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K2e2vin

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Posts posted by K2e2vin

  1. I didnt have to do anything to my intake cams or anything at all.

     

    I think that only applies to the older motors /STi motors. The version 7 and 9 motors we were talking about are EJ207s. The EJ20X is a JDM Legacy engine? I remember looking at different ECU maps and do remember the Legacies started using 32-bit before the STi though.

  2. Alex which version did you put in. I plan on eventually doing the V7 because the single acvs but i heard u need to change the intake cam?

     

    I did the version 9; basically like the version 7. If you can get away with running a 16-bit ECU, then you can keep the original cam, but will need a regular cable throttle. If you want to use your stock 32-bit ECU/DBW, then yes, you need to swap at least the intake cams and use the original LGT cam sensors. The 16-bit cams use "teeth" trigger and a VR sensor, while the 32-bit cams use slots and a hall-sensor. The cam timing teeth are also different(I know this because I tried using a signal converter, which didn't work).

     

    There's several work-arounds regarding the driver's side cam sensor. I've seen slotting out the original bore(do this while when changing out the cam) and also tilting the sensor to read the marks. I used a smaller-diameter "pencil" hall sensor and just mounted it off-set in the bore, and use some spacers and rubber washers to help seal the bore. On the passenger side, you can just slot-out the hole on the sensor itself.

  3. Looks like they should fit. The picture shows them on Legacy roof rails.

     

    Looking at that picture, I'd kind of disagree. Compare to the OEM Legacy aero crossbar; http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4088314&postcount=47 That Outback bar on the Legacy doesn't sit as low and there's gaps all over the top part(pressure points and less friction if that's an issue).

     

    This is an Outback crossbar on an Outback:

    http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/attachments/parts-accessories-performance/27632d1362164898-oem-cross-bar-woes-pic1.jpg

     

    It may work(as in not fly off), but I don't think it fits as intended.

  4. Not sure if they'll work but the Outback does indeed have different roof rails(they're raised as opposed to the the Legacy which is "flush").

     

    If you're patient, kijiji should be fine but you have to keep in mind that's basically like Craigslist for us U.S. guys. I basically gave up on OEM bars and got a hitch instead; though Whispbars look pretty good.

  5. Something is loose or bad mount? All I can think of, is when moving the torque causes either the engine/transmission or rear differential to twist, and the pop is coming from that.
  6. I actually prefer a tall shifter(closer to the steering wheel), but I'm sure a Cobb STS would fix that and in the end up costing the same or less with a better(shorter) throw. I guess I'll go for the 08+ STi shifter!

     

    Thanks!!!

  7. Thanks! I just wanted to know since used STi stuff seem easier to find than Spec B parts.

     

    I guess I'm a liar regarding asking more questions, as I've ran into more confusing info:

    Also, a little bit of information for those that get an STi shift linkage. You can buy a 07+ Spec B stay rod and shifter rod so that it puts the shifter in the center of the console opening. You will reuse the STi shift lever and reverse lockout cable as well as the rubber boot thing on the bottom. If you plan on upgrading to an aftermarket shifter and are using the STi shift linkage, only 04-07 STi lever will work as after having a discussion and sending pictures to Tom @ Kartboy, he said that only the 04-07 STi shift lever will work with the STi linkage setup.

     

    Part #'s for those that have STi shift linkages and want to center their shifters without cutting/welding/spacing:

     

    Spec B Shifter Rod: 35041AG020

    Spec B Shifter Stay: 35031AG020

     

    Would using Spec B rod/stay apply only to using 04-07 STi/SpecB lever?

     

    If using an +08 shifter assembly; all I would need to change out is the stay rod? Also, in the original post, it says to use Spec B reverse lockout cable; can you confirm whether a regular 04-07 STi or +08 STi cable will work(basically; would a complete +08 assembly with new stay work perfectly fine and provide a shorter throw)?

     

    Again, thank you VERY much! You've been very helpful answering my questions and I truly appreciate it.

  8. Thank you very much guys! OK, LAST question; I was looking at short shifters(initially the SPT Spec B one); then started looking at Cobb units and such and noticed they had a specific one for Spec Bs. Do you guys know what the actual difference between the 04-07 STi and the Spec B lever is?
  9. Thanks Scooby!

     

    Would the R160 yoke swap over or is there any way to retain the R180 yoke? I'm just trying to avoid "excess parts"(I have the STi axles and driveshaft too so if I can just swap or build a hybrid driveshaft that would be better)

     

    Also, is the Spec-B differential mount specific to the Spec-B or would any (R180)work?

  10. Digging through both of the threads, the 2.5i's all have 4EATs?

     

    Also, every thread suggests using a Spec B rear diff which has the R160 yoke; does this mean an STi rear differential would need modification too?

     

    *I have a complete setup from a JDM '07 STi; car I have is a '05 LGT/5mt. From what I gather all I need is the reverse lock-out cable, driveshaft(2.5i 4EAT fine?), and Spec-B axles(meaning I should have everything else already)?

     

    Thanks!

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