jkaic

Thanks for the info. Just installed the Pioneer sub and it barely fits into the slot. I cut and used the metal bracket from the OE sub for a direct fitment by keeping with the 3 screws. Though I'm getting some rattling so I'll be adding sound deadening material in the back.

In terms of sound though I would say it's comparable to the stock sub? Doesn't hit as hard as another sub (Pyle 8", standard depth), I might try fitting that in the slot. Can't use the cover though.

Just made this gif. Take a close look at the differences between bumpers. Crazy. And man these headlights .

Nice, color matched too. Are the headlights oem HID? Any pics of the cutoff?

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Nice shine. Is this your version of a winter setup? No steelies?

 

I'm loving the monochrome paint schemes with the satin black running board detail.

 

My car is the two tone brilliant silver with the darker silver on the plastic.

Yeah, it's a love/hate relationship owning dark colored cars. They have this depth of gloss when clean, but gets so dirty so friggin fast.

The two-tone grey/dark grey was a color scheme that I was looking for as well, not sure if that's the one you have.

Oh and this was my winter setup, was on Bilstein BTS and spacers that bigleben took off me. Gonna stay low this year tho

That looks great! Which lip is this?

Thanks! Some no name brand off ebay IIRC. It was on my 05 leggy but i decided to cut it to fit the XT front

Decided to give 'er some TLC. Wash, clay, compound, polish, wax, all with consumer products and a harbor freight DA. Compound took the most time but i'm happy with the results.

Hey All, looks like this thread has been dormant for a WHILE now ... but hopefully a couple of you are still hanging around.

 

Saw that you replaced the bump stops when you did this swap ... Is that absolutely necessary? Cheapest I can find those things is over $40 EACH! If I leave the stock OB bump stops are they going to hit?

MrMaGoo I may be able to source used legacy bump stops for much less than 80 USD. Depending on if there's any in my local junk yard.. PM me!

I just put these on My OBXT with JDM BP5 bilstiens. It made the alignment settings a breeze.

Were you able to get toe in spec with just lateral link toe bolt?

FYI here's a pic of the camber arms.

You can see the bent old arms which got shorter in length compared to the revised version. Structurally the new ones look like they can handle much more.

Still not sure whether to install or sell since I can live with the current camber settings (-1.8 both sides)...

Just received a revised UCA camber kit under warranty. The old version that I had installed started bending after hitting some serious potholes, and this was over an 8 month period. But regardless this should never happen to suspension arms. Anyway Megan Racing sent me a beefier one so this one should hold up.

In terms of camber adjustments, it's great. Easy adjustments. Only thing I suggest is to put anti-seize on all threads because I had to torch mine from the winter salts getting in.

Oh yeah? Even the updated model (MRS-SU-0511, as opposed to 0510)?

Anyway, I bought and installed in the summer, but I never ended up adjusting it because the trailing arm bushings on both sides (the main one) is ripped and I haven't fixed it yet. Because of that my toe is still slightly off.. but no uneven camber wear and I'm still at around -2 both sides.

In terms of installation, it was pretty streaghtforward though. Had to sawzall the inner UCA bolt for both. Ill post a pic in a few.

I'm dropped on bilstein legacy shocks with some unknown aftermarket brand springs in the front and sedan stock springs in the rears.. had it originally on my legacy wagon with an even 1" drop all around. Aside from swapping out bumpstops for legacy ones that's all I did to the outback.

-2 camber is quite aggressive I've been told. Both rears are out of spec for toe and naturally both bolts are seized up so I couldn't get anything done in the rears when I went for an alignment.

I'll be replacing that control arm bushing and bolt so I figure before going back to get another alignment might as well do something about the camber.

But with the Megan adjustable UCA, is that sufficient to put camber back to spec? Would I need the other adjustable links that are listed in the Whiteline KTA124 kit?

If anyone can chime in on this kit I'm interested to find out as well. Recently lowered my Outback and I've got -2.2 camber on both rears.

Edit: Looks like they updated the part number: MRS-SU-0511

https://www.amazon.com/Megan-Racing-MRS-SU-05117880-Subaru-Outback/dp/B01BUEHJ0I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492801051&sr=8-1&keywords=MRS-SU-0511

Eesh, looks like misfires are more common than I expected. Anyways I've got random misfires on my 97 leg gt wagon since I've owned the car a few months back. Here are the deets:

 

-At first it was always all 4 misfires and a fuel trim P0170 but mechanic told me once all 4 misfires twice the P0170 code comes on. Perhaps the reason why it blinks now and then. Now it's random order but i'm clearing the codes once it comes on.

 

-Always comes on at cruising highway speeds. This is the latest freeze-frame- Calc load 26.2%, eng coolant 190F, STFT Bank1 0.7%, LIFT Bank1 15.6%, Intake Mani press 18.0 in.hg, eng RPM 2850, Speed 64MPH

 

-Smells of sulfur, i'm pretty sure the cat's being burned up, light smoke after prolonged driving. Replaced primary cat but smell has come back.

 

-Just recently bogs/shakes a bit on first gear from stop like as if I didn't know how to drive standard, but only sometimes. But that might be an unrelated problem.

 

-So far we've changed spark plugs, front and rear O2 sensor, coil pack, wires were changed from the previous owner, fuel filter, ran TKO for fuel injectors. Nothing shown with leakdown test. Patched up all exhaust leaks. Still need to go through sensors and compression test.

 

Wondering if any of you guys have a clue. I just don't know why it's only happening at highway speeds under no acceleration. Thanks in advance.

Just in case anybody had the same symptoms, here's an update. I did the DIY grounding mod since I noticed headlights dimmed and figured why not.. and it fixed it! Used to get mf's after about 30 kms/1 day, and now it's been a week with no CEL. Car runs wayy smoother too, 1st gear hesitation doesn't happen and headlights/dash lights don't dim anymore. I'm thinking bad grounding was playing around with sensors, or the coil pack wasn't getting the right amount of power.. anyways who knew this would fix it... I'm a happy camper.

Eesh, looks like misfires are more common than I expected. Anyways I've got random misfires on my 97 leg gt wagon since I've owned the car a few months back. Here are the deets:

-At first it was always all 4 misfires and a fuel trim P0170 but mechanic told me once all 4 misfires twice the P0170 code comes on. Perhaps the reason why it blinks now and then. Now it's random order but i'm clearing the codes once it comes on.

-Always comes on at cruising highway speeds. This is the latest freeze-frame- Calc load 26.2%, eng coolant 190F, STFT Bank1 0.7%, LIFT Bank1 15.6%, Intake Mani press 18.0 in.hg, eng RPM 2850, Speed 64MPH

-Smells of sulfur, i'm pretty sure the cat's being burned up, light smoke after prolonged driving. Replaced primary cat but smell has come back.

-Just recently bogs/shakes a bit on first gear from stop like as if I didn't know how to drive standard, but only sometimes. But that might be an unrelated problem.

-So far we've changed spark plugs, front and rear O2 sensor, coil pack, wires were changed from the previous owner, fuel filter, ran TKO for fuel injectors. Nothing shown with leakdown test. Patched up all exhaust leaks. Still need to go through sensors and compression test.

Wondering if any of you guys have a clue. I just don't know why it's only happening at highway speeds under no acceleration. Thanks in advance.