dr20t

Will slip on stock clutch packs at 350ftlb of torque. Torque is what kills transmissions not power.

 

I did run 255awkw on my ej20y on e70 with gt2871 1.5 scroll setup. This hit full boost of 21psi at under 3000rpm and was extremely responsive. Didnt slip at all.

 

And that was with brake boosting galore and some heavy driving.

2871 is similar to 1.5 blouch xtr.

 

Soon as I upgraded to my ej207 with gtx3076, it would slip at 1 bar boost.

 

Mick

Not unless I get the money I am chasing

 

I am eager to put the twin scroll setup on.

I know all about your build and woes, J !

 

Will be great to see the 6 speed done though

 

Mick

Not to nit pick - but I believe my time of 12.21 is faster than RomeSti's 5eat

 

That was on my stock auto when the car was making 255awkw. Lol

 

Have since trapped 125.8mph but with a shitty 2.4 60ft time (single scroll gtx3076 with GT spec large runner headers plus pre turbo leak = no brake boost).

 

Will be soon fixed with twin scroll goodness and hopefully a 10 second slip. Stock ej207 long block with arp headstuds

 

Mick

I've broken two centre diffs in my built 5eat - ACME pinnacle kit that Adam did with a Hexmods / Climber D VB, plus brass bushings from frankster.

 

Both times shattered the centre diff input and output shaft and in the second case, I sheared the teeth entirely off the centre diff input shaft

 

This was until I Sonic Xrayed, Micro-Linished, Shot Peened and Cryo treated my entire centre diff, input and output shaft and all planetaries etc. Did this 2 and a half years ago and haven't had it happen since thankfully. Also shared this with Climber D Dave and a few others at the time.

 

Version 10 JDM GRB EJ207 making 530-550whp

 

Mick

Update - checked entire system to find fuel pump negative inside the cradle was loose on the pigtail plug (walbro 460). This explains p0230 code.

 

After failing to unpick the terminals from the plug to avoid wiring joints in the fuel pump cradle, I soldered and heat shrunk the connection to ensure it was solid.

 

Then took the time to make the upgrade per Underdog's diagram. Im using the same 12ga fp+ and fp- wiring except now the fp+ is fed from the fpcm.

 

Again due to a failed unpicking of the terminals, i had to cut the original wiring about 1 inch from the fpcm plug and soldered the B+ from the relay and the FP+ output to fuel pump onto the original 18ga wires.

 

Voltage at pump tested at 12.2v with ignition priming circuit. This is with a brand new battery showing 12.55v at battery post static.

 

Hopefully the wiring is adequate to cope with 16amp draw the walbro is pulling at 80psi

 

Thanks again for the heads up

 

Mick

Tough to say if the draw could have fried the FPCM, but it's not much of a stretch to imagine the possibility.

 

For P0230 I would verify battery voltage at the B+ pin, resistance between GND and (-) terminal on the battery, and verify the FPCM and pump connections are good, including any solder/crimps you added.

 

How is (was) your system wired when you got the CEL/DTC?

 

Thanks for that.

 

Would explain as this battery has been dead and not holding charge after jump starting.

 

System wired per original thread in your original post.

 

Will pull the multimeter out this week sometime and have a dig around

 

Mick

Was pointed here after complaining about my battery life to a local forum member. I have been through two batteries in the last 12 months. I put it down to it being a small battery and due to it not being driven very often.

 

Great pickup underdog.

 

Question - I popped a p230 error code on the weekend (fuel pump circuit), putting me into limp mode. Was about 20km from home so switching on and off allowed me to get home. It was intermittent and not constant.

 

Any chance the current draw with vehicle off for a consistent period of time couldve fried the fpcm?

 

The car gets driven once or twice a month and more recently sat for almost 3 months undriven.

