luchadorjose

I dunno. Looks like a pretty mundane car

With proper toe and caster, the wheel should center. He's probably got zero toe or even slightly toed out, with an old school alignment. I wouldn't worry about the wheel not returning to center

I want those spats

I'm talking OEM options, not like a quaife or cusco. Then you're 1100+. OEM 5mt FLSD optinos are so limited and rare, i'm not surprised you get sodomized on price

Don't let your dreams be dreams!

 

Unless you know someone upgrading their STI (rare), they're impossible to find under $600, and that's just silly. The guys I know who found STI owners paid 200-300. And I've been poor since I bought a house anyway, so all I have are dreams

I want a front LSD from an STI so badly. I can even live without DCCD for that. I already have the R180, just need the front helical... *sob*

Yes, clearly not the rack for the person who knows what they want, but not why or how to get there.

 

I dislike VDC because I find it far more predictable, stable, and fun, to control the car by steady application of throttle and steering inputs, allowing the differentials to work as intended, rather than relying on the algorithm selectively braking the slipping wheels. Then again I am always driving seasonally appropriate tires, so for those who are riding on less-than-ideal tires and don't want to pay attention to driving in general, or specifically for the conditions, VDC may be the better option.

 

I wish that the system handled traction and stability control separately. It would be nice to say "hey, I don't mind spinning tires, just not spinning the car" versus "hey, i don't mind rotating the car, just don't smoke individual tires" and finally "shut up, I GOT THIS"

Little Italy... is that anywhere near the North End?

 

Yes, there's no little italy in Boston That's the italian section in the North End, nowhere near Back Bay

 

But you knew that

It looks like there are several people who've gone through some pretty extensive (expensive) trial-and-error stuff trying to banish the stumble, and from what I've read on here and on NASIOC it seems like replacing the OEM fuel pressure regulator from an '07 or older STI fixes the stumble.

Here's one of the easy-to-read threads.

 

Adding an inline filter or extending the lines sounds like it would be a cheaper solution to accomplish the same thing, it's just not as "correct" as replacing the FPR because it doesn't address the root cause of the stumble. I'm not correcting what you said, I'm just mentioning it for the good of the generic internet population. The stumble isn't doing any damage to the motor, so it really just comes down to how much #BecauseRacecar dedication you have... and how much extra cash you have to spend on replacing something that isn't actually broken.

 

What i read is that our FPR pulls a vacuum reference from the cyl4 runner, which fluctuates in pressure like crazy since it's so close to the valves. If you relocate the vaccuum reference to somewhere central to the plenum, it makes it go away

Sell it and get a Prius

That looks awesome! It's funny, that grill almost looks like a late model altima, with how it's kind shield shaped

 

Way more aggressive now, too bad she won't be coming out for WBM!

Who's going to the brentuning dyno day?

I want to say rallysportdirect. I'm not positive.

 

Sean - the floaty steering around a cloverleaf is probably due to the fact the the car has taken a set to the outside and then squats during acceleration. THe front inside tire is unweighted from the lateral force, and then the front starts to lift from acceleration. To combat that, you could add an anti-lift kit, stiffer spring/shocks or coils, but I'm not sure steering mods would really attack the root cause

I think my whiteline bushings were 60$ and my cusco brace was 70$, and those are tried/tested to fit so maybe start there. Those two things help out the same way this would. It's all about eliminating things that flex/deflect when forces are applied

It will work. It will be a pain to install. When I had my motor out, I swapped my steering linkage with damper out for a GR STI linkage, which acoomplishes the same thing (STI is solid). You get a better on center steering feel, more communication mid turn, and better feel during fast transitions. Is it a huge improvement? No. I might have even only noticed it because I also happen to have the whiteline steering rack bushings and cusco steering rack brace. What MC said, if you have the money, do it and it's worth it. If you don't have the money, don't do it and you're not really missing out.

http://i991.photobucket.com/albums/af38/stu-nami/s2baru/image1%20-%20copy_zpsdaahmve6.jpg

it's going down gents should be completed by next wednesday.

Edit* guess i should say what's actually changing. Went with the reva-c bumper and hood is na since i'm going fmic to be custom fabbed.

Requirements thus far, headlight brackets, possible change of hood latch. Otherwise looking like swap in and off. No issues with fenders that we can tell with the help of hangar with suggestions

 

wut. Y u no tell me dis

Seeing that pod and how well it's done makes me want to prioritize the additional gauges I want. They got back burnered because I couldn't find a suitable mounting solution

I'm 18K into my specB purchase price, and 14K in mods, not including maintence.

That's what I'm thinking too. The trick is finding those long ass bolts. I should do the math of welding it myself (especially since I only have trimix $$$ gas).

 

The bolt length isn't the only issue. Moore gives you a higher grade bolt, which is why they increase the torque spec on tightening them so much over OEM. That tighter torque is a huge part of why they offer so much improvement. They have a lot of R&D into that product

PB blast the **** out of them, tap them a million times with a hammer at different angles, PB blast them some more. Do this a couple times over a day or two. When you're trying to undo them, try tightening them first. Don't even need to make them turn, just give it pressure in that direction. PB blast them again, hit it with a hammer again. Then try loosening them. I've gotten both of my knuckle bolts out, knock on wood.

My tuner said that he commonly sees AP's flicker/reset when hitting boost, on the dyno or on the street. My personal opinion is that the OBD2 ports are not designed to hold onto the plugs very firmly, I know mine wiggled around even when the AP cord plug was new

Posted up a meet! Plenty of notice for you guys

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fall-meet-2015-october-3rd-sturbridge-ma-244802.html?p=5223709#post5223709

Looking good

I'll go out there eventually

Don't put words in my mouth! There are better things