kroonod

Completely agree. The more i touched those lines, the more they disintegrated.

I ended up adding 2 unions under the back seat, deleting the crossover and running new hardlines to the first set of rubber lines.

Yeah, my rear brake connector and surrounding lines blew yesterday.

I'd say you get 7% braking after it goes, seems like only enough brakes to hold you still without much grade. My pedal basically hit the floor and was only actuating in the last few degrees of travel.

Time to go get some nicopp tubing and make a weekend out of it! woo!

So you replaced your wheel bearing with which brand? Duralast or Timken?

Running a timken bearing that had the magnet literature with it.

I've cleared the code via pulling the positive battery lead a few times and driven it 150 or so miles with no change.

Have you googled that question ? you may find the answer there.

Thanks for your wisdom max capacity.

Yeah, i went ahead and replaced the sensor. I found it interesting that the sensor was Bosch in a Duralast box.

Dash still lit up with following:

c0071, c0024, c0029 (The 29 came on after sensor swap, used to be c0047)

I guess i'll be taking it in to someone.

Alright my turn. Replaced my front left axle and wheel bearing (timken) with seemingly recommended parts.

I'm pretty sure i removed the speed sensor early enough for it to avoid any damage from fire and hammer sliding. Although i did snap off the speed sensor bolt and drilled and tapped the spindle.

Either way, get it all back together and the car is clearly not registering the sensor anymore. (ABS light, cruise light)

Pull the sensor out and remove any schmoo. looks good. Same lights on.

What's the move, find another one? Will duralast work in this situation? new from dealer? Also, how the hell do you get to the speed sensor wire connector? it's on the frame rail and i can't reach from bay side or below.