ToRealEyes

Thanks! Hey Mike. Long time to see from our San Diego days. We moved across the country to NC and got this Tribeca just before our 3rd was born. Going to find something a bit larger to accommodate our family of 6 now!

Posted on CarGurus and our FB marketplace now... of course OBO for our Legacygt peeps or referrals. 

Got ours listed for sale on the Tribeca forums, going onto CarGurus soon if you all know anyone looking for one! Well cared for as expected from an LGT.com oldie. 3.6R, all in great shape. Would be great as an all terrain modded Subaru. Completely stock with OEM everything.

Add-ons include Inno Crossbars and Curt 2" Trailer Hitch and wiring harness.

https://www.sb9t.com/threads/fs-nc-2014-subaru-tribeca-fully-loaded-98k-miles-in-ice-silver-metallic.5247/#post-40112 

Finally got around to doing this in our 6mt. In addition to more predictable engagement and drive-ability, it makes the car feel a bit quicker between shifts, prob because I no longer 'fish' for the catch point to engage smoothly.

The install was a PITA, but worth it. Thanks to reeg and Joe for documenting this!

Covert, good stuff! What tires did you go with for 235/55R17? We have been running the same size for a year now. I think it's a balanced comfort/cruising/handling tire size option for our gen Outback.

Funny, we finally swapped out the brakes I've been hoarding over the past 2 years. A bit different route than you, but I went ahead and used:

-larger 3.6R/GT/2015+WRX rotors/calipers on front (old 11.6" -> 12.4")

-hair larger but ventilated 3.6R/GT/2013+BRZ rotors/calipers on rear (old 11.3" -> 11.4")

OEM pads all around, but on some DBA front and KNS 4K rear rotors.

Everything fit perfectly, and makes good use of the 235 width tire on moderate/hard braking. Too soon to tell its effect on my MPG's.

People like us like to find a reason to 'fix' the car, probably because it seems there's always room for improvement!

Sounds like more tuning is next on your to-do list..

Ahhhh!!!! She's trapped!!!

Instead of repairing, swap it out for a high lift jackshaft opener! Looks like you have a pretty tall ceiling there..

There is a TSB Foresters and Crosstrek. Might want to dig a little deeper.

You're right, I found a TSB (11-174-17R) that sounds like what you're referring to, but only for the following:

2015-2017MY Legacy and Outback

2015-2017MY WRX

2017MY Forester.

Were you (or anyone with a manual transmission 5th gen Legacy or 4th gen Outback) able to get this ECM update?

If only we got to try a diesel Subaru or Mazda here in the states..I think we'd be fine with that style of power delivery for the right type of car/truck/suv.

Our feeling about the Ascent is that it will sell well if marketed well. One of its possible target markets (late 20’s growing up watching the bugeye wrx come to the states) is at the limit of their patience waiting for a Subie with more seatbelts. We might eventually get one. Wife doesn’t like driving two cars when friends/family visit and go on outings together.

Low redline is no prob for this type of car. Give me those max power numbers on a near flat curve from 2k-5.5k, that’ll be just fine.

Hey a rev hang conversation, can confirm it’s in the 6mt outback/legacy, even with the newest ECU update. The update didn’t do squat to eliminating the rev hang ‘feature’ let’s call it.

So far a custom tune also hasn’t done squat to get rid of it.

Its asking price is more than I'd pay for an older used/possibly abused Subie without service records. Looks like this car spent the majority of its life in the cold NE.

There is this report available for free through the used lot's website. Might help a bit:

https://www.carfax.com/VehicleHistory/p/Report.cfx?make=SUB&vin=110|112|118|-115|-62|-39|-92|-5|66|41|13|75|116|59|97|-105|-116|-94|-60|124|-89|-113|38|119|&dealer_id=70554905&car_id=469901349&partner=ATD_W

Maybe someone local on the peninsula can check it out for you...

Yep, for example, I'm no longer allowed to buy things to 'stock up'. Just no space to store it. Until the one hopeful day we move to a home with some property, garage, maybe workshop.

On second thought, maybe I can still justify a 25ft spool. I'll just use your rough estimate of ~10ft for each of our cars and whatever leftover for my parents' car.

See, this is why I appreciate your posts. Makes me think a bit more about everything.

Thanks for posting this up. I'll do this on our outback.

For folks who don't have space to store extra wire on a spool, would something prebuilt like this would work instead of buying a spool and end connectors?

https://www.farmandfleet.com/products/g--3302-deka-4-gauge-switch-to-starter-cable.html

It's true. I recently replaced a front wheel bearing on my in-law's 2006 325i. They said it sounded like driving over gravel above 60mph. I insisted they let me replace it asap.

Is this the type of noise you're talking about?

On another note, do you reckon the Outback's wheel bearing lasted 'long enough'? The previous gen Legacy had a TSB on prematurely failing wheel bearings. No longer an issue on this gen and beyond?

