jmaddocks

That was my motto during the build... might as well while I'm in there.

Same here -- my builder recommended a valve job (I was at ~117k) while I had the heads off, which was a minor expense compared to the rest of the build. New valve buckets got a little expensive and were not in my original budget, though (I swapped a few with my builder but had to buy five or six new ones)

I bought mine on NASIOC. I've heard folks say that you just check with you local subie shop/tuner as it is speculated that they have them laying around form the STI folk who upgrade.

Other comments... Recommend having your heads rebuilt or freshened up if you're going through the trouble of building up a nice short block. My tuner said I'd need to upgrade to larger injectors (and fuel pump) with an 18g or 20g...ymmv. I used a $55 diy delete kit and die grinder, very happy with results. Take your BOM estimate and multiply by 1.3 to cover other costs (e.g. break-in tune for ~$150) and unknowns.

My $.02

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I could be very wrong, but I believe the part number you'd want is FJK1001-HD-O.

Yep, that's the correct part number for the 'daily' version. I'm using the 'endurance' version (FJK1001-HD-OFE) with a stock flywheel; very happy with it so far.

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Jmaddocks - if you haven’t learned already... there are a couple other things to keep an eye on. I just ran into a small hiccup. Make very well sure you silicone the hell out of the upper oil pan around the internal bolt. It doesn’t exactly mate up perfectly and I painfully discovered an oh-so-significant oil leak. And there is no bung for the Oil level switch wires to secure to the block, away from the exhaust. I am in the process of making a mounting tab for it. Will try and post pics of what I’m talking about in the near future

Thanks!! My project got delayed due to travel and other projects, so I'm just getting around to putting the engine in the car (got delayed last weekend because I had accidentally ordered SOHC cam bolts).

I noted the lack of a bung for the oil level switch wires -- good to hear I'm not going crazy.

Thanks for the heads up on the upper oil pan. I'll take a look at that. Not looking forward to disassembling, cleaning, and resealing everything, but it's obviously a lot better doing that on the engine stand.

You would have had to order the shortblock from Subaru, otherwise an ej255 is an ej255 to the subaru world.

Okay, that makes me feel a little better.

Have you installed your motor yet? Do you recall approximately how long the studs were that you used? And have you come across any other fitment issues? The guy building the motor is wanting me to send my motor in to get built rather then he send a ready to go EJ255. I know it’s the best route to take to keep costs down, but time is a factor on my end.

I have not installed the motor, but everything else has been exactly the same as my stock block. I don't have the length of the studs. That said, I just went out to my shop and removed the engine mount bracket to take a picture of the bolts and studs:

Hope that helps.

If you ordered anything other than the block for a fifth gen that is what you will be dealing with. Our engine is unique.

 

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I'm in the process of building up an IAG stage 1 short block (forged pistons, upgraded bearings, balanced/blueprinted) for my LGT, along with ARP head studs and STI cams in my original heads, which I had rebuilt.

The LGT uses a different upper oil pan, as mentioned earlier. However, I was surprised to discover that two of the four forward mounting holes don't line up, and the block casting is slightly different to account for those hole locations. Also, other models use m6 bolts to mount the oil pan; ours has four m8 bolts at the front, I'm assuming for the engine mount load path. I had to drill and tap two holes in my shiny new block. :-( I filled the two unused holes with JB weld to minimize stress risers.

There's not enough metal to tap all four for m8 bolts. I tapped two mounting holes for m8 and actually used studs instead of bolts, installed with red loctite. Unfortunately I had to use m6 bolts for the other two locations. In the end, I'm comfortable with the load path but imagine I could have problems with a really stiff or solid front engine mount.

Hope that made sense. Just a heads up for others who try to use a non-LGT block. I'm sure this has been mentioned elsewhere, but I didn't see it.

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No assumption necessary, it's been mentioned several times.

To clarify, I didn't know if there was an upper end to the STI model years (i.e., 2008-20xx), and I didn't see that. Sorry if I missed it.

You'll pick up lots of midrange torque but the turbo will still fall on it's face up top. For sure you'll have to re-tune for the cams.

That's what I figured, but my wife will kill me if I buy an 18G along with the $3k+ engine rebuild, so it'll have to wait...

Just curious how everyone else has settled on their rear and front settings. Right now I am at 1/2 turn on either, but really want to firm up the rear to get less lean when turning into a turn. Like a band aid for the rsb, would that work?

I have mine a little stiffer in the rear than the front for that very reason. Can't remember the settings off the top of my head, but the car handles neutrally without being uncomfortable.

So many different ones on our cars but this is a great place to get them. http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Push_Type_Retainers_At_Clipsandfasteners_com_s/154.htm?searching=Y&sort=13&cat=154&show=45&page=1&search=%20Subaru

You can also get packs of clips from them via Amazon Prime. Just FYI.

Edit: darnit...just realized JLGT basically said the same thing two posts above...

We lived in Yuma, AZ for about five years, which is west of Phoenix on the CA-AZ border. My wife always loved AZ and keeps talking about moving back there someday. I'm actually flying her to Phoenix this afternoon and then driving her to a fancy lodge in Sedona for her birthday this weekend -- it's a surprise, so don't tell her.

Of course, this just happens to be the one weekend out of the year when it's going to be raining the whole time...it's actually going to be colder in Sedona than where we live in CO...plus snow...

Just ordered a South Bend Stage 2 Endurance, flywheel bolts, and pressure plate bolts. Will also install ARP head studs as (relatively) cheap insurance while the engine is out.

What's the consensus on changing the rear main seal if it's not leaking? Thanks.

Thanks for the write-up, as I'm due for a clutch change soon. When I was changing my water pump a few weeks ago, I briefly considered continuing with the engine pull to replace the clutch as well, but my fun meter was pegged. Good to hear that the hood doesn't need to be removed, and the A/C lines can stay connected to the compressor.

That said, is it about the same amount of work to drop the tranny out the bottom? TIA