wai_pang2

I've had it on for 2 months and its been holding up. I've spend less than $10. I won't be keeping this car long enough to see how it holds up but I'm sure it will last.

I just took a look at all the bushings, they are shot. I've also order the trailing arm bushings. Are you replacing the sub-frame bushings too?

The most difficult part was removing all the nuts and bolts for the spindle/trailing arms, I had to cut the lower strut bolts. dropping the sub-frame and fuel tank was the easy part. Now, I have to transfer the pump and lines to the new tank.

 

This project started life as the complicated job of replacing all bushings in the rear subframe and maybe painting the subframe. Also I am going to weld on reinforcing plates for the sway bar mounts (cheaper than buying)

 

Good luck with this project, I am in a similar situation, difference is I'm replacing the fuel tank. While the subframe is out, I will also be replacing all bushings. What started all this was constantly getting minor fuel leak code (forgot the exact code). What I originally thought was a corroded fuel fill neck turned out to be broken barb nipple coming off the fuel tank.

I don't want to further hijack your thread and let me get to the point of responding to your thread.

This is only a suggestion but there is no need to weld a plate to reinforce the rear sway bar bracket, I used straight strut bracket. You can buy this at Lowes or Homedepot. The bracket is only bolted on through the top hole with a big washer as the hole that is there is too big for only a nut and bolt. I've also only drilled one other hole to line up with the sway bar bracket

not bad looking. I have a set of megan racing coilovers from an outback, it just needs to be rebuild.

One question though, how would you go about recalibrating the speedometer after up-sizing the tires? Would it be as simple as replacing the vss from an outback? I went into Romraider to see if they had this a table for this, but apparently, no.