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TurboLag23

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Posts posted by TurboLag23

  1. I like to autocross and I've done one so far with this car, so I'd like to lower it some. But as you can see, I like to play in the dirt a bit, and it's already been jumped, friend driving, with 5 total people, 60mph on back-roads, all 4 tires off the ground, and a nice smooth landing. :lol:

     

    So all in all I'd lower it and have the lift spacers for a winter/ rallycross setup. Also thinking of a nice little N/A build. Then again, I need to get my Lincoln back on the road.

     

    Sounds like a good time :)

     

    Mine's been sideways of course, but never airborne haha

     

    I think lowering it is a good place to start. Consider uprated breaks too if you're gonna be autocrossing (new pads/rotors).

  2. In regards to Post #30 (not gonna quote it because it's huge and I'm not a noob anymore hahaha)...

     

    Would all/most of this information also hold true for a 3rd Gen. Outback vs. a 3rd Gen. LGT? I'm considering coilovers on my OB at some point (probably KW's), and I want to know if most of this info. lines up so I can swap them and do a good job.

     

    Although the coilovers will probably come during/after a 6MT swap I also want to do, so some of these parts will likely get changed out regardless hahaha.

  3. my ride

     

    198738_524368260948659_2105134399_n.jpg

     

    59702_546338975399603_1203394921_n.jpg

     

    285393_10200172358044493_307421560_n.jpg

     

    If you wanted to scrape your bumpers on everything why didn't you just keep the ride height you had before and get a front lip and some JDM rear lip/sideskirt combo and just destroy the hell out of those? The damage you'd do to those would be a lot less substantial than the damage you've done to your fenders.

     

    Sorry bro, but that's too low.

     

    Side note: Why do people put stickers on the drivers side of their windshield? I mean... what was the logic there?

  4. All the parts have been ordered. I got a good deal on the R180 rear end parts needed, so I'm not using the R160 (would have saved me ~$770).

     

    Recipe B - 3.54:1 rear diff ($5000 total)

    Transmission options: 08 STi ($2535)

    Rear diff options: 06 STi R180 ($410)

    Rear axles: Spec B ($450)

    Front axles: Regular LGT ($free)

    Driveshaft: 4EAT ($100)

    STi flywheel: stock, resurfaced ($165)

    misc parts ($300)

    DCCD controller ($455)

    clutch: DXD Stg 2 Endurance ($575)

     

    Where did you order all of those parts from? Or were they all separate purchases?

  5. ^^dope wagon!

    http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8045/8349627751_40bd4e80ef_c.jpg

    http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8212/8350693068_ed4e45de99_c.jpg

     

    Very nice :)

     

    Aftermarket parts question. One time, on my travels through the intwebs, I saw a picture of a wagon that looks a lot like yours (JDM Legacy). But it had one key piece of aftermarket that intrigued me. It was a piece of trim that was painted the body color, and covered the red center part of the rear tail light bar to make it look like the Gen. 3 had just a traditional set of headlights. IMO, it REALLY improved the look of the back end of the car.

     

    Where would I find something like this, or who would make something like this? I really want one for my USDM Outback.

  6. slotted rotors are probably overkill. Centric blanks work great on the track. The killer is the heat generated...as others have stated, getting cool air to the brake disk, caliper, and hub will do more than a BBK.

     

    I dont have cooling and burn up a set of hubs every track day. Measured temps on the rotors after a 30 minute session have been in excess of 1300 degrees. On stock calipers, centric blanks, and HPS, I was black-flagged for having "orange" rotors.

     

    Any pad will stop you once. The catch is how long it gets to cool off before the next use. Track driving will see several hard braking actions per lap. Personal experience says Hawk HPS pads are good for 1-2 laps at Pacific Raceways before fading, Hawk HPS+ are good for 3-5 laps, and Hawk DTC 70/60 combo are good for the whole session. At a different track driving 10/10ths, the Hawk DTC 70/60 combo was good for 6 laps until the brake fluid boiled and there were no brakes.

     

    Track pads, while street drivable, are not going to be fun or safe experience. Normal, even spirited driving, may never get them into their ideal heat range. Outside their ideal heat range, they will work just not very well. A street pad (step up from OEM) will be more fun and safer.

     

    My personal experience says Hawk HPS pads with centric blanks on the street suits me fine. When I feel the need to flog the car, they hold up for the few minutes needed.

     

    Your personal experience (which is zero at this point) should look for a baseline of the existing setup, then upgrade as needed. Better yet, take a driver skills class and find out what your car will really do when pushed under safe conditions. It may be your driving technique that slows you down. (the number of times I get flamed for saying this is too many, yet, if you are already an expert driver then why are you asking for advice on wear items). The TL is a nice car (I had one), however, a LGT will run rings around it in stock condition.

     

    Ok, all that makes sense

     

    Haha I don't mind having my driving technique "critiqued"... the last driver skills course I took was about 2 years ago, back when I was driving the Outback. It was very helpful, but I'm probably pretty rusty haha. And the reason I'm getting the Legacy is specifically to run rings around the TL hahaha. The TL is perfect stock, but I'm afraid any aftermarket will kind of ruin it. Plus, it being FWD severely limits its performance potential. The Legacy will make a perfect project car/daily driver.

