nstg8r

Looky looky... another beast coming along!

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Auto-Master-AMR-ltd/133703916681281?fref=nf

Scroll down to the white E350

Putting in a Dry flow element but haven't touched the intake otherwise though. According to the Intake Mad Scientist (Perscitus) the stock intake will be just fine unless I'm looking for more high end power and I'm not just yet. (No track days for me for a bit)

 

Also rumor has it that Raptor is making a RAM AIR CAI for the 5th gen so I might just hold out for that.

Okay, 'cause I have my customized Takeda setup sitting in a box right now looking for a new home. I could drop it off with Rob if you guys wanted to do some R&D with it. I never really got the chance to do any tuning with Rob myself.

So much for hoping to getting the mods started quickly.

 

In addition Rob is trying to secure a set of headers from Tim but with Tim having to wait for his supplier, the date cannot be set in stone for delivery and as such I have still not been able to get a confirmation down on that.

 

So the mods will happen, I just haven't the foggiest idea when. Oh well *Shrug*

So, question; do you have an upgraded intake yet?

I turned this into an Outback thread. Oops!

 

Back on topic!

A 3.6r is a 3.6r is a 3.6r.

 

Legacy, tribeca, outback

This thread stopped being a 3.6R specific thread a long time ago.

 

At the 5.25K RPM intersection, she's making ~294-297bhp (206-209whp on DynoDynamics in Shoot44) and ~265ft-lbf wtq.

 

My new car which I'm picking up the 29th claims to have 302hp (@6500rpm) and 273ft-lbs (@3500-5250rpm). I'll bring it to Rob and see what it's really getting. His website already lists a tune for it that gains 25hp & 30ft-lbs.

Since I'm leasing the vehicle though, I'm probably not going to be doing any mods to it.

...

Check your PMs

Is there any way to change the clock in the dash on a 2011 to 24-hour time?

No

Okay, so reviving the oil catch can theme for a moment. I was under my hood today testing out bulbs on my battery when I happened to look at my Mishimoto catch can that's hooked up the the PCV line. The indicator tube shows that the can is about 1/3 full of oil. The can has a capacity of 16oz (1pt), but I do have it stuffed with stainless steel mesh which will add some displacement. So, I am going to say there's probably between 2-3oz of oil and stuff in there. When I get around to draining it, I'll know for sure, but that's about 1/8 of a pint that was kept out of my manifold. I know that ain't much, but for a NA car, it shows that the can actually does something.

Previous to this, I had only once before found oil in the catch can between oil changes, and that was my last oil change where I didn't use the Nanotech additive. After using the Nanotech for the next three oil changes, I had zero oil in the catch can. I had run out of the Nanotech, so it wasn't added last oil change, and after 6K miles, there's oil in the can again. So, there may be a correlation.

I pinged a few members with 2010 3.6Rs and faded replied that his ECU is stock.

nadracer has a tuned 2010, maybe his tuner has a backup of his stock ROM

I just had them retune my car. Send an email to sales at automasteramr.com

Or just call during working hours and ask for Rob.

Getting in touch with him is not the issue, it was a ROM issue with EcuTek and my '12; Rob was looking into it for me. But like I said, I didn't really follow up because of other non-car related projects that I've been spending my money on. That's also why I haven't been too active on the forum last couple months. This winter weather hasn't exactly cooperated either.

AMR has sensed your disturbance in the Shrek force and like it.

I never heard back from AMR, but it's just as well. I wound up dumping a bunch of money into a few non-car related projects as well as my upcoming trip to Fla. Maybe come May or June I'll give some more serious thought into getting it done.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=151579228350&alt=web

Wasn't really sure where to put this. Bit of a different look.

I have those from iJDMToy. I really like them.

Another possibility is that the de-coupling of the pcv line from the intake manifold did not allow that line to get "sucked" by the intake manifold and vapors were going in and out of the other pcv line (fresh air side).

 

If you disconnected or capped off the PCV line, then yeah, built up pressure will escape the path of least resistance. That's why we don't cap off both lines; the POLR would be your engine seals.

My point is that on my car with the engine revving, vapor comes out of the line that was attached to takeda intake tube.

