KoukiS14

That would be nice, but there's no suction on the return line. All of the fluid is being pushed, rather than sucked.

Damn, that doesn't sound good. Have you bothered to try disconnecting the battery for a while? It can't hurt. I wonder if FreeSSM is specifically compatible with your 2010's TCU and the TCU clear operation. Possibly a visit to a dealer could clear the code, or they could reflash the TCU.

I'll add that the proper way to monitor the ATF temp on a 5EAT is via the internal trans temp sensors using the OBD port. That gives accurate, in-situ ATF fluid temps from the bowels of the beast. An external gauge will only be relative to the real deal in the trans, showing you that your ATF is being nicely cooled, or not, by whatever cooling setup you have. But once that fluid is back in the pan, it's coming up to cooking temps nice and quick. Sous vide, anyone? If you want an external gauge, then it should be plumbed in before the cooler, as close to the transmission as possible to more accurately monitor the actual ATF temps within the trans.

 

What's important in a cooler is that it cool an adequate amount when necessary. What's an adequate amount? As David illustrated, it depends on the car, the driver, and the conditions. I've got lots of lady friends with OBXTs that will never need more than stock cooling. Preventing long term fluid overheating is what's paramount. It really doesn't take too many incidents of overheating even quality ATF to severely degrade it. Any stock 5EAT with decent power in front of it is capable of toasting its fluid, even with as much cooling as you can throw at it. Looking at scorched blue transmission steels and clutch packs reveals that's the most dangerous heat source from the ATF's perspective: extreme pressure, sheering, and heat generating friction, with the fluid laid out nice and thin and at its most vulnerable. Built 5EATs and those with VB mods will generate less heat internally than a stock 5EAT. In fact, a VB upgrade is probably the best "cooling" solution for a 5EAT, but I don't think you can put too big a cooler in place, especially if you use a thermostat with it. My testing shows that even with a large Hayden 678 as the only cooler, temps can still linger over 200* for a prolonged period of time in summer heat after having beat on the car.

5 eat is 3.27 for 05 -07 lgt 3.54 for 05-07 outback xt

5 eat 08+ is 3.08 lgt and 3.27 for 08+ outback xt

5 mt is 4.11 for lgt and 4.44 for outback xt

 

for the 3.27 3.54 and 3.08 diff they are va2 type and as far as i can tell completely different from the mt.

 

Thanks, Frank. Didn't have time to look that up. Eagerly awaiting a hitch for my wagon

 

BTW, I shattered my center diff gears boost launching with 700 lbs. of carpet in the back the other morning. Swapped it with spares that day. Bushings seemed fine, but I haven't pressed them out yet. Running a stock setup for the moment

 

Oh, and the center diff clutches were BURNT!!! All four black, with moderate cracking on the paper friction surfaces. I was really surprised to see that with only 15,000 miles on them.The damn frictions in the diff are the tiniest things from the old 4EAT. Of course, that's daily multiple low boost launches to scoot ahead of traffic, cornering under power as well as braking. I'm hard on my cars. ;-) If they last at all they're worthy. The 5EAT is fairly worthy. Cryo and a surface treatment on the next set of sun/planetaries going into mine.

 

3.08....highway gears me likey

 

Agreed. Me too. Although it drops it only about 6%, or 200 RPM at 75, but that's not bad. I've briefly started looking at alternate 1-5 gear ratios for the 5EAT by swapping in internals from other Jatco based transmissions. A super tall 5th would be nice, with low and tight 1-3. Fast off the line, GTR style, with stretched out taller gears for better freeway mileage and/or higher top speed.

does the 5MT rear diff mate up to the 5EAT configuration?

 

The R&P are different ratios between the manuals and the automatics.

Sorry to revive this deadthread, but I haz a question!

 

When I'm driving along at about 35-40mph, I hear an intermittent, but steady rhythm'd vibration/low noise, similar to the sound a tire would make at such speed when making slight contact with a fenderliner or some such soft/flexible material. It may or may not be a groan/growl, though it could be, since we all tend to describe our onomatopoeias differently.

 

I'm concerned that it's my center diff, though I have not ruled out wheel bearings, etc. It's not speed-sensitive, other than about 30-50mph on smooth, particularly blacktop roads. Heck, it could even be my tires, I can't say for sure. It doesn't seem to be noticeable on uneven or composite roads.