 

Mick

yea you need outback 05-08 gearing

 

 

Damn I just sold one of these too

 

Thanks frank will search your mega shift thread

 

Mick

Just realized I made a fundamental mistake which makes this irrelevant now. Post facelift (09 usdm) 5eat had 3.08 final drive which is taller than my current. Not what I'm after

 

Back to drawing board

Im worried you will have tcu issues, not sure how the tcu will feel

About different ratios.

Mechanically it should work fine . As long as the rear and fromt diff is the same .

 

You could make your car think its manual. And then use aftermarket tcu such as megashift. I started a thread on it.

 

I've also got the post facelift tcu (09 usdm onward). Do you know if plugs are the same? And if I installed it, will my ecu be able to communicate with this newer tcu?

 

From memory when I looked at this some time back, the wiring schematic was different between the two models.

 

What's the mega shift worth?

 

Mick

I would suspect front or centre diff backlash / wear

 

Tends to make a "straight cut" sound like reverse as they wear out

 

Speaking of front diffs, (and this is aimed almost exclusive at frankster / climber d), my 3.27 final ratio is robbing me of acceleration. I have a post facelift (2009 onward for you usdm folk) entire trans and rear diff here that I am keen to try and swap in. This will give me a shorter final drive (3.53 from memory) to assist in acceleration.

 

Will my reduction drive ratio be thrown out? Will this work?

 

Mick

After having my acme pinnacle / hexmods vb / frankster centre bushes heavily modified and built 5eat in my audm liberty for some time now, I will be biting the bullet and swapping to a 6 speed manual in a few weeks.

 

I absolutely love the 5eat and has been handling my 550whp 520ftlb of torque very well without a hitch. However for my intended circuit racing use, the 6mt just makes more sense (which absolutely pains me to say because of how much I love my 5eat). I'm sure I could've tried an aftermarket tcu etc to override the downshift limitation of the factory tcu for track (my main pain point and motivator for going manual), but wanted to try the 6 speed in any event

 

One thing I can confirm for sure - I had 3 ecu's sent to Tactrix for bench unbricking a couple of years back. One was auto two were manual ecu's. All had auto roms flashed onto them after unbricking, so this confirms flashing an auto rom onto manual ecu does not brick and vice versa.

 

I will be removing the tcu and flashing a manual rom onto my auto ecu when I do this - will report back if the high speed CAN error disappears

 

I also have a manual cluster here ready to swap in, which can be swapped without ecu/biu/ key fob change - so long as the programmer has acces to can software and can reprogram the cluster to sync with the ecu

 

My unique problem for this however is my audm gen 4 legacy (2004) has the dual avcs 32 bit ecu (like jap spec - originally ej20x motor), and thus may pose an issue with the cluster I'm using which is from the later model (usdm 08+ equivalent) s402 Sti manual with a 9000rpm tacho. It may not be a problem at all - but I'm keen to test this out (after the swap as dont want to complicate the swap initially)

 

Wish me luck!

 

Mick

Wow

 

Kudos and congrats on being the fastest gen 4 in the known world!

 

What gear were you crossing the line in and what revs?

 

Mick

the rwd/4wd conversion seems thus far to be the toughest.

 

and i would use the broken intermediate shaft so if anyone breaks there center diff you have the option of sending me the broken parts and for about 40% of new parts i could convert it for you.

 

 

I've got one of those I could send you

 

Then the problem will be my stock r160 rear diff holding up to 500awhp and 450ft lb of torque

those vids are crazy, was that 20-75 in like 2 seconds? Redline at 8k?

 

Would you mind sharing how much the labor to put in the clutch rebuild kit was?

 

Thanks mate - like I said picture/vid speaks a thousand words as I can't adequately explain in words how much I love this transmission kit

 

Redline is 8400

 

I'm in Australia so costs were "mates rates" by an auto trans specialist friend -

 

$600 aud ($500 odd usd) to pull apart and reinstall clutch kit and centre diff

$700 to remove and refit with 12 litres of full synthetic trans fluid worth $150

$80 to flush old trans fluid from existing lines and cooler

$50 new trans fluid external filter

Can't launch as yet as can't get any boost on the Convertor. Have setup antilag and playing with it a little to try and get 10-12psi on the line.

