jsalicru

Yea, sorry that I didn't really say something on here, but yes, I have now moved and settled in Austin, TX (it's actually sunny today!!) Basically there are two people that I would trust with the clientele that I had built up. Henry (socalsleeper) is one, and I have another friend down in Chula Vista named Ryan. These guys are both Porsche certified technicians.

The only issue with Ryan is that although he's a brilliant mechanic, he's also quite busy. Between his startup shop (RSR Autosport) and his racing team, he tends to travel a bit.

Nevertheless, if any of you guys have any questions in regards to Henry or Ryan, give me a PM or if you have my number, just call me.

I'll still be available with the same phone # if you want me to consult you with anything as before.

NOW I JUST NEED SOME BUSINESS FROM AUSTIN, TX AREA!!!

some say, his arms are made of coiled adamantium fibers. And that he tops his cereal with nuts and bolts. All we know is, he's called the Jose.

LOL, that was funny. I think I might put that on my sig!

Nice Jose. So you're try to say I don't just torque everything will the bolts snap off... huh... who knew?!?!?

you never know, trust me, you just never know

Hey Jose,

 

Could you add TMIC, and turbo (to bracket to block, etc) torque specs as well?

 

Thanks!

Done, added all those specs too... even the tiny BOV one

This is something that comes up all the time. I get PMs from people asking for information in regards to part numbers and other aspects of exhaust part installation. So, here is a thread with all sorts of information in regards to exhaust parts.

This is for all the DIY people out there... you will do a much higher quality job if you follow the specs below.

Downpipe-to-catback torque spec...........13.0 ft-lbs

Axle-back torque spec ..........................35.4 ft-lbs

Exhaust bracket torque spec ..................26.0 ft-lbs

Transmission bracket torque spec ............26.0 ft-lbs

Downpipe-to-midpipe torque spec ............26.0 ft-lbs

Downpipe-to-turbo torque spec .............. 26.0 ft-lbs

Uppipe-to-turbo torque spec ...................26.0 ft-lbs

Turbo bracket @ up-pipe torque spec .......26.0 ft-lbs

Turbo bracket-to-block torque spec .........24.6 ft-lbs (highly unlikely you will need this one.)

Head-to-manifold torque spec .................29.8 ft-lbs

Manifold-to-crossover pipe torque spec .....26.0 ft-lbs

Manifold-to-uppipe torque spec ...............26.0 ft-lbs

Manifold heatshield torque spec ...............9.6 ft-lbs

Front 02 sensor torque spec ...................22.1 ft-lbs

Rear 02 sensor torque spec ....................15.2 ft-lbs

Intercooler-to-turbo flange torque spec ....11.6 ft-lbs

Intercooler brackets torque spec .............11.6 ft-lbs

By-pass valve-to-intercooler torque spec .. 4.8 ft-lbs

In addition, here are the part numbers for all the exhaust gaskets too.

Head to Exhaust Manifold Gaskets - 2 are required to replace in case you install a header.

14038AA000

Driver's Exhaust Manifold to Crossover Pipe gasket

44022AA160

Crossover Pipe to Pass Exhaust Manifold Gasket

44011FA020

Exhaust Manifold to Uppipe Gasket

44022AA170

Uppipe to turbo Gasket

44022AA150

Turbo to Downpipe Gasket

44022AA180

Downpipe to Midpipe

44011FE000

Flex Joint Gasket (the donut)

44022AA122

If you guys want, I might also include a how-to on UP/DP installation, but frankly, those are a dime a dozen on WRX sites..

More information

Installing Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor

Tools Needed:

• 14mm wrench (possibly 2)
  
• 14mm socket
  
• 12mm socket
  
• 1/8" NPT tap
  
• Various drill bits (11/32, small drill bit for pilot hole, big drill bit for possible hole on heatshield)
  
• Dremel (optional - for heatshield)
  
• Panel popper or flathead screw driver
  
• PB Blaster or equivalent penetrating lubricant
  

1. The routing of the harness is entirely up to the end user.
   
2. A good place to install the sensor is in the “button” of the driver’s side exhaust manifold.
   
3. During more recent testing, it has been shown that the driver’s side of the engine runs higher EGTs than the passenger’s side.
   
4. Carefully lift the front of the car and secure using jack-stands.
   
5. 5. Remove belly pan. There are 3 12-mm bolts in the front and 1 in the rear. There are also 2 plastic tabs on each side of the pan, for a total of 4. There are tab removers available, but a flat head screwdriver will work if one is not available.
   
6. Remove driver’s side exhaust manifold heat shield. This is secured by 3 12-mm bolts.
   
7. Remove the 2 14-mm bolts in that hold the manifold to the crossover pipe. Hold on to that gasket. You will need at least one open-end wrench for this, but two are useful. Ratchet type open-end wrenches are the best.
   
