funnyman06

Just picked up a Borla catback for the outback. The invidia I had was AWFUL, your ears bleed when in the car and your brain was actively scrambled. Luckily I had saved the stock exhaust but it wont pass inspection, rear flanges at the mufflers are bowed and its a pretty significant exhaust leak. Plus there is a hole in one of the mufflers. Fingers crossed she doesn't drone on the H6 Wagon. Thanks to @chestercopperpot for the exhaust.

Thanks for this!! Had this exhaust on my old LGT back in the day. Time to get this going on the MT Swapped H6 Outback. 

On 4/26/2023 at 3:09 AM, Febreze Mee said:

What?! Is this documented somewhere?? What is the 5MT case number that you used? 
 

I think it was recently that I read on Outback.org that "most Subaru transmission bolt up to most Subaru blocks..." it was just a matter of working out the kinks (i.e. parts, fitment, etc.). 
 

I know that the 2nd Gen Crosstrek, and 2015+ 6MTs bolt right up to the EJ253s and EJ257s. 
 

I would really like to know everything about your swap!

 

Its not really documented. I used the drivetrain from a 2005 LGT ( rear diff, drive shaft, 5MT ). All my CVs worked just fine in the manual car. Being a 2005, this was probably the easiest year to swap as they were basically the same throughout the world. 

I bought the MT transmission connector from iWire and adapted the T9 connector to the 5EAT connector. This got my Neutral safety switch and reverse lights to the TCM connector under the dash, and that gave me a straight shot to the ECU. In the AT cars, the TCM gives the ECU the start permissive and it triggers the reverse light relay. So with some quick jumpers I was able to get that all working as intended. 

In the center console I had to short the key lock solenoid switch, this usually came from being in P on the AT shifter. Then I could release the key from the ignition. 

I then reprogrammed the ECU with a EDM version of an H6 MT car, killed the few codes I didn't need and BAM, it seems everything is working as intended. No CAN errors, cruise works, high lift works, AVCS works. Not sure if I had any readiness monitors yet, but that's my next investigation. 

Hardest part was doing the mechanical work on my back in the garage. The 5EAT is HUUUGE and HEAVY (I'd guess 300lbs), and I had to make an adaptor between the 5EAT transmission bracket and the 5MT transmission bracket. I did this differently than most, but so far it seems to be holding up? I don't plan on doing any clutch dumps so its likely fine. 

 

 

4 hours ago, kzr750r1 said:

Curious why you didn't go for a 6MT? Bummer the seal is leaking. Never fun going back a couple steps.

Because they are expensive haha, also I had no idea what it would take it actually make it work, just a rough idea of my path. 

Finished tuning my 5MT swapped LL Bean. Now just on the hunt for the correct 3.0R Spec.B cluster from England. Also my 5MT output seal is leaking now, and my exhaust is bumping the original 5EAT crossmember ( which makes no sense because it fit fine before. 

 

 

24 minutes ago, SubOperator said:

Sounds great! I just found 5MT shifter poly bushings that I never used (Rallitek I believe), which you can have along with the whole package.

PM me so we can talk about details. Btw I am in EG now, not in Richmond. Close to Exeter/EG line, Shippee Rd/South Rd area.

 

Sounds good, next I need to find a pedal assembly and a lgt 5mt cluster. 

Hey buddy! I'll take that off your hands and it can sit next to the invidia exhaust and lgt doors I still haven't used yet haha. 

What color carpet is the stealthbox? Any photos?

I have an invidia catback i would be willing to trade for the SPT in RI. Do you have any photos of the SPT? Also do you know if its a V1 or V2?

Did you end up removing the dash?

 

I think the best mufflers for the obxt are the AVO for a fairly subtle rumble. But $$$ and hard to find.

 

I just found some in AUS, they arnt too crazy $$$. A little more money than the nameless and probably alot less drone. Hmmmm.... I'm also waiting for raptor superchargers to get more headers in stock, looking like mid to late July.

 

I did not end up having to take the dash out. You can drop everything below the drivers side dash and get to the lower two screws, and then pop out the upper pocket/dash vents and the top screw is right there. It took a while to figure out what all I needed to undo but it really wasn't that bad.

Got the drivers side actuator done, it was a bear and a half but totally doable. Just need to take everything apart haha. Also picked up some used nameless 5in tailpipes for the outback installed. It's a little more droney in the wagon than I'd like, but I've been told it's not bad outside the car. I just wanted something subtle. Now i wait for the next round of parts!

I'm telling you I was very happy with my experience there. They will have any future business from me.

 

 

 

I think I'll be replacing my cracked dash soon.

 

Now you have me considering a brace. I will be getting ss lines and LGT rotors and pads in the future. I've never heard anything bad about StopTech pads. Do any of yall have experience with EBC (specifically their Yellowstuff)? I know they produce aggressive pads (thinking of Yellowstuff). What are yalls thoughts?

 

Im also running 4 pot / 2 pots so that might help the pedal feel some too. But the stoptechs are just very very dusty. I've had no experience with EBC pads or rotors.

driver side? may have to remove the dash I think..

 

 

Does any of you know which brake pads would provide the most initial bite while being somewhat easy on the wallet? for standard outback oem rotor size btw.

 

I had some stoptech pads that felt really good. Honestly through, when I did the stainless lines and master cylinder brace it made the biggest change in pedal feel. Just be aware the stoptech pads dust alot.

 

I hope I dont have to tear the dash apart to get to the drives side actuator. If that's the case I'm gonna replace all of them haha. I did the vent mode select previously from the passenger side and it was a nightmare.

Yesterday I got my cobb rear swaybar installed on the outback with some new moog end links. What a difference! Also I loved the whiteline swaybar bushings, they are fuzzy on the inside and don't require any grease.

 

The day before I swapped out what I suspect might be a bad charcoal canister, and I think a leaky fuel pump assembly. I was getting a strong smell of gasoline every time the car was filled up. Fingers crossed this fixes that.

 

Next up is the drivers side HVAC damper actuator. Lost all heat on the drivers side, put the AC in self test mode and found the drivers side actuator is stuck in cooling. That should be a fun job.

You can get them from japan for around $400.

Sounds like I should grab them, and probably the floor mats too. PM sent

what sway bars are those?

Sent you a PM.

Luckily that is one of the easiest Subaru parts to swap out on the H6. Both pulleys can be swapped in a matter of minutes with the right tools on hand.

Yeah, stock injectors, upgraded fuel pump and process west top mount, turbosmart recirc valve.

 

Edit: Found the dyno sheet.

Can't believe I still have not changed mine since early 2010. I should probably not say that...

 

 

As for me, been learning a LOT about tuning. I am enjoying it. As a result, slowly adjusting my tune going from a stage 2 vf40 to a vf52 jmp. I can tell top end is different. I like it so far. Just running on 13psi max.

 

I had a VF52 on my LGT and ran ~20 PSI, made 314 at the wheels. Enjoy that turbo.

 

I am also playing around with something else...

Found a torn boot on the passenger side front CV. :-(

Looking for a used Borla Legacy GT catback in the Rhode Island/Mass/CT region.

PM about rear sway brackets coming

Ill have to see if i can steal the car for a bit and grab a video. Its a very different sound than yours was and it wasn't consistent. It was a very loud almost knocking sound under part load.