Drogos

so I have everythign apart ....hub bolts are out but hub won't budge.....PB blasted the shit out of it. Hub bolts are back in and now trying tap it out but little hesitant ....not sure how much beating it can take before I mess up threads on those bolts ...not exactly best access to 2 of them so hitting with equal force is not easy either

my stumble was totally removed with custom tune. 08 top feed on stock fueling

Love grimmspeed products and quality so hate to be a party pooper but why the hell invest all this time, effort and tease us for over a year (?) on development process of a part for a car that is at this point 2 generations behind and will soon be all in hands of 2nd/3rd owners that will buy it for cheap and won't be able to or won't feel like investing in expensive aftermarket parts?

So I've had this Wilwood kit for a couple of year, and it does work great. However, I have a problem and I'm not exactly sure how to solve it. Heat!

 

I've got the Willwood kit up front and Legacy GT brakes in the rear. I drive the car pretty hard at the track. I've been running in the advanced group and the last set of front rotors only lasted 4 days on the track. There is no issue with the rear setup.

 

I just put a new set on and did track sessions and micro cracks were starting to form. I'm running Hawk DTC 60 pads and DBA Rotors. I also have RooDucts cooling ducts (photos of that setup earlier in this thread).

 

I'm looking for what I can change? I almost think it's the reduced contact patch this caliper has on the rotor makes the rotor really heat up super hot and when it cools the cracks start.

 

Do I get a bigger BBK like Stop Tech, or is it just the combination of pads / rotors?

 

I attached a picture of one of my front rotors after 4 track days (approx 7 hours on track)

 

very interesting. My bet was on the quality of rotor itself but since the same issue goes on with DBAs maybe it is in fact inefficient use of rotor space by WWs. Heat plus actual clamping stress only on the upper part of the rotor may in fact produce those cracks.

installed Grimspeed phenolic spacers which made a HUGE difference in mileage

....yeah right

Have you thought about just adding a zip tie or lockwire and just try to stop the leak ? I know its winter time...that may get you through till warmer weather. and you can get the OEM parts.

 

that was my initial thought but it's the oem parts that cause the leak through the band. I used something similar to these:

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/62P-Series-Small-Diameter-Clamps/dp/B0037QFPSG/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1392395321&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=ringworm+ssclamp]62P Series Small Diameter Clamps - 62 p 1"-2" micro-gear ssclamp w/1/4" hex [set of 10] - Amazon.com[/ame]

couldn't find clamp thin enough to fit inside of the groove so it sits on top of it. It fixed one side, the other one still leaks a little. I will be putting new axles anyway so I will just let it sip slowly.

I used this:

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Sheffield-Tools-58780-Hook-Piece/dp/B002KHNCSS/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_4]Sheffield Tools 58780 Hook And Pick Set, 4 Piece - Amazon.com[/ame]

 

on passanger side. No way to get even 1/2 clearance on driver's side

unless there was nothing to clean

Used it on both cars. Not that I had any issues to begin with but it did.....exactly nothing that I could report back

any progress? By the time you guys are ready to release, 30% of folks here will be bedding in new WRX.

You may also want to try a can of Berryman B-12 injector cleaner. See the thread here about fuel additives. I put some in my wagon yesterday, $4.87 with tax, can't hurt.

 

you sure it won't hurt anything? How does it affect octane rating ?

more holding power does not necessarily mean that the included video isn't tight enough to work. I've had zero issues with my SS ties.

 

I agree. that's why I ask

there you go, yeh now I get it. That was my thought exactly but I figured "self-locking" should do its job. No matter what I do though it backs up a little before it locks. Banding back helps sometimes but it stretches the whole locking mechanism. I will try your way. Still have a question though. At the end of the video you are able to lift the tie quite easily with your hands...is that tight enough? I am wondering if simple bolt and nut wouldn't have more holding power (like the original design)

yeh, I tried that video before but it won't play on my PC

I've searched and searched and haven't found an answer so I hope someone can help. I just recently picked up a 2012 legacy 2.5 limited A/T, and I want to do something with the exhaust. Has anyone gone catless into Y piping with single outlets and no mufflers using 3" piping? If so do you have a sound clip or can someone point me in the right direction?

 

what for??? to make it sound like a frickin' fart canned Civic? Power gain minimal to none and with 5th gen headers it will sound like...... any other ricer small displacement 4 banger ???

anyone has any advise on getting ss ties super tight ? I got the tool specified in OP but can't get those frickin SS ties tight enough, not even close. I was actually thinking of reclamping my CV boots and to get some practice I tried to ziptie a similar diameter pipe. No luck, no matter how I attack, zip ties are kind of tight at best. Different application I know but no matter how small the diameter it should clamp it tight right?

shiiiiiiiiit, that looks like it could use some BulletProof-TMIC Mod

Definitely interested if it's out by the time I get tuned.

yeh, that's the thing. A lot of guys are in for stage2/3 upgrades pretty soon and once tuned no one will buy new TMIC just to spend more money on yet another tune. My point is, any kind of delivery estimate, even if it's just a wild guess would be better than nothing. It would be pretty disapointing to tune car on stage 2 setup in my case just to find out 2 weeks later that god of all TMIC is out

sorry don't have time to go through the whole thread. Do we know when to expect these...more less?

tire noise you haven't heard when bearing was bad?

any chance someone could summarize this thread in few sentences. What's currently available from wilwood and what's needed for conversion? We can keep the stock rotors, right? What pads are available both for street and track. There are different part numbers, bore diameters mentioned and I don't think I have the time to go through the whole thread. Much appreciated guys.

So I read most of the thread but can't find definite answer. 08 spec b has regular LGT front axle right? Also the inner boots are leaking but I don't see any cracks in the boot itself so my guess is it's leaking through the clamps. Should I repack with grease and reclamp or just wait until they start clicking and just do whole axle from raxels.com ?

Anyone running CNT catted DP with stock CBE. Wondering if it get's any louder at all?

Thank you. I will take a look at the settings and report back.

where does ECU take it's readings from? From further observation it looks like ecu reading are consistent and vbg1 jumps between spot on with ecu and totally off readings ...anything to do with start up/self calibration procedure maybe?