Riptide

Thanks, I appreciate that. Found the torque specs too, 59 ft lbs. for the bracket bolts though if I can't get my 3/8 torque wrench in there I'll just get it snugged down best effort. 19 ft lbs. on the caliper bolts.

When I removed the pins from the caliper bracket I noticed that one of them seemed to have some type of rubber sleeve on it and the other did not. I've got the two mixed up now, and I'm not sure which caliper pin hole took the one that has the sleeve. Does it matter?

Set of stock pads and hardware getting here tomorrow, p/n 26296AG051. If I can't make this work now, then the only one to blame is you know who.

 

 

How important is torquing the hardware back to spec? Not sure what they are. On the youtube videos, hardly anyone seems to do it they just snug it down and that's it.

Thanks. Seems a little counter intuitive to only have that spring on one end of the pad. In theory seems like you'd want one at both ends for even pulling force.

Thanks. It's confusing because on youtube I've seen people do it without pinching those in underneath and instead they have it stuck outside against the bracket. This is how the video you posted shows it. However the existing install has that tab riding underneath the pad and in the groove, not bent back and pushing up against the outside of the bracket like in the video. One of those broke off trying to get the pad in again so I lost my temper and threw them into the garbage. I'm ordering subaru geniune pads now. Better luck next time I guess.

 

 

Question is, which of these kits is the right one? When I search for front brake pad set for this car (2005 LGT LTD Sedan) I get multiple part numbers for different front brake kits:

https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_20...6296AG051.html

https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_20...6296FG010.html

 

 

I may have to call the dealer and get that figured out, need a set of pads here by next weekend.

I cleaned the inside of the bracket now and we have bare metal showing. It seems to have helped a little bit, but they still do not slide right in.

 

 

I feel like I don't know what I'm doing here and am evidently clueless. For one thing, there are metal parts sticking out on the brake pad and I don't understand how they are supposed to fit.

 

Attaching a photo here. The two parts in red circled. One of these (the flat piece I think) is the wear indicator. I'm not sure how it fits, does it ride behind the metal wing on the hardware or in front of it.

 

 

I'm also not sure about the pointed metal piece here with the hook on the end. Does it ride in the groove or is it supposed to be pushing up against the bracket from behind the pad?

The kit is the correct centric part number for the car, and eyeballing the pads they look correct. The old pads came out without too much trouble, much easier than these new ones are going on.

It's interesting to me, how old brake pads and hardware will somehow 'deform' over time to fit caked on dust and/or rust. Put new hardware and pads on, and even if to tolerance there can somehow be a problem.

 

 

Regardless, I'm going to try and get down to metal on the carrier bracket today and eliminate that as a potential source of the issue. If I still have problems, I'll try the old brake hardware. Beyond that point, I'll get a set of OEM pads on the way asap.

 

 

Does anyone know what the issue is here? When I search for front brake pad set for this car (2005 LGT LTD Sedan) I get multiple part numbers for different front brake kits. For example:

https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2005_Legacy/Disc-Brake-Pad-Set-Front/60015053/26296AG051.html

https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2005_Legacy/Disc-Brake-Pad-Set-Front/49235215/26296FG010.html

I am working on replacing rotors and pads on my 2005 LGT. I bought centric stuff. The rotors seem fine, they fit right in place no problem. The pads are a different story.

 

 

Getting both tongues to pop into the groove is very difficult. I've only been able to do it with the bracket off the car at this point. Is this supposed to take this much effort? I am using the hardware they came with.

 

 

 

This is the first brake job I've done. Starting to wonder if I should return these and just get OEM pads instead.

 

 

 

Part # 105.10780

https://www.apcautotech.com/part-detail/10510780?year=2005&make=subaru&model=legacy

Having done this over the weekend. I did the driver side in about 1/4 the time it took me on the passenger side. Spent a lot of time on the passenger side goofing around trying to get the axle out of the hub. My car has 94K on it and is a 2005. C-clip axles no retainer pin.

 

Things that help:

Air tools

3 jaw puller

Someone to step on the brakes

Disconnecting the brake line brackets

 

A lift would help too but is obviously not critical. I also did not have to completely disconnect the sway bar endlink like the OP did. I backed it off to give it a little slop is all. Everything was able to move around OK with just the ball joint out of the socket.

 

Having done this twice now I would go straight to the 3 jaw puller. If in a bit of a hurry could probably finish the job on one side in 30-45 minutes.

EDIT:

 

Rented a 3 jaw 7 ton puller. It took that to get the axle pushed through the hub. PITA. On the other side I'm going straight to the puller not going to even mess around with trying to smack it through there.

Good to hear it is just a c clip most likely. I intend to follow the OP's procedure. With luck it should all come apart and go back together without too much struggle.

 

Seen the job done on a 90 Civic. Never done this myself. I do have a good IR air wrench. Should help.

I am about to install two axles driver and passenger side on a 2005 GT LTD car. Is there an easy way to check ahead if the car has a retaining pin I'm going to have to deal with?

 

Got axles from raxles.com. Probably spent more than I needed to hope they are good quality.