adrenalinecrisis

Thread revive?

 

http://i.imgur.com/NNEa4lb.jpg

 

First off, this is a sick setup. So much so that I have a set of those same rpf1's sitting in my basement waiting to be mounted . I see that you are on Koni's and swifts. What camber were you running? Did you have to roll all 4 corners? Pull the fenders at all? I'm running H&R's so I'm a little higher. Just trying to plan for what kinda work I'm gonna have to do to make them fit.

Clean the inside where the pins go. I thought the same thing and i turned out to be my maf sensor.

 

I have actually tried to clean it out with electrical contact cleaner, but its difficult to get in there and scrub anything. All the connectors look to be in good shape, no corrosion at all. The MAF sensor is only about a year old so thats it good shape as well.

I've been chasing a rich condition problem for a while now, and I finally figured out what is causing it. It turns out I have a poor connection between my MAF sensor and the connector on the wiring harness. The car will start running really rich, but goes back to normal if I jiggle the MAF plug a little bit.

 

It would be fine for a while, but it's nearly a daily problem now. Has anybody ever had to replace the wiring harness connector before? If so, where do you even buy the connector? I'm a decent mechanic on mechanical problems, but not the greatest with electrical issues.

 

Is it possible to replace the plug without soldering on a new plug from say a salvaged wiring harness?

Payment sent!

So I'm looking at doingng a swap deal on a spec b trans. Does this package include everything I need?

 

Legacy Spec B Transmission

Non DCCD Tranny (no need for a diff controller)

Cusco Tarmac Center Diff

Stock or Carbonetic 1 way front Diff

Factory Shifter and Mounts

 

 

R180 Rear End

STI Axles

STI Spindles

 

He says he has the necessary gear to mount the trans. But what axles/driveshaft do I need to use the r180 rear? From my understanding the sti axles won't work.

Yeah I figured that part. Is it possible to have my tranny rebuilt for a reasonable cost or is sourcing a used one a better choice? I know new parts can get stupid expensive depending on what's wrong. Whatever I do I have to have a shop perform the work, I just don't have the resources to handle it myself. Hell maybe now's the time for a 6 speed

You can say that about any part of the car.

 

 

It's a gear tooth. And your clutch is probably borked which is what is causing the shifting problems.

 

 

Stop driving the car..... unless you don't care.

 

Are you referring to me about the clutch? What could be wrong with it? I do have a really stiff pedal, but I had the car tuned a month ago and my tuner didn't bat an eye about it except it being stiff (ACT heavy duty clutch with 15k on it).

 

This problem existed when I had it tuned and they didn't see/hear any issues (This was before I changed trans fluid and saw the tooth) If there was a clutch issue, why would it only happen when the engine is run for the first minute after starting? Wouldn't I be seeing issues all the time?

 

I understand driving with a broken tooth isn't the best thing in the world to do. I just know its weaker now. I'm not trying to disagree with you, just trying to learn how different things in the tranny/clutch could interact with each other if issues develop.

Looks like part of a gear tooth and a chunk of the big center diff retaining ring thing. When I took the back plate off my trans the center diff retaining ring clip thing was wedged in at an odd angle and was missing about 2 inches of material....

 

I was thinking it was gear tooth at first, but its really skinny. It still could be. I'm still torn on whether or not I should have the tranny pulled to find the problem, or just proceed as is and pull it if the problem worsens, or other issues pop up. Its baffling to see chunks that big come out and not have any normal condition driving issues.

 

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1600x1200q90/32/0fgk.jpg

So I have been having a hard time getting into gear for the past couple months. It showed up when the temps dropped below 45 degrees. I just assumed it was my fluid being thick. I can't get into any gear when I first turn the car on. But I can when I turn the car off. So i've been putting it into reverse, turn the car on, back out of parking spot, turn car off, shift to first, turn car on and drive away. This problem would go away after a 100 yards of driving.

 

So I finally changed my transmission fluid to Subaru Extra-s. Transmission shifts a bit better, but i'm still having the same problem getting into gear. The downside, this is what I found when I pulled my plug... My fluid was also quite glittery which is never good. The car is still shifting fairly smoothly, just hard to get into gear when the car is cold. It doesn't make any strange noises and it feels pretty good driving around. Any idea what those chunks could be off of?

 

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/833/n4uc.jpg

 

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/543/qbqu.jpg

Update: I cleaned my throttle body and no improvement

TYPE OF STUTTER/STUMBLE

Steady throttle/Increasing throttle/Both: stuttering from 2-3k, nearly every throttle position

 

MODS

Intake: Cobb short ram intake

Exhaust: Catless up-pipe, catted downpipe, catback

Engine: EJ257 Swap w/ CP pistons; 10k on build.

Fuel: stock

Turbo: stock

Engine Management: Cobb stage 2 map (OTS map w/intake)

Tuner and revision of tune(if you don't mind): n/a

 

MAINTENANCE

Sensors changed:knock sensor (no change)

Plugs changed: plugs changed; were very white from a lean condition. from leaking turbo inlet? (no change)

Coil Packs changed: n/a

 

OTHER SYMPTOMS

Check Engine Light: none

Etc: Found torn inlet, leaking bpv and tmic. Replaced inlet w/OEM, replaced bpv w/OEM, bulletproofed tmic which fixed the minor leak. pressure tested to 10psi with no leaks.

 

RESULTS

What has and hasn't worked for you: The torn inlet was a big problem, but stuttering still is present. Nothing has worked at this point. I am experiencing a lot of feedback knock at low throttle/low rpm which doesn't make sense. I have no knocking under WOT. I've check probably a half dozen times for something loose or bouncing around to cause the knock, but I haven't found anything.

 

If something worked, how long has it been working for: Nothing has worked at this point. I've been suggested to replaced my upstream o2 sensor regardless of having no codes; does that seem like a good idea? please help!

any options besides accesstuner race? I have a mac and they only have it for pc.

Needs a firm ware update? What version AP?

 

I updated it to the most recent update a week ago. Its a V2 accessport.

Maybe you guys can help me out. I just bought an 05 LGT that already had an accessport and is running stage 2. I am currently trying to get an e-tune, but for some reason the accessport wont let me install the new map to my car. The map is highlighted gray while all other maps are highlighted white. It says its locked to serial number 14800 which is mine... Why won't it let me load the map thats for my accessport?

Ordered!