mtnbiker3000

You can get a new one from Koni, they should send it to you free of charge. I will see if I have the contact info still.

 

Don't think I forgot anything, especially on the rears. There wasn't too many pieces to begin with. The only thing I can think of is that when the assemblies were complete, the top isolator rubber was kind of molded to the old springs and when the new ones went on, they didn't mold as nicely since they are a different shape. So, the tophats were kind of at an angle due to this. I'm thinking the completed assemblies went in with the tophats at opposing angles. But, wouldn't that eventually settle once the rubber molds to the new springs?

Normally this is because one of the lower spring seats is installed upside down.

 

I know... but I double checked each side before installing, and I'm positive each side is correct. Could it be the orientation of the perch on the strut body? In other words the coil end on one side was facing the outside of the car and on the other it was facing the inside??

So after my install of Koni yellows with Tein H springs, my right rear is sitting about an inch higher than the left rear. I know for a FACT that the lower perch is not on upside down on either side. But I know the orientation was different as far as which direction the perches were facing. Did I screw this up?? Can't think of what else it could be??

Using rear saggy butt shims?

 

Hahahahaha. Why yes I do...

Hmmm. I dunno. I stick the key in and it won't engage the adjustment fitting at all. I can spin the key around with it sitting flush with the body and nothin'

I'm not sure if the Metro wheel stud is correct. The proper size is the one that matches the thread pitch and bolt diameter of the nut on the current top hat.

 

This stud worked perfect. Perfect length, thread pitch and tapped right into place...

If you have a sedan, it's not too short.

 

I disagree. I have a sedan, and I can tell you 100% it IS too short!! Needle nose pliers will be a b*tch based on the amount of room back there. Think I will check the DIY

^^ Thanks.

 

Anyone figured out how to adjust the rear Koni's as the supplied key is to short??

So just to clarify... It is a M10 X 1.25 X 29mm. At Napa, it's a wheel stud for a 1994-2000 Metro.

 

Does it matter which way the lower perch faces on the rear Koni's?? Doesn't seem like it would... I wasn't to careful about the orientation on the first one.

 

Side note: The black bolt provided by Koni to secure the bottom of the insert in the strut assembly was cracked across the bolt head from the center to the edge Didn't notice it until the assembly was completed...

Seems short and fat to me, but i guess it's the one. Definitely fatter than the fronts. Haven't checked the backs yet. Just want to be all set for swapping on Saturday. Will be hard to get to the parts store when my rig is disassembled if it's the wrong part

This is what I got from the auto parts store. Does this look like the right part for use in conjunction with the 3/8" saggy butt spacers???

 

http://img607.imageshack.us/img607/7662/ns47.jpg

Ok... Cool.

 

TY

Uuuggghhhh. I am confused on these stupid metric sizes. Help?!?!?!

*M12 x 1.25*

Just called NAPA. First they need to know a year. I just threw out 2000... He said the stud is a T12 - 1.25?? Seems kind thick for that app???

 

Can anyone confirm this?? Provide more accurate specs??

^^^ Are you referring to the stock length, or the longer ones needed with spacers?? I need the longer (than stock) ones...

I am using 3/8" spacers on the rear, and want to know what size bolts I can use from the hardware store. I saw someone mention M8 - 1.25, but unsure of the length. Looks like maybe 25mm or 30mm? Also, can I use 1/4" or 5/16" standard instead of the metric? Stronger and cheaper!!

Awesome. Thanks for thw prompt feedback!!!

 

Will I need any special alignment with the H techs? I believe they only drop <1", so I wouldn't think so. Just a standard alignment, yeah?

 

Now, where can I get some 3/8" spacers for the rear? Probably just cut my own from a HDPE cutting board if I can find one on the cheap

Ha!! Yeah just realized when the Koni is pulled down to the bottom of the OEM assembly, it will still be sticking out the top the same distance no matter what cut is made. Same with the distance from the perch to the top of the strut. Dur

 

It seems like the most important measurement is to make sure the nubs on the Koni insert fit properly and completely inside the OEM assembly to secure to center and create a snug fit between insert and OEM assembly...

 

TY

Just wondering if this process is exactly the same for any springs? I ordered Koni Yellows and Tein H techs for my 08 Legacy 2.5i. Is there different measurements for the cut with different springs, or can I use this DIY safely with my Tein H's??