tema

I'm fine opening a separate thread for split-case 6mts, but please stop calling them "glass-6mts" unless you have solid evidence why. I think this is part of the reason very few people have tried to use them instead of the STi 6mt. Yes, they aren't built as heavy as the STi 6mt, but I haven't found massive reports of them failing that would support calling them "glass". Please share if you do.

Sorry for "glass"-definition. Split case is definitely more appropriate, but I do think that it must be made clear 6MT split vs. STI as those two are _totally_ different transmissions.

I had 5MT before and some people called it "glass-box/transmission". I thought that it was exaggeration as there were lot of 5MTs with decent amount of power.

Honestly 5MT is not a bad box, but it's much more likely to break comparing to STI-6MT. My 5MT lost bolt in front diff which created a hole in casing. I don't know for sure the history of the car, but it was never "tuned" so we're talking standard power, but possibly abusing driving.

Why I'm so adamant to highlight the difference to STI-box is that the 6MT from STI actually IS really one of the really strong transmissions out there regardless of the brand of the vehicle.

By FAR the biggest improvement in my car has been STI-6MT with diff locks (Suretrac+visco+Suretrac). On asphalt this is not that much of a difference at all, but now winter time it's difficult to overemphasize the difference. Sugar coating for all this is the feel of the shifter in STI 6MT - you just WANT to change the gears as it's so addictive and transmission also feels like it will hold.

Coming into corner on snow or ice (or gravel) - flick the clutch and power slide through. Just simply beautiful and an absolute joy to drive

5MT with centre+rear visco was nothing like this at all.

I suggest to open a new thread for MT5/MT6 NON-STI gearboxes.

This thread is really informative, but really lengthy as well.

Would serve people better if not to confuse glass-6MTs with STI-related ones.

Glad yours is going strong. I chipped a tooth in 2nd gear a couple weeks ago. trans lasted 6 months and 13k miles. 68k miles on the trans rn. Car is running 16psi at 3.5k tapering to 14 by redline on a vf52 with 11 afr targets, stock long block. Trans is out of an 06 sti bought with 55k miles. Have an r160 suretrac in the back that has a 3.54 final drive installed in it. Diff outlasted the trans.

I have now about three years and 40 000km since swap

Trans should have ca. 160000km = 100k miles on it on total

Works very well albeit some "whine" from trans.

According to some Youtube videos STI-6-speed do make some noise normally but not totally sure of this. Noise is more present on certain (low) rpms and seem to be less on higher gears.

How are your transmissions noise wise comparing to 5MT?

Think I compared the FSTI 6MT gearing to the Spec B 6MT and they were the same. FSTI has the lube pump as well, unlike the 08-09 Spec B

Correct!

I have FSTI 2007 as above

Front and Rear LSD are "must have". Not just fancy stuff but actually transform car totally!

Hence Spec B transmission doesn't make sense (to me and many others)

Reading how many ran DCCD in open position pushed me to to FSTI instead of considering (costly) build of DCCD trans in to tall gear option.

Forester STI remains a good option for tall gears.

No DCCD but centre visco could be swapped out for torsen if that's an issue

I've been getting my parts list together for the swap. I am going to attempt to get everything together for early may. The Transmission arrived with the diff, starter, some axles and shifter linkage. Since it's all out of the Forester STi, I am pretty certain the axles and linkage won't fit, so i'll have to source those. I need to look at the transmission closer to see if anything else on the list came included with the trans.

 

Here is the list. I am hoping Tema can chime in with the specifics of the Forester swap.

 

Transmission: JDM Forester STi "C" TY856WL4CC (2004)

Rear Differential: JDM Forester STi R180 Rear Diff

Clutch/Flywheel: Reuse Legacy 5-Speed Clutch/Flywheel (Recently Replaced)

Driveshaft: Legacy 4eat Automatic Driveshaft or 07-09 Legacy Spec-B Driveshaft.