Part of the problem with a rebuilt title is you are never going to know for sure just how messed up it was or wasn't. Often times these cars are totaled because of the amount of damage to the frame in addition to axle, joints, and body. If the frame isn't straight or was damage but fixed you should never track the car. It's dangerous. Also bent frame means you'll never have proper alignment or traction, good luck maintaining speed in a corner.

That's a great point. I must have been assuming or hoping that 'rebuilt' one might be mostly body, suspension, engine, etc. that insurance deemed too costly to repair. ie. stuff that we here like to upgrade/rebuild on our own anyways. Everything but the frame.

So are there really only a few hundred 2012's out there? Makes that red 2012 really tempting for $15k.

I really like the red one with 30k miles. Someone local should check it out to see if it's real. Maybe the owner just doesn't know correct details about the car. Not that I need another Subaru or car.

For a dedicated track car, rebuilt one could be a fun route! But I wouldn't touch it for normal road use.

Possible that this influx of LGTs might be from flood areas? Just curious.

While that is true (equivalent year/color/car with double that mileage goes for $21k around me), the lack of in depth info and pictures make it at least a little suspect.

"6 cylinders"

Likely too good to be true.

Good tips, thank you. I sprayed down all three for good measure.

The blue line has no carbon filter, yes. Still don't know what's blocking it up causing lots of vacuum. I'll keep digging. I think next is to take off the plastic cover and take a peek inside the throttle valve. Where else is there to look?

Chasing down that airflow problem...I got some CRC MAF sensor cleaner, put the MAF sensor in a small old but clean electronics baggie, and sprayed and swirled. The tiny sensor element looks a bit lighter apple juice colored now, and is more transparent than before cleaning. Carbon panel is also off. Throttle response is about the same, but it does pull better. My impression is easier acceleration most noticeable in lower RPMs. Grain of salt, this is after doing a log and drive in the WRX.

Here's today's run plotted with the first OEM run. I think a lot of the change could be attributed to a dirty sensor. Clean MAF together with the carbon panel delete produced A/F numbers that look a bit more as-expected. Also note the blue lines are base protune (not OEM).

I think we're getting somewhere..

Yup, I agree. That's a terrible predicament that could be easily prevented if it were just a basic maintenance item that's easily accessible. It's one of the last things I would have thought of had you not mentioned it.

Wix part number is #49012.

I'll get a picture of that secondary panel filter. It almost looks built-in, or at least not very easy to remove at first glance. I can't remember if my parents' '05 Legacy has the same. I couldn't find any pictures of it online either.

edit: I found some threads about it on the subaruoutback forum. I detest visiting that forum (and all Autoguide sponsored ones) if all possible. Looks like yahoomail and photobucket had a mutant baby with even more resource hogging ads.

Sounds like carbon impregnated media, not meant to be replaced, even though carbon filtration loses its effectiveness once its pores are saturated. The heck. Nice thought though, to prevent unburnt fuel from evaporating out of the intake path.

No part number, but here it is. Also found a thread here talking about it.

Ah right, the whole thing huh. I looked at the service manual, and it's funny that they say "Replace if the filter is clogged, or time for replacement has come." If I were to open it up to inspect, I think I'd just replace as well, after going through all the trouble already. I'm not seeing an interval on the schedule though...

Wix is pretty middle of the road, and adequate considering my short intervals (10-15k) anyway. Cost is less than 1/2 a new OEM Denso filter, so I went with the Wix filter to do some experimentation.

When I cracked open the airbox over the weekend, there was an additional filter screen/mesh panel between items (7) and (8), ie. after the panel filter.

I looked closer at the diagrams for the intake airbox for our year (2012), and what I saw doesn't appear on exploded view. I didn't try removing the mesh panel. from the rear of the airbox. Should I?

Re the misfires: I only logged a few misfires (total less than 3 over a few hours of driving) last winter on 87 gas, while driving in rain using my cheapo bluetooth ELM327 OBDII scanner. I chalked it up to just weird weather and bad gas. I haven't seen any misfires pop up yet during this new venture into tuning.

For the fuel filter, are you referring to the sock like screen that sits in the fuel tank on the fuel pump? I didn't see that as a line item on the maintenance schedule..

I think I can rule out intake as the culprit for now. Intake tract looked fine, and filter looked fine too. I replaced it with the Wix anyway. Couldn't get under the car to get a good look at the exhaust side of things.

What else have you done to optimize the intake/exhaust? What else are you seeing that might be warning flags? I'm all ears...

Here is a new chart with corrected car properties and a more descriptive legend. That negative boost (vacuum?), goes down to -6 psi and maxes out at -12.33 psi (-11 inHg to -23 inHg). I believe the plot is read off of the Manifold Relative Pressure (psi) parameter. Am I looking at the right place for clues?