rdleg05

those look great.  I guess you didnt get the center caps painted because of the stickers.  again thanks, they accent the Crosstrek nicely.

cheers

 

rdleg05

great thread......thanks for keeping the hybrids going.

Asking for help from the community here. I purchased a set of used Subaru Blitzen rims. The rims are in good condition but previous owner (in japan) had the clip on/snap on wheel weights attached to the outer face of the rim. this caused corrosion on the outer lip. The rims do not have curb rash, but do have this corrosion that has cut through the original paint.

 

 

Question: does anyone know the original color and color code for the rims?

 

I saw a thread where camroncamera had showed some color sheets with Subaru colors/color codes, but I cannot find the thread. Interwebz searches doesnt bring anything up.

 

 

cheers,

 

rdleg05

update--the saga continues:

 

so based off subisubisu's reply I received, I did the following: I put test light in series with negative pole and negative battery cable and pulled every fuse. There was still current being drawn as test light was still lit. Then just for the heck of it, I put the multimeter in series measure milliamperes and it read zero. At first it read about 10 milliamps then it reduced/read 0 in 10 seconds.

 

So now a little confused now: multimeter reads 0, but the test light shows current by lighting up.

 

NORULZleggy--i have the a/c control that is not the auto control system with temperature/one control. I put a cd in and loaded it and then ejected it. nothing hung up there. With pulling the fuses, one by one and then checking for current I guess I isolated the radio/ac system.

 

 

more research and diagnosing to continue tomorrow as we had a thunderstorm suddenly come up and force me inside and then it got dark....

I am chasing what seems to be a parasitic current draw on the 09 Legacy 2.5i Limited that my daughter drives.

 

Two days ago, she went to start the car and we had a no crank condition. Starter would click, but no crank. Put battery on a fast 50amp charge to see if the battery needed to be charged. No change after two hours--no crank with starter only clicking. Finally got car to crank and start by jump starting from my trusty 97 Legacy GT.

 

Using a test light, in series with the negative battery post and negative cable, the test light lights-up showing a current draw. Then using a multimeter testing for voltage drop across the fuses in engine bay and the fuses under driver side panel (see YT video from Humblemechanic on parasitic draw) I read no voltage draw. Hmm......

 

Yesterday, I took battery to Advance Auto to test and it tested ok with no dead cells indicated or reduced cranking amps. Original battery under warranty--so i changed it out for new battery (35-1 series with 550 cranking amps), let it slow charge while I was at work today and installed. Again checked for current draw with the test light and it lights up (yes to current draw); then I go back and check all fuses and get no indication of voltage reading.

 

 

So currently trying to do more research into diagnosing the condition. Last thing I need is to let her drive car with a parasitic current draw and force a no crank condition or have to go and jump start the car.

 

 

rdleg05

It is doable; the one thing you have to match is the final drive ratios of the transmission to the rear diff. Not all transmissions models in Legacy's have the same final drive ratios.

 

 

cheers

rdleg05

Its built into the tube that exits the air cleaner housing and connects to the intake. You should be able to loosen the large band clamp from the MAF tube to intake and then open the air cleaner box (like you are changing air filter) and lift up the backing of the air cleaner container which has the tube with the MAF in it.

 

 

cheers

rdleg05

take a look at the front bushing on the lower control arm (LCA). My daughters car had similar death wobble. We did all the things focused around tire rotation/balance/etc......turned out to be the front bushing had deteriorated so much that the steel sleeve that goes around the securing bolt under high speed would move in the front LCA. To check it-- put a pry-bar on the front part of the LCA and see if you get any movement as you pry on the LCA. We had the bushing pressed out and new one installed--death wobble no more.

 

In the attached picture, the busing is labeled 9.

 

 

cheers

rdleg05

look at this site for wiring colors and what they go to along with pin-outs https://www.surrealmirage.com/vrg3/bcstereo/

 

 

cheers

rdleg05

the fuse appears to be in the engine bay fuse box (driver side of the engine bay). You are looking for fuse#25. see the attached diagram.

 

 

That fuse also provides power to other systems in the car. If other systems are still powered up or the fuse is good, I would look at the switch.

 

 

cheers

rdleg05

concern would be having to refill the brake fluid reservoir three times in one year. could point to a leak. have you looked at your calipers and the brake lines?

kwatson9316 sounds like the PCV valve hose and connector that leads from the belhousing to the plastic connector and then tot eh PCV valve which screws into the intake manifold on passenger side. attached parts drawing provides schematic for what I'm talking about and closest hose conenction on passenger side. see part # 6 for the plastic tree that hoses connect to. part # 8 is the hose that probably disintegrated (it gets hard an d brittle from heat cycles) and part # 2 is the hose that connects to PCV on the intake.

 

 

opposedforces.com is a great website for drawings/part numbers for our cars.

 

 

cheers

rdleg05

ok, let me text you. I'm the dude that bought the UEL NA headers from you a while back........

 

 

interested to see if they will work.

 

 

cheers rdleg05

does your 2.2 have the old style PS pump with the PS fluid reservoir attached to the top of the pump?

 

 

also what year is your parts car. trying to compare part numbers by years.

Looking for the power steering hard lines that run from steering rack (passenger side) to the PS pump.

 

 

 

Mine are leaking from the pressure fitting where the hardlines transition to flexible line.

 

 

 

car is 97 Legacy GT

the tubes are sold individually.

 

opposedforces.com is a great website that provides subaru sepcific diagrams for parts/components on our cars with matching parts numbers.

 

specific to our second gen Legacies is the following url: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_4/

 

if you navigate down to steering and then to power steering gear box diagram, you will see the diagram for the steering rack. part# 35 is the one that you referenced in your picture. scroll down and you will see part number for it. copy/paste part number and the word "subaru" in a new search tab/window and you can see if it is still available and cost.

 

Where is the leak coming from: the connection along the rack tube or at the connection near the input shaft. Most likely this will entail removing the rack to repair as the flare nut near the input shaft is very hard to get while onthe car and you risk rounding the flare nut......ask me how I know......

 

 

cheers

rdleg05

it looks like a very well kept and nice car. whats wrong with the engine?

 

 

cheers

rdleg05

WTB: (MD) NA ej25d DOHC CAM sprockets both intake and exhaust

 

 

Bought a 98 Legacy GT Wagon that had the CAM sprockets on the passenger head disintegrate and need to get replacements. Would like to get all four CAM sprockets (pass intake/exhaust and driver intake/exhaust) as I dont trust the integrity of the sprockets on the driver side (as well).

 

 

tried looking in the local Crazy Rays (Baltimore/Edgewood/Mount Airy) but no joy in finding a NA ej25d to pull from.

 

PM is the best way to reach.

 

 

cheers/

 

rdleg05

131,000 on my 97 Legacy 2.5GT Sedan. Got it from a friend in Idaho in July 2012.

 

cheers

 

rdleg05