Front Axles: Reuse Legacy 5-Speed Axles and Front Axle Seals

Rear Axles: 07-09 Legacy Spec-B Axles (28421AG03B) Axle Seals (806732200)

Shifter Linkage: 08+ STi or 07-09 Legacy Spec-B

Clutch Fork: 30530AA050

Clutch Release Shaft: 30532AA020

Clutch Slave Cylinder: 30620AA172

Clutch Hose:

Throw-Out Bearing:

6MT Rear Transmission Mount:

Downpipe Support Bracket: 44021FE030

Various Seals:

Various Fluids:

I had no issues to fit FSTi 6-speed with parts mentioned above. I didn't check numbers but I got my PNs from this thread which I mostly double checked.

I Recommend to renew axle seals in gearbox too.

Clutch hose I didn't change but I got complete assembly of slave cylinder together with transmission.

Seriously should consider STi-clutch too if you're above standard power.

Bigger standard clutch was one strong argument for 6-speed and I'm extremely happy with it.

5-speed clutch is a bit so-so while STi-clutch can take some serious torque and is supposed to have good longevity.

Only real problems I had with was aligning new clutch without tool.

I ended up cutting piece of clutch shaft from old damaged gearbox to use as alignment tool.

If I recall correctly:

- Torx head on DMFW because no space around bolt head for hex-bolt

- HEX-head bolt on SMFW because Torx-head is too high and would interfere with pressure plate?

I used a legacy shaft in OB with no spacers and it worked fine. Never had any vibration issues but you are correct its better on like car to like car

Same. I also used a legacy driveshaft on my OBXT. No issues.

I read comments on this and that was the reason I bought driveshaft which was most convenient to get (Legacy). Only once I was installing it I realized how badly it misaligns. Bearing carrier mounting height is totally different.

I'm a marine engineer by profession and I have come across through the years number of incorrect installations that either; "work" or "worked before".

I didn't want to take a risk and issue was sorted out by longer bolts and spacers. Now aligned like factory design it.

Having an extreme misalignment is definitely not good. I know some LGT/OBXT which had to have original driveshaft replaced due to bearing failure.

If you were lucky with this it doesn't matter

but for anyone planning installation I don't recommend increasing chances of things breaking.

I have 2007 JDM STI Forester gearbox.

2004 STI drive shafts (5x100) at rear coupled to Hyundai Elantra CV-joints.

Highly recommended. Read my posts and ask if anything unclear.

4EAT prop shaft is ok, but must be OB to OB, or LGT to LGT

I have LGT shaft in OB and it's doable but needs spacers and longer bolts. No point to do it.

^this. Page 120 on this thread.

Parts for swap ordered. JDM STI Forester transmission and R180 diff. With axles/CV-jointes I'll try 5*110-STI/Hyundai -recipe.

Some good news from Russia for those, who want to get R180 on their B13 legacy but for some reason can't get Spec B axles.

 

We successfully installed R180 on 03' JDM legacy GT(B13 started from 2003 in japan), using pre-5*114 axles from 03' JDM GDB STI(30 splines on both ends of the inner shaft, AFAIK it's the same as US pre-5*114). We used outer CV joints from (you must get mentally ready) hyundai elantra. P/N MEYLE 37-14 498 0000. One car is running them with IHI VF42 for at least 50000 kms without faults, other just got them on.

 

Splines count:

LGT hub - 25

STI inner shaft - 30.

 

Swap is a direct bolt-on, CV joints went in as if they were manufactured for that exact reason.

Don't know the situation with parts in US, but here it's almost impossible to get your hands on used spec B axles, and for new ones you have to wait a month and pay ~$1200.

STI axles are easy to find wherever you want, and usual price is $300 for pair. Meyle CV's are $100 for pair and can be found in any shop.

 

So I did some searching but could not find an example of this set up.

 

Does anyone know if the JDM Forester STi trans and diff have the same dimensions as all other Subaru 6-Speeds? It seems like the perfect combination of Front LSD, Tall 5th and 6th gear, No DCCD. I just have not seen anyone used the SG9 drivetrain in their BP/BL chassis car.