 

I've heard that they make noise when they're on their way out, but, is there any other definitive way to confirm that I have a center diff problem?

 

Definitely not your center diff, which is only in use when turning. I'd vote for wheel bearing. I don't think I've heard of the diff gears making noise before failure. Only after. Then it's a noise that indicates that something's obviously wrong.

 

I have developed a worsening problem (only while in manual mode) of the 5 EAT randomly not upshifting. Sometimes it takes 3-4 pulls on the paddle to finally get the tranny to upshift.

 

~Worse while car warming up but continues less frequently when car warmed.

~Does NOT occur when using the shifter handle to upshift.

~No issue with downshifts from either position.

~Randomly, after slow drive in second gear (like in a parking lot pulling up to a stop sign), after stopping to pull out onto street the tranny does not automatically downshift to first requiring me to pull downshift paddle.

~Have had the tranny reprogramed at dealership twice without fix.

~No codes being thrown.

~I have the smallest LongCool tranny cooler on but it is blocked off until I recover from back surgery enough to install the bypass thermostat.

 

Is this a malfunction of the upshift paddle switch (like dirty contacts), TCU or a VB problem? Or ????

I could not find anyone else with this problem after a search. Any ideas on what could be the problem?

 

Thanks

 

Only doesn't upshift manually properly from the wheel paddles, or doesn't upshift properly in normal drive or sport mode as well? If it's just manually from the paddles, that does sound like faulty electrics there.

 

The lack of downshift to second is manual or auto mode? What on earth do you mean by the cooler being blocked off? Removed from the cooling loop? If you block that loop, that's not a good thing.

 

Not throwing a code is good. Seems like the TCU keeps pretty good tabs on the trans, so if it was a VB issue or the actual vs. selected gear was different, it would let you know.

Thx. We need advice, right now we haven't any opportunity to modify our valve body (2008+). But we also want to improve our tranny safety. My car and car of my friend run just 45.000km that is nearly ~30.000 miles. As I understand, it is low milege, right? So we need just clutch kit, yes? Right now my car starts to over 300whp and I really interested in my transmission health.

 

Second part, what is this core? What is that, were it is located? And, are you shure that our "core" the same to legacy core?

 

Thx a lot for a help.

 

Yeah, 30,000 miles is low mileage. I've reconsidered selling just the clutch packs though and I'm only going to be offering the full kits. It adds a little to the overall price, but I think if you've got the trans out, you might as well do the full rebuild.

 

The "core" is the three clutch packs that require machining to be refit with extra high capacity clutch pairs. Those would be the input, direct and hi/lo/reverse clutch packs. Those are done on an exchange basis as part of the kit, and the $900 covers the cost of those in case they aren't returned.

Yeah, the internals are mostly interchangeable amongst the years, so the build kit will work for 2008+ 5EATs.

I've gotten used to the sound of Wilwoods. To me they sound like brakes that work. If someone hears them and throws a glance in traffic, they can't help but take a deeper look and realize the same thing.

 

Also, the aluminum bracket extenders definitely contribute to the whole thing ringing and squealing. Mostly it's all of the square edges in the pads and calipers.

I've pretty well convinced myself that I'm taking the clutch pack kit out of the equation and offering just the full rebuild kits. There hasn't been much demand, so it's build to order at the moment. Two weeks lead time is probably realistic at the moment. I just moved and I'm settling into new shop space. Once settled in, I hope to keep one or two kits stocked for quick shipment.

Considering that the trans pump is capable of generating several hundred psi, I'm sure any restrictions in the cooling loop are inconsequential. I seem to remember reading that typical cooling loop pressures are around 20 psi, give or take 10 psi, depending on the vehicle.

Reserved 3

Reserved 2

Reserved 1

The ACME Transmissions Subaru 5EAT Clutch Pack Kits and Rebuild Kits are built with the best components available for the 5EAT transmission. Premium frictions and steels are used throughout, with additional clutches added to the major clutch packs responsible for transferring power under high loads in forward gears. This results in additional torque capacity and longevity to solve the problems associated with increased power output from modified engines.

