Regardie

The body is pretty much garbage, lots of the 22 year old Northeast rust where you would expect it.

I guess I will have to put up a part out thread soonish and get some pictures up.

But anyone closer to NJ that wanted it whole would be better for me.

Have to find time to put it up on stands and replace the brake line section and do a flush of the brake system. That has been on the list of things to do and the hole in the line makes it a bit more urgent.

I was going to do the bushings in the rear differential since they are gone and it flops around a bunch.

Thinking about it, I also have a 5MT transmission that needs a new center differential, which I have a used one sitting around and a matching rear diff that I have new seals waiting to be installed. And a 2006 front crossmember when I thought I would be going to the newest STi steering rack for the tighter ratio but decided on the 2004 as it should bolt right up.

The rack is still in the box from an Ebay remanufacturer with the core charge invoice waiting years for me to do the swap.

What else do I have? Heated seat inserts from an Outback and the wiring to make them work. Leather seats from a 2nd gen sedan too.

Hi All,

Before I take the time to post an official for sale / part out I wanted to see if there was any interest at all in my car.

Specs:

2000 Legacy GT sedan with over 200K miles, lots of rear quarter panel rust.

The good: 5MT, Bilstein springs and struts, Cobb EL header, cat and newer axleback, Pennin LW crank pully, Delta 1500 cams, manifold spacers, Baja rear sway bar, Delicious stage 2 flashed ECM, Intake and wiring swapped to turn a EJ 252 into a EJ 251 to make the flashed ECM work, heads ported and polished when cams installed, new oil pump.

The bad: rust bad enough on rear passenger side to remove jacking point and currently rusted through brake line to that wheel.

It really needs to be parted out but I don't have the time or patience to do it.

I have a bunch of other parts for it, reman 2004 STi steering rack, rear diff bushings, Whiteline kit with bushings, tie rod ends and ball joints.

It runs fine, small leak of some sort on top of the block but too far under maniifold to really get to it.

If there is any interest, I will put together an actual For Sale or Part Out post. Really would like to let someone else go at it though and sell it whole.

I have had good success with axles from https://www.cvaxles.com/ CV of Ocala. They manufacture axles for all sorts of industrial machines and reman auto axles. They used to have stock of Subaru axles so you don't even need to send one in.

They even used to give a discount if you read the site and find the name of the owner's dog. That might still be valid.

I was about say, What? And then read the Wiki page for the EJ252: "The only notable differences confirmed are unique intake manifold and throttle body designs to accommodate the different MAP sensor location and IACV location.[14] They also have different cam and crank sprocket reluctor configuration."

 

Learn something new every day....but I'd still like to see a pic....and if it's got the Phase 2 heads, then the IM is more likely not compatible with either Phase 1 SOHC or DOHC heads/IM.

 

Still interesting to read that....I've heard/read about the 252, just thought is was the early PZEV or CA version.

I have a 2000 GT Limited with the 5 speed. It originally had the EJ252 engine. I wanted to do a Delicious Tuning ECM flash to try to get more power out of the engine and I ran into all sorts of issues.

The flash supports the EJ251 on the Unisia JEC ECM but the Legacy uses a Denso ECM that may or may not be flashable in the same way.

So I dropped my car off with my guy to do the head gaskets and pulled the ECM to send off for the flash. He had a Impreza ECM we thought would run the car and we swapped it in and the car wouldn't do anything.

That's what started my research into the EJ252 and my decision to convert the engine into a EJ251.

Subarus use two different driver's side cam sprockets with different marks on the back for the sensor and they are different enough that if you have the wrong set the motor won't start.

The 90's EJ engines used a narrow band 4 wire AF sensor ahead of the CAT and a Map / MAF (I can't remember which) in the intake with a simpler throttle body. The EJ251 introduced a new throttle body with an outbound atmospheric sensor and a combined air temp / volume sensor on the intake. It also added an air assist throttle control and a wide band 6 wire front AF sensor.

So my build became Delta 1500 cams, heads ported and polished, lightweight crank pulley, Stage 1 flash and Cobb EL headers and a Cobb Hi Flow Cat.