 

I cannot find a USDM Spec-B drivetrain, but there are a few JDM Forester STi Trans @ Diffs on ebay. Has anyone ever attempted it?

Regarding question if 6MT swap was worth it? Absolutely yes!

I originally didn't want to do it as it's a lot of money and 5MT should have been fine for (spirited) daily driver.

Due to problems with 5MT and stronger clutches on them I finally decided to put stop for that. To get strong stock clutch and transmission that should have no reliability issues. Diff locks and taller gearing were very tempting too.

What I didn't know was how ridiculously better and more engaging the gear shift is!

It's such a joy that it's nice to even sit in car and shift while engine is stopped

Other aspect I seriously underestimated is effect from proper diff locks. I've driven a lot of different, even somewhat sporty 4wd cars but never with proper locks in all diffs. I have suretrac front and rear. Centre diff is only visco (JDM Forester STI set up) but still great.

Tarmac capability is enhanced but on snow and ice it's just totally different car! Suddenly driver feels so much more skilled

Absolutely a blast on loose surface. Rear diff makes behavior predictable and front diff ensures that car pulls to direction streering is pointed. I'd like to have DCCD but I think it's more marginal and I desired tall gearing on 6th more for highway use. I drive primarily on highway and I've been really happy about it.

Undecided on a clutch. I really hate the idea of installing a used one and i think that i will be on the hairy-edge of the holding power of the oem unit. Im leaning towards either Exedy or South Bend, something with a full-face disk that’s rated for mid-400ish wtq.

Other guys beat me but I echo them: Stay stock STI clutch!

What I read and understood was that tuned stock (VF52) STI turbo on E85 is totally fine. This is already a lot of torque so with sensible driving limit should be high up.

Anyway I strongly suggest first go stock and take a small risk that it won't work

Doing opposite and going "race" is very likely going to be pain in the neck on DD.

Failed clutch is not like some other component that is likely take other parts once it goes, so no reason to "play safe".

I need to decide on a clutch - this swap comes with a used one. I will inspect and make a decision to install or replace, pending condition.

Unless _crazy_ power/usage go with new STI OEM

Having had "performance" clutch in DD I'm bloody happy to have "normal" clutch again.

I have visco centre diff and Suretrac front and rear. Haven't done any heavy tarmac on this combination. On snow and ice I can pretty comfortably argue that it's the mechanical front (and rear) that makes the biggest difference. Some people on forum who track race seem to indicate to same direction.

Sure there are situations where DCCD will shine, but previous post seemed to claim too much for DCCD.

Here is why you want the STI transmission everyone. Now that I have an actual STI and my STI 6 speed swapped outback Ive been driving, I can tell you this guy is spot on......

 

 

 

That Differential Makes One Hell of a Difference

 

Most of our time at the event was spent in Imprezas and WRXs, but we were allowed a few laps in an STI toward the end of the day. A handful of things were readily apparent — the top-of-the-line WRX offers a lot more mechanical grip, damping refinement, and steering feel than its lesser brethren — but it was the adjustable center differential that truly stood out.

 

Simply put, the sucker just works. When you lock the diff, the STI turns in less readily on the power but launches itself out of corners as if hooked to God's own trebuchet. Unlock the diff, and the car rotates easier but slews and wanders from apex to corner exit. Scandanavian flicks — Ha! I just realized this! I Scandanavian flicked a car with an actual Scandanavian inside it! My life is complete! — are easier with the diff locked because you have more control over both the initial degree of yaw (the product of the "flick"), and because the extra traction helps you adjust the car's attitude while sideways.

 

"You must live with my English, which is Norwegian English, which is not very perfect. But have the guts to be on the power. The car will not work properly without it. Exit speed, power, exit speed, power!" — John Haugland

In short, like the amazing active rear differential in Mitsubishi's Evolution, I want to put one of these things in every machine I own. (Yes, even the appliances. Attention, brave little toaster: Oversteer my bagel! Go!)