 

 

Like I said, i couldnt tell if anything was happening to the other tube (originally connected to IM)

You may want to check your PCV valve.

I undid the catch can. I need to configure something different than was done for me.

 

While catch can was on (connected to what originally went to intake manifold), I pulled the tube from the intake and asked the wife to rev the engine.

 

The tube that connects to the intake does not such fresh air...it blows vapor. I could see it as I was in the shade. No way to see it with plenty of light.

 

So, I reconnected that hose and disconnected the one that was going to the intake manifold. With the engine revving, I couldn't tell if it was sucking or blowing or neither.

 

I now believe the best way to set up a catch can on this car is one of two ways:

1. two vented catch cans (one for each tube as I don't want to recirculate crud).

2. don't do a catch can (problem solved)

 

Nstg8r, I believe the reason you don't see anything in your catch can is that vapors are mostly coming from the tube that connects to the intake.

I have two cans; one connected to PCV, one to breather. I have had a little bit of oil in the PCV can, but nothing at all in the breather can. With no boost, I don't really expect to catch that much anyway.

Nstg8r, I get it now...you left the tube to the intake manifold because you didnt want to vent it out.

Exactly, and it allows the catch can to do what it is designed to do.

I dont want to place a catch can in line withe the pcv line going to intake manifold.

 

I want to disconnect that one and have it go directly to a catch can. So no vapors go to intake manifold at all.

 

Maybe I should try to get something straight.

1. The tube going to the intake manifold, does it have pressure or vacuum? I understood that it had pressure, so it can just go to a catch can and I can plug the hole in the intake manifold.

 

2. The line fron the afe intake, is that for fresh air into the crank case? If so, is there harm in putting a check valve that makes sure vapors dont get into the intake.

 

Maybe I am oversimplifying it.

None of this makes sense. If you have the PCV go to the catch can, where do it go from there, are you venting it into the atmosphere? That's illegal in California. If you're capping the outlet of the catch can instead, the how would vapors get in there? Think of it this way; get a straw and blow into one end with your finger plugging the other end.

As far as the check valve on the breather line; that's exactly what a PCV valve does but instead of going into the manifold post throttle body, the breather goes into the intake before the throttle body. The breather line is supposed to supply air to the crankcase, the PCV vents the vapors out. When the PCV valve is closed, like at idle, some vapors will enter the breather. The manifold creates the vacuum which pulls the air and vapors through the system. Cap it, and no air will circulate and pressure builds up in the crankcase.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/positive-crankcase-ventilation-system.htm

http://www.aa1car.com/library/pcv.htm

http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/197

The plan is to install a catch can for only one tube. The tube that is connected to the intake manifold... The port on the intake manifold will get plugged.

That's the PCV line. If you place the OCC in line with that, how can you plug the port on the intake manifold? Where would the OCC vent to?

The tube that is connected just before the TB (to the afe intake), that is just for fresh air to the crank case. The plan is to put a one-way check valve so air only goes in...not out.

That's exactly what the PCV valve does already. With your setup the way it's described, your crankcase will have no way to release the pressure built up and you'll probably blow a bunch of engine seals and/or gaskets.

Mine was just a metal jug with in and out. I added mesh to it but it's not catching anything. I'm currently hooked up to the breather line and I'm gonna switch to the pcv line to see what that does.

Mine was the same (Mishimoto - non-baffled version). I stuffed mine with stainless steel wool. I also added a tube to the "In" port that extends to about half way down in the can to force the vapors to go up through the ss wool before exiting the can. My homemade one is of similar design.

Ideally you buy 2 catch cans, one for the breather line connected to the intake and one for the pcv connected to the intake manifold.

Which is why I have two. But to be honest, neither are catching much of anything.

For my catch can i just put it in line with the line running to the cai right before the throttle body.

That's the breather line.

I am boping to just sonnect them if possible.

 

Nstg8r, what about the tube that is toward the front of the car on the drivers side?

 

May I run that and the one connected to the takeda into a dual catch can?

 

Remeber that the boomba TB does not have any ports...all this is assuming I can use the TB.

The throttle body has nothing to do with the catch cans. The pcv/breather lines connect to the intake tube and the intake manifold. I wouldn't cross or combine those lines.