 

This will give me a 1.65-1.7 60 ft time like my old setup and hopefully get me a 10 second slip.

 

Best run on this setup is 13.2 @125.4mph. That's with a 2.8 60 ft time.

 

Previous pb with old setup was 12.1 (1.68 60ft time)

So. Time for a long overdue review of the ACME 5eat Pinnacle plus rebuild kit.

 

In addition to the pre- packed piston drum which Adam meticulously fitted up and had machined to allow the maximum possible amount of clutch packs, I also fitted the following:

 

- bronze centre diff bushings from frankster

- hexmods f1 vb

- rebuilt stall Convertor

- all new seals, frictions and steels to rebuild the front half of the box

 

The box is fantastic and nothing short of it. The power is easily and readily transferred without not one bit of slip (confirmed by dyno revs vs power curve when torque was flat).

 

To put this into perspective, before the ACME upgrade, I was slipping in second and third gear as soon as I hit 15-16psi on my setup. And that was running extremely rich and bugger all timing (base tune).

 

The box now holds 500+whp and 27.5psi of boost with absolute ease. No sign of stress or slippage in the actualy transmission at all.

 

In normal Drive mode, the drive is seamlessly smooth as are the shifts. No jerking at all.

 

In manual mode, the shifts are a little crisper in low throttle / load situations, but not brutal.

 

In auto mode (drive) at wot its crisp and firm but not overbearing.

 

In manual mode wot. It is motorbike like shifting. Romraider logs confirm 0.37 seconds first to second and second to third. This must be seen to be believed.

 

Here are some youtube links to how great this box shifts

 

(Note the squirming of tyres and chassis loading you can hear as it comes on full boost in first)

 

[ame=http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=c0VMO_XoHAs]2004 Liberty GT JDM EJ207 GTX3076 5eat - YouTube[/ame]

 

[ame=http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=fTx-AwKLJd8]2004 Liberty GT JDM EJ207 GTX3076 5eat - YouTube[/ame]

 

All in all, I absolutely love this transmission and words cannot describe it adequately. Everyone and anyone who has been in this have been absolutely blown away by how it drives and feels. No manual will come close

 

Have blown a centre diff by stripping the gears off the output shaft completely, but other than that, no problems. As discussed in the 5eat thread, I've had the centre diff cryo treated and strengthened as much as possible now to avoid any future diff damage at this power/ torque level.

 

A massive thank you to Adam and Climber Dave for their efforts with this, and their ongoing support which is absolutely critical.

 

In case i wasnt clear, this is a fantastic bit of gear guys and anyone with a modified legacy / liberty with a 5eat should jump on this ASAP.

 

Mick

The box is fantastic. I cannot say much more than that without extreme detail which will come soon

I updated my post with more info.

 

That's an awesome result and a great finish to what I see has been a very trying build - good on you for persisting

I'm on the left. Just did this today.

 

http://www.strizzyphoto.com/photos/i-tXsBXft/0/XL/i-tXsBXft-XL.jpg

 

Great work!

 

I think that places you in number one (for now )

 

Assuming this is a gen 4?

 

Details of build?

Gtx 3076 0.86 rear housing t3 entry single scroll

 

Mine is only a baby 2.0 litre though

So I did 125mph today in my legacy GT

 

ET was 13.2 though - 2.76 60 foot time will do that

 

Gotta love lag and an auto that can't spool

 

Anti lag will fix that next week

 

Mick

490whp/510wtq 30r, ewg, e85 10.4 at 132mph

 

 

Any more details on this setup?

 

What model legacy as 10.4 @132 with 490 is freakish - weight would be around 2900-3000lbs yeah?

 

I'm aiming for 11.2-11.4 @125 with my lard ass gen 4 GT with 450whp

 

Mick

Should've clarified that was warm