blaugranamd

So found some random nuts and bolts and bolted the top half of the cat heat Shield back on to exhaust shield just forward of the cat. Back end is just resting on the pipe behind the cat but should hold and maybe rattle a bit at least until I can get a new lower half. I don't park over anything flammable so should be pretty safe now yes?

Fix one problem on this car and another one shows up. Had an occasional clicking sound the last two days then on my drive home today a loud clang, felt like I ran over something metal, and watched a piece of something get left behind on the highway. Get under the car once I got home and the bottom half of the catalytic converter heat shield is missing and the other half is just resting on the pipe not connected to anything. Obviously removed it by just lifting it off. How essential is replacing this stupid thing? Any safety issues?

Yup. Mine broke completely after a few months at the ball joint. Ironically it stopped making noise then, lol. Fix video I used below. And yes, I had to use an angle grinder on one of the bolts like this guy did... 2 hours and $40 later no noise and notably better handling

Found the problem incidentally when I just happened to park my car with the wheel turned out far enough that I could see the blue internal cap on the sway bar linkage exposed. The clunking actually stopped about a week ago, probably when the sway bar link broke. Got it fixed today!

How might I diagnose that? Why might that go from no noise to every drive immediately after engine work unless it was damaged dropping the car off the jack? To be clear on what I'm hearing in a 5 minute drive to daycare in the morning I might hear a single bang/pop sound typically when just transitioning onto the accelerator gently. Never hear this once in the highway. It does, rarely, shift a bit rough when very cold the first shift or two but this is quite different. That typically gives a little Friday in power and the engine revs slip upward a tad. This is just a pop out of nowhere

Hey all. So after dealing with a screaming banshee of a power steering system again this year winter I went ahead and pulled the vacuum line and reservoir off the car to replace all of the spring clamps as I have seen recommended in a number of places to try and fix this problem. In the process there probably was a small amount of automatic transmission fluid that got onto various parts in the engine despite my best efforts to avoid this. I also as part of the bleeding process, as I've seen recommended in other places, i turned the engine over with the ignition key while the spark plug wires were disconnected for about 1 second 3 times to help Purge any air out of the power steering compressor while I was turning the wheel with the engine off to bleed the system after reconnecting everything. Everything seems like it's been reconnected appropriately however since the repair I've noticed I'm getting a loud metallic banging noise particular when beginning to accelerate out of a turn at low speeds. I get one loud bang that sounds almost like metal hitting the ground but there is nothing hanging off the bottom of the car. Seem to be getting any about 4 of these on a typical 20 minute drive to work the last 3 days. Only one on the highway that seemed to come farther back in the car. I can't seem to replicate this while idling and revving the engine. I'm not sure what the next step is going to be in trying to fix this. Did I just foul up the plugs by turning the engine over without the wires connected and I'm getting a little backfiring or something else? I'm fairly confident at least a small amount of automatic transmission fluid from the power steering system got onto one of the oxygen sensors on the exhaust system underneath. Any help would be greatly appreciated oh, thanks! Car: 2009 Legacy 2.5i, 126k mi, spark plugs replaced 20k mi ago

Doesn't this system bleed itself though? Turning the wheel with the wheels up runs fluid without pressure through the system and the bubbles just rise out on the reservoir? I ran that fluid through probably a dozen times?

No, this technique. http://strongforsubaru.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/How_to_bleed_Subaru_Power_Steering_systems.pdf

Yup, exacerbated/brought out the problem. Popped it back up on the jack stands, ran it through the engine off, lock to lock, crank engine (plug wires pulled), lock to lock, crank... repeat about 10 times. Got a good amount of bubbles out initially. What has me more worried is even with it running quietly, there's a pretty intense "shudder" moving the wheels slowly with the engine one while on the jack stands. i had a video but my phone destroyed it. Is it time to throw in the towel and get the pump swapped out?

So seems drastically improved. However, still seems like anytime I bump the wheel locks (like backing out of a tight parking spot) the PS pump squeals at the lock then is mad the rest of the drive. Is this just maybe a minor leak that only comes out when the pump is putting max suction on the line?

So I reseated the o ring again, this time put it on the elbow, hand torqued the elbow (had been using my impact driver on the low setting...). Bled the system with the engine off and wheels up, seemed to still make a lot of sloshing and gurgling. Unplugged the spark plug wires and turned it over a few times, worked the wheel, turned over engine, repeated a few more times. No whine this morning and no foam after driving to work, which is a big improvement from yesterday's banshee screech and overflowing foamed fluid on arrival at work. Still a bit of stutter when quickly moving the wheel back and forth but better than it had been. Hopefully some driving time will finish bleeding out whatever air might still be in there. Keep you posted.

So went through that purge routine and there was a nice gurgle at each lock when I got it and when I let it go. Never got the fluid to stay level. Noted some pooled ATF just behind the PS pump that wasn't there before and what looks like fresh leak around the elbow joint from the vacuum hose... I don't know what to do next

I have read both: better to put the o ring in the pump opening and better to put on the elbow. Maybe I just need to do a better purge with the engine off? I don't want to just keep popping that elbow off every few days and resetting the o ring indefinitely. Gonna try this bleeding method today as I had been just starting it up and racking the wheel: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://strongforsubaru.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/How_to_bleed_Subaru_Power_Steering_systems.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwi2pfSZw6rZAhXGtVkKHTTyCycQFggnMAE&usg=AOvVaw1tcMYvQP5OCd9NekzNQRRQ

That's what I thought. With the only connections being the reservoir to hose, hose to banjo, banjo to pump intake there's only 3 places this can leak then, yes?

It's not so much that it's noisier at the locks, it's that when I hit the locks, it gets noisy and stays noisy throughout the range afterwards. The noise doesn't worry me as much as the stuttering steering wheel... Have put 2 quarts of fluid through the system. Pulled some out now and the fluid looks identical in clarity to the fresh fluid. Is it safe to assume that if air is entering the system while it's running that it has to be somewhere between the reservoir output connection and the pump intake connection? This is the only place where the line should be in a vacuum state, everything beyond that should be high pressure and fluid should go out, rather than air going in and even if the air is getting in beyond the pump, it would self-bleed when it hits the reservoir? Also, for the vacuum lines, can I use micro gear clamps to replace the spring clamps? Just to make sure the line connections are ok?