LegacyGT007

Thanks for the information. Now I know where to go when I'm in that area.

Where abouts are you getting it that high? I can only find 65% near me in Dutchess County. 

I have the clean sweep system and I want to be able to add extras in the near future. 

I have a 220 amp alternator to power everything. Also I did a diode modification on the feed (center wire) back to the ecu. It tricks the ecu into raising the alternator charge voltage .6 Volts or so higher due to voltage drop across the diode.

I was looking for replacements for my Alpine speakers that were blown and came across very positive reviews. I didn't need much, so I gave them a try. Definitely good for the price and with the clean sweep they sound very clear and responsive. 

Sounds like you guys are into your audio. I've been running a JL audio clean sweep with a 300W 4 channel Crutchfield AMP. I installed CT Sounds Meso 6-5-3 way 500W component speakers. They sound decent for the price. It's good enough for me. Personally I prefer to do performance upgrades over audio.

I would test the positive from the power wire to car body. You should get the 12v.

Definitely a continuity test will tell you the resistance or voltage of the wire. Any switches in between? 

You could always repair them. 

Probably blew the power transistors/FETS.

I brought 15 gallons my from the gas station down the road from me. I was directed to only have a 1/4 tank of 93 and to bring 15 gallons with me. They pumped out the remaining 93 before adding the E.

I wish it was that way here, but being further North the E content drops. 

Ethanol Final should be correct. The best I get here is 65%

I'm trying to keep as much torque as possible. I'm at 9.0 compression with +1mm GSC oversized valves. The whole top end is GSC, even the Beehive Springs. 

Yes it was tuned at EFI by Calvin Dotson. Back in March 2021. Kept the tune safer. It's a hybrid MAF/SD. 

I run E65. It's the best I can get in the Poughkeepsie area. 

As for fueling, I want to eliminate any issue that may be affecting my fueling. I always plan for the future. Two pumps are like backups to eachother. If I have one that fails, I always have a backup to get home. I'm far from done with the mods. I have almost everything I need, just not the time

They absolutely do. I chose GSC S1s. Not sure if I want to go to S2s. I enjoy the mid-range area of the curve, especially the torque in the beginning of the mid-range.  

I heard good things about the BNRs. I'm going to upgrade to ID 1700s because my ID1300Xs were at 90% duty. I've since added a second 450 walley and still have to install my 8AN feed line and 6AN return. Flirting with the possibility of putting in the xona rotor 6157S and see what I can make with a .82 hotside. The Green has a .57 hotside but they are both 61lb turbos. My curiosity is killing me.

Sonic cleaning works well. 

I'm just a bit obsessed with making sure everything is at peak performance. I don't want something simple I missed undo all the hard work and $ spent.

Glad you get to enjoy your car.

Btw...what turbo you running again? I'm on a FP Green HTZ with the 2.5 inlet.

Very Nice! Now you're at my HP level. I would recommend IDs. I sent my injectors to ID and had them flow tested and found one that was more than 3% off the others, so I had them match another to my set to get then all within 1-2% flow of eachother. I had them in for less than 1k miles before they were sent. You never can be too cautious. 

Good luck bro. Hope everthing goes well.

Any luck with your hesitation? I read through your posts. Builds like this always have their growing pains. Have you had your injectors flow tested and matched? What brand are they? Smoke test/pressurized your intake system yet?

I would upgrade your whole engine bay with 6AN and parallel fuel setup. I built and set up my fuel lines. 

I attached my dyno sheet just for reference as to where my set-up got me. I see you are a fellow NYer. 

Roger. Thanks for the update.

I'm interested in the wiring harness if you still have it. 

Got a big whiff of oil burning after a drive today. Went poking around and realized the banjo bolt on the rear passenger head is leaking. I removed the screen and replaced washers about 4k miles ago.

 

Is it possible to snug up that bolt without removing turbo? Not sure if there is access from the bottom, going to check it out tomorrow.

Yes you can get to it without pulling the turbo. I just went through this recently. You would have to remove your intercooler and heat shield around the turbo. After that there is a small bracket from the turbo to the block that you can remove. Then you should have the clearance to get to the bolt. A 17mm wrench should fit in there without too much interference. I used a ratcheting one because it's easier. It took me several times to snug it down enough without leaking. Make sure you have new copper washers.