08 LGT

I tried to call them this week several times as well and couldn't get an answer.

Mine has 175k, of course I only put 1/2mile

On it. And the engine was trashed

 

 

You only made it 1/2 a mile before the engine blew? Or you put half of the total miles on it before it blew at 175k?

'09 w/ 123,000 mi- bought it with 52,000 mi in 2012

Replaced:

ALL Gaskets @ 117,000 mi. Timing belt @ 100,000 mi, Clutch @ 90,000 mi. Radiator @ 60,000 And currently a cv boot.

Oil every 5k w/ mobile 1 full synthetic high mileage and o.e.m. filter

100 headlight replacements and three sets of tires as well as front rotors and 2 sets of spark plugs

 

That's really weird that a 2009 would be burning out headlights that fast. I haven't had to change mine once (2008) in 4-5 years.

 

The problem with headlights burning out in the 2005-2007 models was because the daytime running lights used the lowbeams instead of the highbeams. The 2009 should be using the highbeams and not burning through lowbeam bulbs quickly at all. I wonder what's causing that on yours.

295,000 stock motor, turbo, tranny. Still running like a top. Only mods are a downpipe (catted) and a Cobb AP w/shelf map for the last 200K.

 

I think you have the Chosen One of these cars. 295,000 on the original block and turbo??? Damn, son! At 88k, I can only pray that my car has another 200,000 miles in it as well.

Ya... I know they are the wrong spring pressure rating for the bypass valve 13 psi on fram http://www.fram.com/search-parts/Part-Detail/?PN=XG7317

14-18 psi on purolator http://www.filtertopia.com/filters/PUROLATOR/L14610.htm

vs 16-20+ but I still have a stock of them that I need to use before buying more :-\ . I do change the oil like 3500-4500 miles depending.

 

Purolator PL14615 looks to be correct now with a 20-30 psi relief valve

and fram's cardboard garbage PH9715 with 16-28 psi

 

 

I do use several old hard drive magnets (neodymium) on the sides of the filters to capture any iron/steel filings and cut each open to make sure there isn't anything crazy in there and to drain out any oil left.

 

You can also use PL14610. It's a little longer, but fits fine.

Put over 6600 miles on it in the last 2 mos. It's over 286k now, and still running strong.

 

286,000 miles on the original block? That's insane. Congrats!

I'm having this same intermittent issue, although only when the temperature drops into the mid-30s or lower. I suspect the poor factory soldering contracts enough in freezing temperatures such that the contact is lost and the electrical connection is broken. I'm going to resolder the damn thing under the map lights when I get a chance and see if that fixes it. Like magic, the light never comes on when it's warmer than about 40, and always comes on near freezing and below.

I had mine off for a while because the plastic pop tabs holding it in apparently wriggled loose over time and all but 1 was missing. I noticed absolutely no difference in performance with it on or off. It probably helps a little, but the impact on daily driving is negligible.

107,500 mile update: Stock clutch is slipping; replacing it with a South Bend stage 2 clutch

 

So far, I have changed both rear wheel bearings, the timing belt and water and pump, and now will be doing the clutch.

As of 101,000 miles, I have replaced the following:

 

- Timing belt and water pump

- Both rear wheel hub/bearing assemblies

- Two cracked windshields

 

Not too shabby. I wish the the hubs had held out longer, but there is no sign of oil leakage or burnoff anywhere, so I'll take it. God bless Rotella T6.

#1) Tires on my few-weeks-old 2008 LGT: High Performance All Season, Goodyear Eagle GT 91W 215/40/17

 

#2) Mid-Atlantic/Southeast

 

#3) Commuting, interstate, rural mountain highways, around town

 

#4) Driving style- Spirited

 

#5) N/A

 

#6) I feel like "Performance" and "All Season" rarely ever belong in the same sentence, and I had been planning on replacing these after buying the car...but I've been very surprised. They have a great amount of stick, aren't noisy at all, and can trick you into thinking you've got summer tires on...until it rains, when they really shine! They have this asymmetric tread pattern designed to wick water away while still offering large amounts of grip, and it works great. I went to an abandoned parking lot in the rain actively trying to push them to their limits by whipping the back end of the car around, but they never let go of the pavement or slid. Driving around town and on the highway in the rain has been equally impressive- it's like the rain isn't even there. I've been on a few excursions out to the twisties in the Blue Ridge Mountains the past two weekends, and they were more than adequate bombing around winding roads. These aren't tires I would want to take on a track in a serious competition, but anyone looking for a set of all-weather tires that don't sacrifice much in the performance department should give these a look. They are equally good in the wet and dry.

I did a wtf double take the first time I watched this video this morning.

Then I noticed the top numbers on your speedometer are kilometers.

 

I remember driving to Canada when I was really young and getting excited because I thought their 100 km/h speed limit signs were 100 MPH.