That was the plan. All these other bits were needed to support the flash. I sourced another JEC ECM for the flash, Cam Sprockets with the other marks, a full intake manifold and throttlebody from a EJ251, a huge chunk of a body to engine harness from an automatic Outback that I broke apart to add more wires to my existing harness to support the different sensors, a complete EJ251 engine harness to go with the EJ251 intake, the outboard atmospheric sensor and harness, new wideband AF sensor and new O2 sensor (post Cat).

There are a few wires that need to move in the connectors to the ECM. I spent a lot of time looking at the wiring diagrams for the automatic and manual Legacy's and the Forester model that my replacement ECM came from.

The EJ252 was a transition engine that only appeared in the Legacy 5 speed 00-02 or so. It used parts from a bunch of other engines, some older some newer. The emissions were from the 90's while the crank sprocket shows up in later cars. The block and heads are the same as the EJ251 so all those parts are the same, not dual cam EJ25 or older EJ22 from the previous generation Legacy.

A bit late to the party but even so, the biggest difference is the 00 5 speed has the EJ252 engine which has the late 90's style throttle body and intake manifold and o2 sensors and a Denso ECM to match.

By the time the 03/04 models came out they were all EJ251 with a newer style throttle body, intake manifold, and o2 sensors.

None of the WRX stuff will work in the rear. Your best bet is the BP chassis legacy GT or spec B stuff. You will need the top hat from that generation in the front though. Or look for JDM Bilsteins for your generation. I am running a set now on my 2000 GT. You get a bit of a drop. I think I needed to swap the top hats to make them work.

I have the Baja rear sway and it rubs on a bit of the chassis but it is much better back there.

Regardie

Union County, NJ

2000 LGT Limited

Titanium Pearl

Good question - I have not disassembled the rack internals. Can't see why one would pursue a "bolt in" solution that far when modifying the '15 STI tie rods is much less intrusive, but I'm all for the discussion/discovery.

Front track on my Legacy is 57.9" so even with the thinner lock nut I still need a couple of inches to make it fit.

The '05-'07 STI inner tie rod (P/N 34160AE000 which supersedes 34160AE001) is common with the '08+ WRX, which I measured and confirmed is an M16 stub thread. It's possible you could use an M16/M20 adapter insert but trimming the tie rod is less expensive, and safer in my opinion.

 

34160AE010 (-'04 STI) is the only P/N I haven't ordered and confirmed. Will do so next time I am picking up parts.

Oddly enough, now I can't find that Raybestos part that I saw. I am finding it difficult to pin down the size as I have seen M14 and M16 both listed as the inner size of that part.

Are the sockets swappable? I have never tried to take one apart. I haven't found the track width for my 2000 BE yet so I know I will have some work to do if I try to make this swap.

Over the weekend I trimmed the inner tie rods by ~6-8mm (3-4 threads). I also picked up some stainless M14x1.5 thin jam nuts which are 7mm tall, versus the stock ones which are 11mm tall.

 

Went to my local dealer to get the P/Ns for the lock washer and boot band today. Using a VIN from a '15 STI on the lot we looked them up, and also confirmed the correct rack P/N. Here they are:

 

2015 STI Inner Tie Rod Lock Washer (called "Plate Tie Rod") - 34168FG000

2015 STI Inner Boot Band - 34128AG000

 

I did a reverse search on the lock washer using my catalog, and it appears the '08-'10 (and up to '14 ostensibly) STI used the same lock washer, which would imply they have the same M20x1.5 inner stub thread. According to cars101.com, the '08+ STI track width is 60.2" while the BP/BL LGT is 58.9", so the inner tie rods will not be a drop-in solution. The '08-'10 WRX does not use the same lock washer as the STI, so I would guess it uses a smaller stub thread size. Again, the '10+ WRX is probably the same but I only want to state what the my catalog says, which only goes up to '10 MY.

What about the inner tie rod from the 04-08 STi? Can you get the inner size for that? Maybe that is also M20 and a little shorter.

Track width of 04 STi 58.7" from cars101.com and the part numbers for inner tie rods are 34160AE000, 34160AE001, and 34160AE010 from Opposedforces.com. Rock Auto gets me a replacement Raybestos part that is M20x1.5 rack end and M14x1.5 outer end.