Bezel is fine from 5MT, boot is way different. 6MT boot attaches to 5MT bezel in same way.

Excellent! Thank you!

Then I'll just get an aftermarket shifter and e-brake boot.

Is there a thread or post regarding the 5*110-STI/Hyundai -recipe?

 

As I recall when I did my swap there was some minor issue with the bezel and boot cover. I made it all work ok though. As long as you are replacing it I would go with the Spec B parts if they are different.

 

I know the Spec B shifter rods were much better fitment than the 5 speed.

Some good news from Russia for those, who want to get R180 on their B13 legacy but for some reason can't get Spec B axles.

 

We successfully installed R180 on 03' JDM legacy GT(B13 started from 2003 in japan), using pre-5*114 axles from 03' JDM GDB STI(30 splines on both ends of the inner shaft, AFAIK it's the same as US pre-5*114). We used outer CV joints from (you must get mentally ready) hyundai elantra. P/N MEYLE 37-14 498 0000. One car is running them with IHI VF42 for at least 50000 kms without faults, other just got them on.

 

Splines count:

LGT hub - 25

STI inner shaft - 30.

 

Swap is a direct bolt-on, CV joints went in as if they were manufactured for that exact reason.

Don't know the situation with parts in US, but here it's almost impossible to get your hands on used spec B axles, and for new ones you have to wait a month and pay ~$1200.

STI axles are easy to find wherever you want, and usual price is $300 for pair. Meyle CV's are $100 for pair and can be found in any shop.

 

^this. Page 120 on this thread.

Maybe I should ask if 6MT shifter boot will fit on to 5MT LGT bezel?

Parts for swap ordered. JDM STI Forester transmission and R180 diff. With axles/CV-jointes I'll try 5*110-STI/Hyundai -recipe.

I've done a ton of search and research but haven't concluded 100%-sure if 5MT shifter bezel and boot cover are possible to use with 6MT?

Anyway I want to renew my shifter boot so should I go 6MT or 5MT model?

Thanks!

Thinking to use Forester STi sg9 transmission and rear differential. Should be equivalent to Impreza's stuff apart from gear ratios.

Anyone can see any problem regarding this?

Update on my tranny work. Had a bolt shear off the pinion ring of the front LSD and punch a hole in my case yesterday on the freeway. Took me a few seconds to realize it was me doing all the smoking and burning then I got it off the road and stopped as quickly as I could.

 

Hopefully just need to buy a replacement case but don't know if there was any internal damage yet. Shouldn't be with how much oil I left on the side of the road.

Nearly exactly same type of failure as I saw last summer. Mine just did have one very neat hole in diff casing with bolts threads sticking out. I haven't open up tranny yet but I have open diff not LSD.

Totally agree with you. I've already got the solution in my "wish list" as I'd like to consider 1000cc TF if I go with a bigger snail

 

My points were directly related to the post I quoted that said, "I second ID1000's awesome injectors. Drive just as good as the 750's and same price so no reason not to go with the 1000's." If you have SF in your car, DW740cc or DW850cc SF with rebate will be a lot cheaper than ID1000s, pigtails, and the T1 conversion setup.

 

There is no doubt to me that if you need >850cc, that there is no better solution than ID1000cc with a top feed conversion for performance and reliability.

According to some ID1000 flows only ca.900cc so no real advantage over DW850.

Schneider can you confirm or deny this:

Edit to the BTS-5056J parts install list:

 

2ea. USDM SpecB top hats, 20320AG01A. local.

2ea. USDM SpecB dust cap 20326AG000. local. (NOT 20320AG000)

2ea. JDM rear shock perch 20370AG010. www.japanparts.com

2ea. JDM rear rubber upper 20375AE011. www.japanparts.com

My BTS-Kit landed from Japan a month ago. However I missed the above correction so I've got an extra pair of top hats now... :/

Just need to get dust caps and ready to try out. Transmission crapped out so it has posponed installation of this.

2005 XT MT lmtd

Stock but not for long.