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amichalski81

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Posts posted by amichalski81

  1. 4 hours ago, creep_nu said:

    if you're keen at all to do it yourself, even if you buy 6 new coils, you're looking at what...25% of the price of what the dealership is charging?  hang on to the known replaced coils in case another one dies(they *are* wear items after all), and keep your fingers crossed.  if you're not sure which coil is going bad you can get your codes read at autozone or what-have-you for free, or buy a $5 bluetooth OBDII adapter and download the free Torque app on android to scan codes.

     

    if you're not mechanically inclined, an indie shop will be able to change all of the packs for cheaper than whomever replaced the one and 6 plugs for $1400

     

    if it was the same coil going bad each time then that's a completely different topic and would start down the rabbit hole of diagnostics, but if it's a different cylinder each time i'd be very surprised if it's anything other than just parts wearing out over time.  

    I worked at an auto shop out of high school for a few years but cars from the late 80's & early 90's are way different than today. i can surely do it myself, it's the diagnosing that is the problem. but maybe i can use an autozone and have the codes read.  

  2. On 6/5/2023 at 7:25 PM, ToolTime said:

    that's a really crazy price, they are taking you for a ride. Go to a different shop. You can get a NGK coilpack for $75 (the company who manufactures the coils for Subaru). Spark plugs are $15 a piece or less, and accessing both is very easy. 45-1hr of labor time.

    I'd expect to pay a fraction of what they charged you. :(

    I could buy the coil pack but i have no way of knowing which coil is bad. unless I am replacing every wire to each spark plug. 

  3. On 6/3/2023 at 3:10 PM, silverton said:

    It's probably the ECM.

    Please expand on this? Is this something  i can request them to check? the more info the better. 

    i also stand corrected - it was 3 times in 7 years the one time it wasn't the ignition coil - it was the OCV (oil control valve) yet the car reacted and ran the exact same way as when the coil went bad the 3 times. engine runs with a miss, stumbles and has zero acceleration or power. 

    thanks 

  4. Guess what felllas .... this past week it happened AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!! another ignition coil went bad and it was another $1400 to replace 1 coil and all 6 spark plugs. WTF at this point? this shouldn't be a repeat issue 4 times in 7 years! 

    the service manager gave me a phone number to call subaru relating to this repeat problem and she said they might give me coupons for $$$ off of services? wtf is that going to do for me when i'm experiencing this issue every 18 months or so? 

  5. If the all the coils are all rusty then it can make sense to replace them all rather then have coils fail one by one of over a relatively short period of time.

     

    Coils rusting is a common issue for this generation. It looks like this issue happened in 2018 for 2012 model year car. The car was 6-7 years old at that time (depending on if it was an early 2012 or late 2012). This is a little early for coil failures but not unheard of. It has been 4 years since that fix. This is really early for additional coils failures. Your either missing the plastic under pan tray to keep the salt and road off the underside of the engine and/or the mechanic used cheap aftermarket coils.

     

    you think they would say it is a common issue for this generation, but i guess if you do why would people buy the car then.

     

    I have had this fixed at the dealer all 3 times, so if there is a pan tray underneath, hopefully the mechanic put it back.

     

    And, to answer the question 2 posts up, i am only doing 1 at a time because $300 is easier to swallow 1 by 1 than $1600 all replaced just to happen again in 5 years

  6. would you Believe I had this AGAIN! today I went to lunch and the same damn thing happened again! this would make it the 3rd TIME I have gotten all these warning lights!!!

    1st time as you can read from my posts in this thread was a Cyl 4 misfire and all coils needed to be replaced. the 2nd time this happened the dealer said it was an oil pressure sensor or something like that. I would have to check through my bills/paperwork for the exact diagnosis. but now today a 3rd time????

     

    WTF IS WRONG WITH THIS CAR? I think it might be time to get a new freaking car!! this is HIGHLY ANNOYING that this will be the 3rd time for the same issue or possible issue.:mad::mad::mad:

     

    A misfire on cyl 3 now! how many times is this going to happen? twice in 6 years i have had a misfire and all coils replaced! this is painful to own a car you can't trust

  7. i just rec'd these warnings this morning and the car is running extremely rough and stumbling. the owners manual says to not drive but i have to get to work & then get to dealer how the F are you not supposed to drive? i have had this prior when it winds up being the gas cap. but i never had the stumble before.

     

    would you Believe I had this AGAIN! today I went to lunch and the same damn thing happened again! this would make it the 3rd TIME I have gotten all these warning lights!!!

    1st time as you can read from my posts in this thread was a Cyl 4 misfire and all coils needed to be replaced. the 2nd time this happened the dealer said it was an oil pressure sensor or something like that. I would have to check through my bills/paperwork for the exact diagnosis. but now today a 3rd time????

     

    WTF IS WRONG WITH THIS CAR? I think it might be time to get a new freaking car!! this is HIGHLY ANNOYING that this will be the 3rd time for the same issue or possible issue.:mad::mad::mad:

  8. i have this same issue, clicking when the AC is on ( only in summer ) and blowing the front vents- it's so freaking loud i thought it was an issue with my speedometer cable the 1st time i heard it. right under steering column.

    so when i have AC on thru front face vents it just clicks away over and over- i can climate control on face and feet and it goes away. not the best spot to be in while in blazing summer heat.

    or i can put the climate control on defrost & feet and it goes away completely.

    it's been 3 years of dealing with this, not paying $1500 for dealer to fix, don't have space to DIY and remove the dash completely.

    maybe one nice day, not 90 degrees out i can jump under the dash to see if i can see actuator arm, but i'm not too worried about it since it does (knock on wood) still work correctly and my best option to drown out the clicking is to turn up the radio volume.

    just annoying that Subaru knows it's an issue they should fix for free - its their $hitty parts that stopped or partially stopped working correctly.

  9. Did they swap the cylinder 4 coil with another one to make sure the misfire followed the coil? It's not uncommon for coils to rust out and stop working, but they're expensive enough that I'd want to make sure it was the coil and not a plug or injector first.

     

    i can ask today when i pick it up but i am sure that the service tech wouldn't know if the technician did that test or such.

  10. I didn't read through this whole thread, since I am searching it while at work on my phone. But is there a button combination to turn off full auto /auto? I don't want my climate controls on auto but I can't find anything to turn it off. I have a2013 legacy. If it is in this thread please just let me know, I'll look through this later when I get home.

    Thanks

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