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hateitorloveit

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Posts posted by hateitorloveit

  1. 2 hours ago, SoobyDoobyDoo said:

    Are you able to change modes? Ie, can you switch from defrost to vents to feet? Mine has been doing that and recently, my driver side actuator went out. I cannot switch between the different modes. If yours is only blowing out hot air. It’s probably one of the ones on the passenger side. 

    yeah it's only blowing hot air and the mode switching works fine.

  2. 1 hour ago, buppus said:

    Do you have the automatic climate control or the manual?

    If yours is automatic, the drivers side actuator only controls the air mix (hot/cold) on that side. There is a second air mix servo on the passenger side. If by "All my vents" you mean just the drivers side while the passenger side works normally, then it's probably the actuator. If both the drivers and passengers sides are blowing only hot air, and both will switch vent modes normally, it could be that both actuators failed at the same time, but that is unlikely and there is probably another reason, such as leaked refrigerant or your AC pump failed which is common on this platform.

     

    With regard to replacement without removing the instrument cluster, yes it is possible but you will probably at least have to unscrew it and rotate it out of the way so that your arm can pass through the opening, as the cubby hole opening is probably too tight to get in there and also successfully unscrew the top bracket screw on the actuator.

    My AC cluster has a button that says Auto on it but I can also manually adjust the driver and passenger side separately so not sure if that means I have auto. I mean every vent in the car blows only hot air regardless of the temperature set. Yes, all of the vents switch modes normally. Hmmm ok, I will have someone check into the AC pump failure. I have an appointment scheduled at the stealership in a few days and they're telling me there is a $180 fee just to diagnose what issue it is. 9 months ago I got all the refrigerant recharged so I doubt that is the issue. 

  3. All of my vents are blowing hot air. Could this still be an issue with this actuator? My car was in storage over the winter and I was hearing the intermittent clicking noise from that actuator before I last used it. Is it possible to swap the driver side actuator without removing the gauge cluster? I've removed the dash a couple times but wasn't able to remove it without removing the steering wheel first. I think some people have different versions of the Legacy with telescoping steering wheels that make this task easier but mine doesn't have that.

  4. 11 hours ago, hateitorloveit said:

    Can someone verify that these are the 2 parts (clutch fork and pivot pin) that are recommended to replace if I was to use the OEM Exedy set? 

    I see other parts like the clutch (part 30534) spring as well in this list of parts...

    image.thumb.png.62e9431d5a68d8a8ce4576d9c8177c8c.png

  5. I've been reading that when removing the dual mass flywheel you need to remove the existing flywheel bolts with a Torx Plus T50 bit like this... http://www.mcmaster.com/#54305a34/=2r6vug

    Does anyone have any experience locating a bit like this from another site?

    I'll then place the 8 new flywheel bolts (part number 800410020) on the new flywheel. 

    Referencing thread - https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1805288

     

  6. 5 minutes ago, subisubisu said:

    I don't pay much mind to how much or how little money I think anyone else may have, but I have run across a few instances of counterfeit merchandise on Amazon in the past year or three in various merchandise categories, enough so that I would prefer to get critical performance things from confidence-inspiring specialists.

    makes sense, autohance seems to have good reviews although I've never used them.

  7. 5 minutes ago, subaru-tech said:

    Depending on hourly rate, book time is around 7 hours. If your going to do an exedy clutch, get one for a 06 wrx and get the 06 wrx flywheel. Get rid of the dual mass flywheel. You will need tonget new flywheel bolts as well. The dual mass flywheel is expensive.

    Any reason why you wouldn't select the OEM kit recommended above?

    https://www.autohance.com/exedy-oem-replacement-clutch-kit-fjk1001fw.html

    It has the single mass flywheel included.

    I'm currently being quoted at $1,100 by a local body shop and $1400 for the local Subaru dealer for the install without parts.

     

  8. 2 hours ago, KZJonny said:

    If your flywheel is burned or damaged, you'd probably be better off swapping to a single mass flywheel. (SMFW) Our cars came with a Dual Mass Flywheel (DMFW).

    It's either tricky or impossible to machine a DMFW, depending on the equipment the shop has and the level of expertise. And you can probably get a single for not a whole lot more than the price of machining your stock one. The Spec clutched discussed will require a SMFW. (08+-? WRX will fit.)