8. Remove the 3 14-mm nuts that hold the manifold in place.
   
9. Locate the little button in between the No. 2 and No.4 exhaust pipe.
   
10. Drill a pilot hole in the middle of the “button”.
    
11. Drill a hole using a 11/32” drill bit. Make sure to use some type of lubricant to cool and help out the bit. Also, regulate the speed so that you can cut into the metal more efficiently. Faster really is not better here.
    
12. Start to tap your thread using the 1/8” NPT tap. Get some help for this as it requires some incredible amount of force. It is typically not recommended to back out of the thread very often when using a NPT tap. And when you think you have gone far enough and hard enough, back it out, clean the threads, and go again a little harder until it REALLY is impossible.
    
13. Clean the threads and the interior of the manifold to remove metal shavings.
    
14. Install the fitting. Use discretion when torquing it down.
    
15. If you plan on re-using the heat shield, do not install the sensor just yet.
    
16. Mark the heat shield in the appropriate location and use either a HUGE bit (bigger than 3/8”) or use a dremel to obtain the desired size.
    
17. Install the manifold back to the engine and crossover pipe. Do not forget the gasket!
    
18. Install heat shield.
    
19. Install sensor. Do not over-tighten.
    
20. Plug sensor harness.
    
21. When starting the car, you might experience some smoke due to the lubricant used during the drilling process. Other than that, check for leaks.
    

hardware stores do not sell performance parts period.

Unpimp Ze Auto!

Haha, actually, that statement there isn't true. You can make a manual boost controller out of plumbing parts. I did it on my FD3 RX7 (a REAL performance car)to tune the pre-spool of the secondary turbo. Worked great.

Also, on some cars, you can use washers to fix the camber.

Note: Formula Mesh ONLY available in 18 x 8 +48

Also, BOXRPWRs car has STi fitment. 18x8.5 +48

Add 18 x 7.5 +43 Gram Light 57RC

Well, I was actually using the mu of the pad a few of them ship with, but I agree with you. I was just trying to easily illustrate how having stock rear pads and a BBK w/ upgraded pads can get vey poor...

 

I will work on this in a little while. Is the code format better or worse?

 

Ted

It is indeed better code format.

Here's a list to use for example:

Project Mu pads.

B-Force, a mild street/track pad has a 0.32~0.42μ

Applicable Rotor Temp: 0~500 deg. Celsius

http://www.mackinindustries.com/md/projectmu/Resources/databforce.gif

Type HC Plus. mostly a street/track pad has a 0.40~0.60μ

Applicable Rotor Temp: (F&R) 0 to 800 deg. Celsius

http://www.mackinindustries.com/md/projectmu/Resources/typehcdata.gif

Level Max 900, a track pad only has a 0.42~0.62μ

Applicable Rotor Temp: 0~900 deg. Celsius

http://www.mackinindustries.com/md/projectmu/Resources/datamax900.gif

Also, 0.5 might be a bit high. I don't think its something that would compare when both pads are under the same temp.

When a track pad has the temperature for 0.5mu a street pad might only had 0.2 due to it being past its efficiency range.

If you look at Project Mu pads you will notice that their street/track pad starts at a mu of 0.4

Basically, there are SO MANY variables when it comes to different types of pads that I really don't think it should come into play in these charts. Hence the idea of setting them up as if ALL the brake setups used the exact same brand and model of pad.

Rotoras are shipped with street pads unless otherwise stated.

My opinion here... Honestly, you should consider doing the ratio with the mu being consistent all around.

AKA, using a constant mu as a control number.

RB apparently expects people to keep stock pads or use one grade lower, however, I don't believe that it is something regularly done. People I know typically use the same type of pads all-around unless they KNOW they need to use different types all around in order to achieve a balance.

What Hawk pad is one step down from HP+?

Ted

HPS.

There's a Ceramic compound too, but I rarely see it available and it seems to be more of a dust-free type of thing than anything.

If we could get mu data on the Hawk pads, we might be able to run the numbers. I've been unsuccessful so far.

Even on HPS pads I'm willing to bet the cold mu is about the same as stock.

. On my STi I could feel a noticeable change in mu when I heated up the pads when I say... got off an offramp.

Kevin hasn't reported any problems to me regarding the braking using HPS all around. I doubt he will change to HP+ up front. He drives with HPS all around on a daily basis.

Of note, I don't think he brakes hard enough at the track to really bring out these problems. Nevertheless, I do plan on suggesting a switch to HP+ before his next track day. This next track event has big straights that will probably really induce some heat on his pads/discs.