coblue

Nicely done Dave! Still loving my Cryotune...

Hell yeah!

Got Cryo-DynoTuned on Friday and am loving it. The car ran nicer today, and I agree it's hard to keep your foot out of it.

Dave cares about what he does and it shows.

Chimera, nothing comes up on my access port. This forum has been really good so thought I would give it a try here first, then the dealer/shop as last resort.

 

MAP, electrical/connector was sorta what I was thinking but pulling the cluster will be new ground for me. Are there any connectors I can check before pulling the cluster?

Thanks for the idea Max but I don't think it's the battery. Just put a new one in 1k miles/2 months ago. Engine turns right over. error appears with key in the on position, before there is any significant draw.

Yes,

I tried the battery disconnect also, and no change.

Maybe this is just a coincidence, but it happened right after I ran the fuel pretty darn low, and parked on a hill. Woundering if maybe the problem is a response to low fuel pressure or air in the line. But, I have driven it at least 60 miles since it filling it up so I would think anything fuel related would be over by now.

Any more ideas out there?

Nope. I think the cycling fans would have given that away. Thanks for the idea tho.

I searched but couldn't find the answer. My '05 LGT dash gauges have gone berserk the last couple days. When i turn the key/engine on, Sometimes they're dark, sometimes they don't sweep, sometimes some of them work and the others don't, sometimes they all work. The only consistent thing seems to be the odometer flashes "------" and the console trip meter displays "ERR" for instant and average mpg and miles to empty. No codes come up on my AP.

Help!

Anyone have the napa banding tool they want to forward on for the good of the whole?

I need one for this job only...

I was wondering if anyone else with the new housing has noticed this. When installing my 16g I really had to force it forward into the intake hose in order for the turbo housing to match up on the uppipe and brackets. Then when installing the stock intercooler we really had to twist/force the IC to match up with its mounting holes ( the inlet from the turbo and the bracket on the driver side). Lastly the engine cover holes no longer line up squarely with the front bracket and the intercooler holes. I haven't read of anyone else encountering this. Mostly I'm concerned about the pressure it's putting on the inlet hose and the torque on the IC putting pressure on the end tank seams. It's as if the housing is too far forward and a little twisted.

 

Re: my post above. I spoke with Bryan today and just sent him some photos of where I thought the figment was a little off. He is going to investigateto see if something is off between the vf40 and his new housing. stand up guy, couldnt ask for more.

600 miles on my rebuild, can't wait to get off the limp map and see what the 16g will do!

Thanks M Sprank, good to know someone else has seen this.

Is your UP attached to the brackets that are supposed to go between it and the head?

Yes. That's why I'm questioning why everything is a little askew. It's as if some of the bolt holes in the base of the turbo housing are a little too far to the rear, and the turbo outlet bolt holes for the IC are rotated a little.

I was wondering if anyone else with the new housing has noticed this. When installing my 16g I really had to force it forward into the intake hose in order for the turbo housing to match up on the uppipe and brackets. Then when installing the stock intercooler we really had to twist/force the IC to match up with its mounting holes ( the inlet from the turbo and the bracket on the driver side). Lastly the engine cover holes no longer line up squarely with the front bracket and the intercooler holes. I haven't read of anyone else encountering this. Mostly I'm concerned about the pressure it's putting on the inlet hose and the torque on the IC putting pressure on the end tank seams. It's as if the housing is too far forward and a little twisted.

Thanks to my cobb AP, the process of elimination, and this thread I was able to fix my P0021.

If you can change the timing belt you can easily do this r&r ( with a hefty 10mm Allen wrench and a cheater bar).

 

I was getting no avcs advance so this thread led me to the avcs plunger sticking. I did not see any debris in mine, but there was some sludge in the corners. I worked the plunger til it moved nicely and then reassembled with some oil inside. I have not seen torque specs for the 6 bolts, but to remove them took 12 NM for the smaller diameter and 20 NM for the larger, so that's what I used for assembly. Pep Boys had a 1/4" drive T30 tamper proof torx plus (5 lobes) for $5. The bolts aren't tamper proof, just 5 lobed. Part number 9687.

I tried to prime it by turning the engine over with no fuel, but it still took a mile before it started working.

Thanks Underdog, you made this doable for me!

Another one ordered and paid, for my 16G and Cryotune!