    There will a slightly difference in how they drive, but most people seems to prefer the SM anyway. It can eliminate some of the "juddering" you get while engaging the clutch, particularly at low speeds. In contrast, it may may shift more sharp, since there isn't a layer of softer material sandwiched between the two main plates, like in a DMFW. This is all subjective, and a matter of personal taste.

    You'll find out what's going on inside when they open it, but be prepared for it to be the clutch fork, or pivot, which are known to fail in our cars. Hopefully it is not the throwout bearing failing, which can cause damage to the transmission snout. (This is fixable with a specific kit, research as needed if it comes to that....)

    If you're all stock, then an Exedy OE style clutch (OE clutch is made by Exedy, so I am told, and buying from aftermarket will likely be cheaper that from the Subaru dealer.) will be fine, or the equivalent WRX type if you choose to go to the SMFW. Spec Stage 1 would be a tasty upgrade, but more money than an OE type part.

    Thoughts on these kits?

    https://www.amazon.com/CLUTCH-PRO-KIT-FLYWHEEL-SUBARU-IMPREZA/dp/B01M5F1362/

    https://www.amazon.com/ClutchMaxPRO-Performance-Chromoly-Flywheel-Compatible/dp/B08GGBG8WX/

     

  9. 2 hours ago, KZJonny said:

    To give the guys at Spec even more credit, the fellow I talked to specifically told me not to get a Stage 2. Something about the friction material not lasting long in a daily driver, since it is better suited to track use? I honestly forget the coversation details, but it had to do with the material specfically.

    He recommended the Stage 1 or Stage 2+. (So this agress with you Max). Just saying for stock hp/torque, or even a fair little bit more, either will do the job well, according to Spec.

    I went with Stage 1 mainly because I'd like as light a pedal feel as possible, (I know the clutch isn't the ONLY factor there...) and I were to do something stupid at some point, I prefer the idea of a fairly inexpensive, easily replaceble part being the weak link in my drivetrain. Since everything else is stock right now, I'd rather toast my clutch than say.... the trans.

    Interesting, yeah I'm leaning towards things remaining as stock as possible as they've been since it was driven off the lot. I'll look into purchasing a Stage 1. Would you recommend to replace the flywheel or just get it resurfaced? There is a lot of noise coming from my clutch/flywheel assembly and they won't know until they take it apart. They suspect something is broken inside. 

  10. 1 hour ago, SpecDubC said:

    Figured I would update with my excellent results aside from just missing led illumination on the button backlighting for the climate controls.  I thought I read a solution in here for that and I'm wondering if it had something to do with the ribbon cable disconnected between the two circuit boards from the EU head unit?

    Also my temp does show up in Fahrenheit not Celsius.  So that was a pleasant surprise. 

    Probably the best option for double din I've seen aside from not painting the black faceplate trim thus far. 

     

    20220816_174349.jpg

    Perhaps read the text in on this page about illumination...

    https://tightfitfab.com/2005-2009-subaru-legacy-gt-outback-jdm-double-din-dual-zone-climate-control-i88-adapter/

  11. On 8/30/2022 at 1:38 PM, hateitorloveit said:

    I'm having an issue with getting the illumination to work. for the HVAC controls and on my head unit.

    After following the instructions, are there any tips anyone can provide to get this to work? 

    this was fixed with simply turning the headlights on. I don't remember that being required with the stock head unit but I guess it's good enough for now.

  12.  I hear a clicking noise behind the driver side of the dash but the diagram in the manual say all the AC actuators are behind the passenger side. 

    The 05 Legacy manual indicates these are the locations of the actuators - 

    image.thumb.png.f09894b9885c1e3f7038f0e1208ee96e.png

    The Subaru parts website has a diagram that I believe indicates the part (circled, Part Number: 72131AG27A) that I will need to replace - 

    image.thumb.png.91be0ce1c7c151e80b89083d36b18a4b.png

    Even if this is the correct part I suspect that I may need to take the dash off to access it. Anyone have experience with this issue with a Gen 4 Legacy?

     

  13. On 8/26/2022 at 7:10 PM, stridermc said:

    What information are you after? It's been awhile since I did mine but you need an i88 adapter https://tightfitfab.com/2005-2009-subaru-legacy-gt-outback-jdm-double-din-dual-zone-climate-control-i88-adapter/

    possibly an i85 adapter https://tightfitfab.com/2005-2009-subaru-legacy-gt-outback-i85-adapter/

    you'll need to trim plastic in order to reroute the hazard switch location

    Understood, thanks.

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