DSTG

Hello all. Long story short, I'm trying to figure out if I have my original transmission installed after a shop did a reverse gear replacement. 2010 Legacy GT, US version.

 

Problem is, what's installed right now is painted gray and the original wasn't, and I don't know if it's common practice for the shop to put a layer of paint whenever they take apart and rebuild a transmission, or if instead of actually ordering and installing the parts they listed, they just found it easier to put another transmission in from some other source. They had the car for a couple months waiting on parts.

 

From what I understand is that there *should* be a VIN number on the driver's side of the transmission somewhere. I don't know if this is supposed to be etched or stamped in, or on some plate they it's on that may very well have been removed or painted over. Does anyone have a pic or a moment to have a peek at their untampered 6MT?

 

I know "call the shop and ask them." Not really an option right now. They are so far pretty resistant to backing up their work, and on top of that, refuse to actually go on a test drive with me in the car, as they claim there's no clutch slipping, when it clearly is in 3rd-6th gear from around 3000 rpm. So, I'm not interested in more of their BS. Ultimately, I intend to just take them to court for a refund since they refuse to warranty their work. Thanks in advance.

Anyone ever change (not update or anything, just replace oem with oem) their hood struts? I can't figure out how to remove the rod and from the mount to put the mounts on the new strut. Everything I find says something about either a retaining clip or pin, but there's no such thing on these. I've tried prying and looking for some kind of index on the ball bit to no avail.

Did you get around to this yet? You posted a while ago so I'm assuming you did, but fi you haven't and still have Q's, hit me up. I installed my Pioneer 4200nex a few years ago, plus Amp and Sub with no prior experience with great success. Super clean install that included a back-up cam with a constant power relay (really overkill), the steering control switches, parking brake chip, and tapping into the factory aux jack. Last week I upgraded to the Pioneer 8500nex because it upgraded a few things about the unit, as well as added built-in Nav. Removed the whole dash to route the GPS antenna to keep things clean.

I second starter. I did mine about 2 years in and it didn't make any more noise until about last year. Simple job and easy to put back together. As you're looking down from the front, It's on the back left (passenger's) side. 2 Bolts holt it in. Two bolts hold the body together. Something like 3 or 4 satellite gears in there. I just used normal high temp lithium grease if I remember right. Pretty hard to mess up if you're at all a do-it-yourself type.

Won't the magnets cause damage to the phone?

also, how did you wire the charging cord?

This is a really really cool idea, I just kinda wanna know what else you did to get it to work

 

Nope. Look at how many mounts are magnet based anymore. They haven't messed up any of my phones, nor those of my buddy's. The belief that magnets ruin electronics comes from the way data used to be stored and written on things like magnetic strips, floppy discs, and in the case of storage, hard drives. Solid state memory, such as micro sd cards are pretty much unaffected. Consider that there are magnets in tablet and phone flip cases that tell the devices when the cover has been opened, or laptops that have magnets along the edges in lieu of latches.

I need to do this also...my wife hates the clutch engagement in this car! She is the one who actually taught me how to drive a stick ha ha ha

 

Yeah....about that...We're going to have to go ahead and revoke your man card now...

So this morning I finally changed out my headlight bulbs (had the originals in there, and they were noticeably dimmer than when new) - read some of the posts about taking off the bumper, etc. and decided to follow what's in the manual first, then would pull the bumper if I had do. Was expecting to be all cut up and bloody from doing it the hard way, but was pleasantly surprised - I think I know where folks who have had troubles have gone wrong.

 

First, for the first time you try, I would lift the front of the car and take off the front wheels - probably not necessary, but it gives you space.

 

Next - pull the pop-its from the fenderliner - pull the three along the bottom that hold it to the bumper, then undo the two little ones that hold it to the undercover, then undo the large one inside the wheel well and one on the front inner surface of the wheel well liner (I marked the ones to remove on the figure)

 

Now pull the fenderliner out from under the fender, and fold it inwards out of the way (easiest to do if you grab and the front and sort of slide it backwards - there are two metal "hooks" on the edge of the fender you need to lift it up and over) - you don't want to be shy here - make sure it's out of the way (it might not stay there, so you'll need to hold it when you are in there)

 

You'll now have a clear view of the back of the headlights - you want to be reaching straight back, rather than from down below - I think that's where folks go wrong - not pulling the mudguard back enough, then reaching up from below to get to the headlight.

 

Uncsrew the dust cover over the bulb (it only turns about an eighth of a turn) - now you can clearly see the bulb.

 

Remove the connector (it pulls straight off)

 

Remove the metal clip (the clip releases from the left side - you push the end down a bit and it releases from the latch)

 

Pull out the headlight bulb - now look at the back of the headlight at where the bulb goes - the bulb only goes in one way - note where the key is, so that you can put the bulb back in properly.

 

Insert the new bulb (make sure you don't catch the clip) - it should seat flush with the light housing and not rock around. Once you are confident it's flush, pull the clip back over it (push it down to engage it on the hook) then look to make sure it's seated properly

 

Plug in the harness

 

replace the dust cover

 

put the fenderliner back

 

Done! now do the next side.

 

Took me about 10 minutes per side, and I was taking my time - as with almost all repairs, having the room to work is key in getting this done easily. First time out, give yourself as much room as you can - once you know what you need to do, you can try working with less room. I think you could do it without removing the wheels (just turning them) so maybe next time, I'll do it that way.

 

Just don't do this when it's cold outside. Fevrer doesn't flex week and you'll end up with a cut in it off of one of the molding corners about 1/3 if the way up from the bottom. I think it was only high 40's F when it happened to mine.

One of the two turns off the gear indicator on the manual transmission models if I remember correctly, along with the shift arrows (which I have never seen come on). I think the other one turns off the pre-start gauge sweep, maybe...

 

Right on both counts. Thanks buddy. Any chance you know what the 3rd option inthe headlight/trip meter button trick is? 1st is mpg adjust, 2nd is outside temp, 3rd...?

Uh, so when you have the key in ACC (not ignition) and you tap through the trip meter button, you'll get A, B, and then 1 and 2, which are by default on. You can turn it off by holding the trip button, but I didn't notice anything different. Anyone know what these values are?

So do you really have to drive as go fast before stopping then follow procedure?

 

lol, no... you don't even have to turn the engine on. What it means is to do the steps quickly.

Does this procedure work on other subes?

"Go fast...ignition on

turn headlights on

hit trip meter 5 times

headlights off

hit trip meter 5 times

headlights on

hit trip meter 5 times

 

Now you can adjust the MPG reading on the first option screen. Default is zero I set mine to -2 and its much closer."

 

Ok, so, pretty neat, I'll get some reall numbers on my next few gas stops to adjust. So, the first value "1" that you can change from -10 to +10, is MPG, the second value "2", adjust the outside temp +/- 3 degrees... Haven't been able to figure out what that third value is. Anyone have any ideas? What is it turning on/off?