     

    One question though. Why did you say that the slotted rotors are overkill? In theory, they provide better cooling, which means less fade. Does this theory just not translate into practice to the extent it should to be helpful on non-BBK rotors?

  7. Does anyone have any opinions/predictions on the following setup?:

     

    -Stoptech slotted rotors front & rear

    -Stoptech pads front & rear

    -Technafit stainless-steel brake lines

     

    Thinking ahead to when I have a Legacy, I will want a good brake setup that won't break the bank like some BBK's will. The above setup totals out at about $700, which seems like quite a deal compared to the couple thousand needed for a BBK. The intended use for this setup would be for a combination of daily driving, brisk driving through canyon roads on a regular basis, and possibly the occasional autocross a couple times a year.

     

    It sounds like stock calipers are fine, so upgrading calipers wasn't too high on my list (mainly because of price). Is this a correct assumption?

     

    Thanks

  8. You need to read through NSFW's thread, hammerdown's thread and groff's thread (this one).

     

    Your answers are there.

     

    Hubs cant be swapped and axles cant be converted.

     

    Also there is a thread for converting an Auto....

     

    Can you point me towards that auto conversion thread please???

     

    Thanks :)

  9. I just swapped in an 07 STi tranny from a wrecked STi... why fool with the spec.b tranny when there are tons more STi's out there.

     

    What was the total cost on your transmission swap, all-told??

     

    Also, just a general question: how hard would it be to convert an automatic car to a manual?? What "extra" work would go into this??

  10. hello,guys!

    my wagon.

    http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/8532/88ce131136f519c1large.jpghttp://img201.imageshack.us/img201/7215/48ceacb66d85af8clarge.jpghttp://img23.imageshack.us/img23/7471/48cf0a943bb0c2celarge.jpghttp://img715.imageshack.us/img715/9461/88cde845fb0017f8large.jpghttp://img24.imageshack.us/img24/3213/88cde84574e3f0e8large.jpghttp://img204.imageshack.us/img204/1320/88ce2b1f3a661d37large.jpg

    http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/4403/48cefb41341f7d4elarge.jpg

    http://img806.imageshack.us/img806/4666/88ce111b3e3d7a78large.jpg

     

    Beautiful!!!!

    What brand is the light bar cover you have??? I love it and I really want one for my old Outback, which now belongs to my brother. It would make a great birthday present when he gets his license :)

  11. Nothing wrong with a lowered Outback on P1's ;)

    http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k115/T-Ho_man/Lancaster.png

     

    Haha that's gotta be my favorite Outback of this gen that I've seen :)

     

    Have you considered setting the center part of the rear light bar to body color? The guy with the fighter jet theme whose pics are quoted a little higher on this page did it; you can see it in the rear shot. I love that look, and I think it would complete the look of any Outback.

     

    Already missing mine, or else I'd give it a whirl myself :(. Although I can't fund lowering it right now, so it would still look kinda stupid hahahaha

  12. http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n150/ZeN0/a9a78f58.jpg

     

    http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n150/ZeN0/6a74b0eb.jpg

     

    Haha that is awesome!!!

    I always wondered how a black roof would look on these cars... you did just what I envisioned, and it looks great!!

    Also just noticed the light bar on the back... Awesome!

  13. Yea... but idk, on the wagon I think it looks a little big and bloaty. I never outright disliked it, but I never liked it much either.

    Here's another draft I did with a better pic and a bit more time. I think this looks quite a bit better than my first draft.

     

    Shits & giggles :D

    did a bit more photo-choppin'... lowered, window tints, and gray taillights. definitely fits the center bar concept better i think

    244943290_DesignConcept2loweredtintedmoddedsmall.thumb.jpg.6d21f1fe3d5cfb2435f58f815f22b2e4.jpg

  14. not a big fan of the white in the middle, i would just black it out, the center tail light is the signature for our gen legacy's!

     

    Yea... but idk, on the wagon I think it looks a little big and bloaty. I never outright disliked it, but I never liked it much either.

    Here's another draft I did with a better pic and a bit more time. I think this looks quite a bit better than my first draft.

    940184882_DesignConcept2small.thumb.jpg.d3ad528d70cdddea74b0bf111581eb6b.jpg

  15. Just a quick edit

    http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k115/T-Ho_man/Untitledd.png

     

    And here's an actual one

    http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k115/T-Ho_man/p1-1.jpg

     

    Alright, did up some design sketches of mine with what I had in mind. Here's a before/after mock-up. What do you guys think?

    I'll try and find a pic of my car at a better angle hahaha

    2101241920_DesignConcept1small.thumb.jpg.bd38c81fecc5618f5db94fcadeca8eae.jpg

    1397295669_DSCN3195small.thumb.jpg.42e0be278af4a77901b75c0f3953eaee.jpg

  16. http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k115/T-Ho_man/0627011427a.jpg

     

    http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k115/T-Ho_man/0627011431.jpg

     

    Havent posted in a while

     

    I'm just wondering... with that pic of the back, how would it have looked/worked if you had outlined the shape of the taillights and painted over that rear taillight center bar thing? Maybe give it a similar look to the Baja's taillights? I've long considered doing this to mine, I think it would make a huge difference in the lok of the back end of these cars

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