 

 

Some quick specs:

 

33% more surface area on input clutch (4th & 5th gears)

60% more surface area on direct clutch (2nd, 3rd, & 4th gears)

25% more surface area on hi/lo/rev with Penultimate (3rd, 4th and 5th gears)

50% more surface area on hi/lo/rev with Pinnacle (3rd, 4th and 5th gears)

50% more surface area on front brake with Pinnacle (3rd and 5th gears)

 

Alto Red Eagle frictions

Input

Direct

Hi/Lo/Rev

Forward

Low coast

 

Alto high energy graphite clutches

Reverse

Front brake

 

Alto Kolene treated steels

Input

Direct

Transfer

 

WPC treated steels

Pinnacle Hi/Lo/Rev

Pinnacle front brake

 

Premium Alto or Raybestos steels are used throughout in the remaining clutch packs, and Alto high energy graphite clutches are used in the front brake and reverse clutches, where Alto Red Eagles are not available.

 

ACME Transmissions Subaru 5EAT Clutch Pack Kits

ACME Transmissions Subaru 5EAT Pinnacle Clutch Pack Kit - $1,900

ACME Transmissions Subaru 5EAT Penultimate Clutch Pack Kit - $1,500

 

ACME Transmissions Subaru 5EAT Rebuild Kits

ACME Transmissions Subaru 5EAT Pinnacle Rebuild Kit - $2,150

ACME Transmissions Subaru 5EAT Penultimate Rebuild Kit - $1,750

 

Core costs - $900

Any kit incurs a $900 core cost. The core cost is a depreciating refund deposit to cover the clutch pack cores that will ship to you. Ship your useable condition cores back in 1-30 days, and you get the full $900 back. 31-60 days, and you get $600 back. 61+ days, and you get $300 back.

 

What’s the difference between the Clutch Pack Kit and the Rebuild Kit?

 

The key difference is that the Rebuild Kit contains the frictions and steels for the reverse, forward, low coast and transfer case clutch packs in addition to the parts contained in the Clutch Pack Kit. Either kit contains a full transmission overhaul kit. An overhaul kit is transmission industry lingo for the soft parts of a trans rebuild kit. The seals, sealing rings, gaskets, o-rings, etc.

 

The Clutch Pack Kit is intended for a healthy, low mileage transmission, specifically where a user might intend to do the install themselves and doesn't have the specialized tools for a full transmission rebuild. The Clutch Pack Kit contains all the parts to freshen up the clutch packs in the front of the transmission, and "overhaul" the remainder of the transmission. The clutch pack kits include a full overhaul kit for the 5EAT. That means all seals, sealing rings, gaskets, etc. that are needed to freshen up the trans. Essentially all soft parts, plus rebuild parts for the front brake and fully assembled input, direct and hi/lo/rev clutch packs. It does not include frictions or steels for any of the other clutch pack sets besides the front brake, input, direct, and hi/lo/rev.

 

The Rebuild Kit is intended for a local shop to fully rebuild the transmission, not just the "front half" which is essentially what the Clutch Pack Kit does. Of course, if an end user is capable and has the correct tools, there's nothing to prevent them from rebuilding their own transmission. I would recommend the Rebuild Kit option if you're capable of doing a full trans rebuild, if a shop is doing the build for you, if the trans isn't currently perfectly healthy, or is over 100,000 miles. The Rebuild Kit contains all the parts to rebuild the transmission. Exceptions would be low wear parts that are typically only replaced as necessary, including bushings, bearings and pump gears. Those parts are available and stocked by ACME Transmission, and can be shipped via expedited means if the parts are found to be necessary. Please contact me for details.

 

What’s the difference between the Pinnacle kit and the Penultimate kit?

 

The Pinnacle Clutch Pack kit is ACME Transmission’s top of the line offering, while the Penultimate kit is just a notch below it. The Pinnacle kit has a 6 pair hi/lo/rev clutch pack with custom thickness, WPC treated steels, whereas the Penultimate kit has a 5 pair hi/lo/rev clutch pack with premium Raybestos steels. The other difference is in the front brake, where the Pinnacle kit has 3 pairs with custom thickness, WPC treated steels, versus the stock 2 pair setup using premium Raybestos steels in the Penultimate. The extra clutch pairs and WPC treated steels in the front brake and hi/lo/rev clutches of the Pinnacle kit provide greater torque capacity and longevity in gears 3 through 5. Since those gears are the most heavily loaded, the Pinnacle kit is the choice for big power cars intending to run at high speeds.

 

With all of that said, a VB upgrade and bronze diff bushings are highly recommended if you don't already have those items. They'll contributed significantly to the longevity and enjoyment of the transmission, and are "since you're there" type items.

