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Dade

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Posts posted by Dade

  1. Did Zack just drill-out the case and install the wiring and grommet to enable full DCCD connectivity at that spot?

     

    Would be interested to know what that priced-out for everything?

     

    I think he just swapped that case section out for the STI one, though I'm not 100% positive on that. Any time you open up one of these, it costs some coin. Zach's pricing is very fair, considering the level of effort and the sourcing of parts. He stocks literally everything anyone would need on a custom 6MT or any Subaru transmission, with maybe the exception of some custom gear sets. A used STI 6MT transmission might have been cheaper, but who knows what condition it's in internally and I'd have a shorter 6th gear. I'll let the vendors quote their own prices, but I'm very happy with the result.

  2. You put a DCCD in a Spec B trans? First I've heard of it. Who did the conversion for you?

     

     

     

    Hope someone will chime in on the WH as I'm interested but only have an 08 Spec B trans at this point.

     

    Zach at ZF Design here in Colorado. He builds all the Subaru rally car transmissions. Yes, this is still my spec B trans, with an STI torsen front diff and a DCCD center diff installed. I wanted to keep my 6th gear ratio for top speed. I was getting a grind on down shifting to 4th. I ended up replacing all the synchros (carbon ones for 1-4), second gear, a shift fork, and a couple other things. I don't want to have to ever do this again. :lol:

     

    I spoke to iWire yesterday and got some help on the DCCD wiring to get the two wires into the cabin. It will look a lot more professional than what I had envisioned. I am pretty confident now on the pin outs for the ECU. I'll report back once I have it actually tested.

  3. I have an 08 spec.B. I had a DCCD center diff added along with an STI front diff. I'm installing a MapDCCD controller. Anyone want to review my wiring notes before I go messing with my harness? I'd like like someone else to look at it. Thanks.

     

    B36 pin 15 (Green/Yellow): Handbrake

    B38 pin 9 (LtGreen/Black): ABS/VDC

    B38 pin 18 (Green/Black): VSS

    B38 pin 19 (Pink): RPM/Tach

    B134 pin 5 (Black/Blue): Ground

    B134 pin 18 (Yellow/Red): TPS

    B135 pin 19 (Green/Red): Ignition

    B135 pin 28 (Brown): Brake light

  4. Thank you for this, and well spotted.

    Everything works perfectly on the driver's side, and if the problem were in this splice, I'd expect the driver's side mirror to have reversed up/down functions too.

     

    With any DC motor, it runs one direction with current flowing through the coil, and the opposite direction when the polarity is reversed.

     

    Take a close look at both of the PDF's, one for 2005 and the other 2008. The Remote Control Mirror Switch matrix is completely different. Yes, you have to connect power to both the Blue and Red wires. The 2005 wiring diagram shows them connected anyway. The way the power flows through the 2008 switch however, is not the same.

     

    An idea I would try would be to get yourself a 2005/2006 mirror adjustment switch. The pinout is the same, wires are already correct, but the switch is different. Did your JDM mirrors come with a switch? I'd be interested in knowing if anyone else is having this issue. I think you just need an A-C switch to match your A-C motors. Just the adjustment switch, not the folding or traction control or mirror heaters.

     

    I'm also considering taking the D-F adjustment switch out to my A-C Legacy to prove this theory.

  5. To be thorough, I looked over the 2005 wiring diagram for A-C lights. See attached. There are 8 pins, two for power adjustment.

     

    [b][u]Connector	Pin #	Mirror Color	Harness Color	Function[/u][/b]
    Driver (D5)	1	Green		Red/Black	Turn Signal +
    Driver (D5)	2	Black		Yellow		Heater +
    Driver (D5)	3	Blue		Red/Blue	Adjustment +
    Driver (D5)	4	White		Black		Turn Signal -
    Driver (D5)	5	Black		Black		Heater -
    Driver (D5)	6	Pink		Red/Yellow	Adj Up/Down
    Driver (D5)	7	Purple		Red/White	Adj Left/Right
    Driver (D5)	8	Red		Red/Blue	Adjustment +
    Driver (D5)	N/A	Brown		N/A		Fold
    Driver (D5)	N/A	Grey		N/A		Unfold
    Passenger (D15)	1	White		Blue/Yellow	Turn Signal +
    Passenger (D15)	2	Black		Yellow		Heater +
    Passenger (D15)	3	Blue		Red/Blue	Adjustment +
    Passenger (D15)	4	Green		Black		Turn Signal -
    Passenger (D15)	5	Black		Black		Heater -
    Passenger (D15)	6	Pink		Blue/Green	Adj Up/Down
    Passenger (D15)	7	Purple		Blue/White	Adj Left/Right
    Passenger (D15)	8	Red		Red/Blue	Adjustment +
    Passenger (D15)	N/A	Brown		N/A		Fold
    Passenger (D15)	N/A	Grey		N/A		Unfold
    

