Roche

Peep my banjo bolt filter..

Looks worse in the photo. Almost no crud in it at 125k miles. I was pretty surprised.

7 hours ago, Max Capacity said:

I'll agree with the thought of keeping the oil always topped off. Even after 150,000+ miles on the ej257, it had zero bearing noise. I always kept its oil full or a little over full. It saw redline probably more than most. And I was doing 7-8000 mile oil changes, using Amsoil.

I swear you got the most unique, reliable 2.5 gt in the world. You have a ton more miles than I last remember!

Wow what the hell? Looks like 4.5 quarts on the Rotella and that's if it's filled close to the top. I've used this for over a decade on turbo motors thinking it was 5 quarts....I'm dumbfounded!

I used the rest of the Rotella and magically, the dipstick shows full now.

How embarrassing.

I finally found another red wagon like my first and it's been taken care of well. 

I changed the oil 5 days ago with Rotella and the car has sat since. No oil has leaked. I checked the dipstick a few times and there's nothing on it. 

I am now worried to start it, but if I put 4.5 quarts in and it hasn't left the motor then why is the dipstick dry? Back when I had my GTs I brought them to a garage for all service so I'm not sure if this is a normal characteristic of these motors. 

Why is this my #1 question and concern when looking at GTs? I'm hoping to get back into a nice wagon but I always stress about that little mesh prick. Has it been removed? Changed? How many miles was it driven while clogged up?

Maybe I'm biased because it took out my last legacy. 

Ayway there's a list of things to go over before buying one, but I'm mostly concerned about that filter. 

Is my concern justified, or maybe I'm thinking into it too much?

put in amsoil 5w-30 yesterday and napa gold filter (wix equivelent). guy before put in catrol edge syntec and it came out pretty dark at 3800 but not sludgy

 

will check in on the amsoil periodically and maybe change it at 3800 or 4500

I hear good things about the Napa Gold filter so I think I'd go with that.

My friend swears on Amsoil. His Civics oil is great after 6k miles. But then again its a civic

Unfortunately the dealer won't do it, because its not "recommended by Subaru" I have to get its "recommended" service done in order to get my free tires. Which are bald.

So I could bring it in, get new tires, and then do the oil change myself and be set for a good 5k

But what do you guys think?

I could just go with Rotella T6 and a good filter to save the hassle but I do want that engine flush.

The flush can't hurt. I doubt it will help. Why do you think you need it ?

 

I use to use Gunk motor flush.

I hear it works well to keep the engine in good shape. I used to use it in my older cars and it slightly improved the way they ran.

I run Amsoil in everything I own and couldn't wait to run out the dino oil that was in my Legacy after I brought her home. As soon as I could I used the Amsoil engine flush and then proceded to fill with 5w30 Signature Series. Man,... that makes a motor quiet!

 

I drive 73 miles a day round trip from work and she now has about 12K on this oil change. Just for piece of mind I'll change it again before winter really hits, although the oil still looks and smells fine.

Nice, sounds like I'll pick up 5w30 signature series.

Is the engine flush (http://www.amsoil.com/catalog.aspx?GroupID=953)

like Engine Restore?

The only problem is I have to do it at the dealer and I know they won't do it right.

I'm thinking of going with Amsoil 0w-30 with Amsoil EA filter. It gets down to 35 degrees at night here now, and a high of about 70. In a few months it'll be below 0 to 30 degrees at night.

I wanted to go with Amsoil 0w40 but they say that's for four-stroke engines?

Has anyone used Amsoil and how do they like it?

I've got M1 full synthetic 5w30 in it now, but I'm hearing not so good things from it. Also, Amsoil can make your OCI last much longer than 3k

This is one of the most random, incredible, yet simple mods.

two thumbs up!

Don't mean to hijack the thread, I may have a similar problem with my car. I set the AC to the coldest setting which is 65 degrees.....but when I it take to 66 degrees it's warm as all heck. After maybe 20-30 minutes of continuous driving the AC finally kicks in for all the higher temperatures. Any Idea as to what the initial issue might be?

Same issue here. Mine becomes cold for a few seconds and then warm again and so on