 

Note that pricing does not include shipping. Availability is limited at the moment. I'll have a Pinnacle kit available the week of 7/8/13, then I'll be waiting on clutch pack cores as well as a large batch of custom steels before the next kits are ready to go. ETA is roughly before the end of the month.

 

Just so you all know, this is my pet project and side gig. I'm a full time IT consultant by day. I'll do my best to keep the supply of these catching up with demand. Funding is the major issue at the moment, but initial monies are all rolling back into the project for the sake of expansion, so hopefully availability will improve as time goes on.

Yeah, the piston travel (10mm) versus the transfer clutch pack gap (<2mm) is a huge difference. It's definitely fully activating. You might consider pulling out the thicker steels and adding some frictions and the thin steels to transfer more torque. I haven't played with the numbers there yet, but it's definitely possible. You can probably add two frictions and steels for about a 50% upgrade.

Went out and did some trans temp logging on a 100* day today. Started out with some driving, then 10 minutes of idling to cool down to a base temperature of 176/176. Several hard pulls later peaked out the system at 203/221. Temps remained 203/212 for 20 minutes of freeway cruising, creeping up to 203/216 with some accel at freeway speeds as well as on surface roads. Three minutes of idling and the temps came to 199/203 and dropping.

 

So the Hayden 678 works well enough to be used as the only ATF cooler. With those temps, it seems a good change interval would be about 30,000 miles.

How does this respond to downshifts? Right now I have a G35s, which is the best auto I have driven. Crisp, rev-matched downshifts and equally smooth upshifts. Downshifts are great on exit ramps, so much fun. A video would be spectacular. Great engineering work in this thread.

 

If it's a 2008 or earlier G35, it can be made better with a VB upgrade, and I'll have rebuild kits available for it down the road as well.

It depends on what you're buying. I'll be selling the clutch pack kits and rebuild kits. ClimberD will be focusing on valve bodies, center diff bushings, as well as full transmission rebuilds using my rebuild kits, his VB mods and diff bushings.

 

The kits are nearing readiness for shipping. Some will ship in June, but I won't be taking orders until they're ready for packaging. Even then, ClimberD and dr20t have dibs on the first kits. I've been waiting to receive the final custom steels for the full bore stage 3 5EAT kit, which is what's holding things up. Those will be the first to ship and will eat up the two core sets I've got to work with. I'll order additional 5EATs for cores once things get under way. I don't suspect there will we more than 3 or 4 available at any given time though.

 

But yes, they're real. There will be limited availability initially, with production spinning up to slightly higher numbers by July or August. As far as testing, I've only got one car to test with and am not fond of swapping transmissions regularly. In the end, the community will be the testers. That's just the way it's going to have to be. I'm confident of the product though, and think everyone will be quite pleased with it.

 

In the end, I think it will be the best option for a lot of folks. It will be cheaper than the IPT rebuild service, with equal or better parts than they offer in their kits. There will be lower turnaround time, with the ability to do a rebuild locally rather than shipping your transmission out and having the car down during the process.

 

ClimberD and I are collaborating on a posting introducing the product line. Expect to read more about it in the next couple of weeks, possibly sooner.

I really want to know what R&D have been done on your over-haul options. What power levels have been tested?

 

Inquiring minds want to know.

 

R&D? Hundreds of hours of OCD research, dozens of hours of build time, hundreds of hours of drive time on a well beaten 321 whp car.

The increased fluid volume is negligible in relation to the overall fluid volume, and the fluid is indeed incompressible, so that's all a non-issue. Temps do seem to have been a concern, but the 190* spikes you're observing now keep things within tolerable limits. Keep calm and party on.

That's bizarre. Were you in the car when it happened? If not, I wouldn't go back to that shop. Sounds like a sure case of abuse. There are four planetaries on the sun gear, so there's tons of surface area for the teeth faces. It should be hella strong. Anybody else ever strip the center diff planet?

How did you manage to do that?

I will definitely buy this when it's ready. I'll even take a week off work so I don't have to wait for the core exchange.

 

What am I missing about your comment? How does a week off of work relate to not having to wait for the core exchange?

Are you guys talking about turning engine pistons?

 

Nope, 5EAT clutch pack apply pistons, like these:

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=140202&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1359323233