    USDM 2005 Mirror Wiring.pdf

  6. If you are going to pull your door cards and re-pin again anyway, could you please take note of the correct color combinations for the passenger-side adjustment motor. Dade was going to do so earlier in the thread, but never did.

     

    I have my passenger (right) side mirror wired so that up & down are reversed.

     

    It's a 2008 USDM car, with heated mirrors.

     

    Right now I have this wire arrangement on the right mirror, that leads to a reversed up & down mirror angle for the joystick control:

     

    (mirror) purple ---> (car) blue & white striped

    (mirror) pink ---> (car) blue

    (mirror) black ---> (car) yellow

    (mirror) white ---> (car) blue & yellow striped

    (mirror) blue & red soldered together ---> (car) blue & red striped

    (mirror) black ---> (car) black

    (mirror) green ---> (car) black

     

    And just for reference again, the driver's (left) side all works perfectly, and so here is the color connection chart for the left side:

     

    (mirror) purple --->(car) red & white striped

    (mirror) pink ---> (car) red & yellow striped

    (mirror) black ---> (car) yellow

    (mirror) white ---> (car) black

    (mirror) blue & red soldered together ---> (car) blue & red striped

    (mirror) black ---> (car) black

    (mirror) green ---> (car) red & black striped

     

    Thanks much, iNfEk.

    My mirrors only have 9 wires and yours have 10, so our results seem to be different. Are they from the older style A-C 05-07 mirrors? Your vehicle only has 7 wires in an 8 pin connector, while your mirrors have 10 wires in a 10 pin connector. On the passenger side vehicle harness, what is this blue wire you speak of? Is it blue/green? You seem to have the proper connections made. Your JDM mirrors may need that extra power wire separate from each other for a reason.

  7. Dade was going to do so earlier in the thread, but never did.

     

    Better late than never right? :rolleyes:

     

    This is a complete breakdown of the wiring colors for the mirrors based on my 2008 spec.B with some facelift JDM D-F mirrors. These JDM mirrors have only 1 power wire for glass adjustment. Your JDM mirrors may differ. See the attached wiring diagram for confirmation.

     

    [b][u]Connector	Pin #	Mirror Color	Harness Color	Function[/u][/b]
    Driver (D5)	1	Green		Red/Black	Turn Signal +
    Driver (D5)	2	Black		Yellow		Heater +
    Driver (D5)	3	Blue		Red/Blue	Adjustment +
    Driver (D5)	4	White		Black		Turn Signal -
    Driver (D5)	5	Black		Black		Heater -
    Driver (D5)	6	Pink		Red/Yellow	Adj Up/Down
    Driver (D5)	7	Purple		Red/White	Adj Left/Right
    Driver (D5)	8	N/A		N/A		N/A
    Driver (D5)	N/A	Brown		N/A		Fold
    Driver (D5)	N/A	Grey		N/A		Unfold
    Passenger (D15)	1	White		Blue/Yellow	Turn Signal +
    Passenger (D15)	2	Black		Yellow		Heater +
    Passenger (D15)	3	Blue		Red/Blue	Adjustment +
    Passenger (D15)	4	Green		Black		Turn Signal -
    Passenger (D15)	5	Black		Black		Heater -
    Passenger (D15)	6	Red		Blue/Green	Adj Up/Down
    Passenger (D15)	7	Purple		Blue/White	Adj Left/Right
    Passenger (D15)	8	N/A		N/A		N/A
    Passenger (D15)	N/A	Brown		N/A		Fold
    Passenger (D15)	N/A	Grey		N/A		Unfold
    

     

    Please note: The turn signal wires are swapped driver to passenger. They are probably wired backwards inside the mirror housing or something. This matters because they are LED's, and won't light up at all if the polarity is reversed. The heater wires don't matter if they are swapped (they're both black in the mirror).

    USDM 2008 Mirror Wiring.pdf

  8. Pink and purple are swapped left door to right door, but I believe that is for the LED adjustment motor. I noticed this when I re-pinned using the 10 pin connector. I still have to run two wires to each door, so I'll get pinouts and colors tomorrow for you.

     

    What is this blue and red together stuff? I didn't have to splice anything and all the mirror functions work properly. I do have D-F mirrors though, so maybe it's an A-C thing? I have 9 wires available in my 10 pin connector.

     

    EDIT:

    I don't have a red wire. Blue for power only. LED's are green/white. Try swapping pink & purple.

     

    EDIT2:

    Ok, to quote a famous politician, "Let me be clear:"

    The only things swapped left to right (driver to passenger) are the LED pins.

    The A-C mirrors must have a different/extra power wire. My D-F mirrors only have 1 adjustment power wire, which is blue.

    My driver's side JDM mirror has a pink wire for up/down, and a purple wire for left/right.

    My passenger's side JDM mirror has a red wire for up/down, and a purple wire for left/right.

    If you have both a pink and a red wire, you may have two power sources for adjustment.

    If your vehicle has 7 pins in an 8 pin connector, you only have one power source for adjustment (Red/Blue).

    If your vehicle has 8 pins in an 8 pin connector, you probably have two sources for power adjustment.

    You should probably look at your vehicle and confirm this before ordering JDM mirrors, and confirm the number of pins in the mirror harness (9 pins or 10 pins).

  9. I hate to echo others comments, but I too have nothing but good things to say about Dave @ CryoTune. Dave road tuned my car a couple days ago. He is very professional and helpful. As an engineer, I asked him lots of questions, and he was happy to answer and explain everything. On the Cobb Stg2 OTS map, my car was knocking slightly, and was making too much boost. With our altitude and crap gas, I feel much more confident that my engine is running exactly as it should without endangering any components. I was experiencing lag and then a jerk when coming on boost with the Cobb OTS map. The power is now more linear. She pulls to redline, and the spool is early and very smooth. I love my CryoTune, and I would highly suggest it to everyone, both local and e-tune customers. I'll be coming back when I go Stage 3..... :lol:
  10. With the caliper dimensions, my only concern here is that the Wilwood caliper and pads are smaller in height. I had a harmonic issue with the tC and had to go to Wilwood two-piece rotors because the pad was not tall enough. I am going to research this more.

    http://www.wilwood.com/images/Caliper/images_dimensions-lg/Forged_Superlite_Internal-cm-lg.jpg

    http://www.wilwood.com/images/Caliper/images_dimensions-lg/7420-pd-lg.jpg

  11. The calipers that came with the kit are no longer available, as willwood changed the design a bit. The new ones are actually a bit better as they are not side specific.

     

    "It has been redesigned with internal fluid ports that eliminate the external fluid cross-over tubes, along with any potential problems that could arise from a damaged tube. The transfer tube has been replaced with two additional bleed screw assemblies which allows this group of symmetrical piston bore models to be mounted either right or left in a leading or trailing position."

     

     

    Eric at brakeswap is not selling the "kit" anymore but......

     

    You can get the brackets from Eric at Brakeswap and then just purchase the calipers.

     

    The new caliper part number is:

    120-11132

    http://www.wilwood.com/Search/PartNoSearch.aspx?itemno=120-11132

     

    I purchased mine from Summit Racing

    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-120-11132/

    WIL-120-11132

    Thanks Scooby. I put these calipers on my Scion tC. I had an issue with Wilwood's aluminum bracket, so I made my own out of steel (laser cut and powder coated). Since I still have the drawing, the Wilwood side should still be applicable. It would just need to be modified to the Subaru side. If we can't get them from Eric, I may start making them. This Wilwood caliper is incredible, and the cost of the Brembo calipers far exceed their value. Would anyone be interested in a group buy if I make these brackets?

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