TDWPgtp

Got mine done last week. It seems to actuate faster and more smoothly. I'm not sure if they adjusted the actuator or what but it sounds better. As long as it doesn't fail, I'm happy.

God, do I wish I had the ability to swap a better motor into a 3rd gen wagon.

Hey this thread is for turbo 2.5GTs only! Kidding:rolleyes: Anyway, this thread really isn't very active, so you will probably get more responses elsewhere. I'd try out the 3rd gen section, specifically, if that even has enough activity these days. Unless you have something specifically wrong, the only things you really NEED to look out for are head gasket leaks (internal is serious, external depends on severity mostly), timing belt/associated pulleys, and rust. Check your coolant for oil and your oil for coolant. That will tell you whether the head gaskets are leaking internally. If the timing system has not been changed yet, change it as soon as you can. It is a small investment to protect your engine from certain failure. Check front and rear subframe for rust holes. If none exist yet, there's nothing to worry about there. I live in Fairview as well, and am looking for a 2000-2004 Legacy wagon for an extra car. My daily is a 2011 Legacy GT

I'm not sure. They are half inch stainless rods and are quite strong. I'd definitely need to remove the exhaust and torch them to do so. The shorter isolators are only a few mm shorter, sland I have a lot more than that to go, although it would be a start. Nvakeith : did you notice any increased noise or vibrations from using the center hole?

So I got my SPT exhaust installed the other day. The fitment isn't perfect on my car, even though it was pretty good on another 5th genner's car. The tips hang pretty low, and they don't make it quite all the way to the cutouts. It doesn't look horrible, but it doesn't look good. As for the sound, it is a bit louder than I had hoped. 2000-2500 (or so) rpm is quite loud to me. It does sound good when you get on it, but is louder than I'd like under normal driving. I guess I will be looking into adding a resonator or something.

I'll have to disagree about the lowering; While I, myself, decided to keep factory ride height, I think our cars visually benefit GREATLY from a small drop. The gap between the tire and fender is huge from the factory, and a little low helps a lot. On the exhaust topic, I believe all WRX/STI exhausts from 08 and up fit, with slight modification to the mid pipe, but the dual tips on each muffler will not fit our bumper exits well. There were, however, a small amount of SPT single tipped muffler dual exhausts made in, I think, 2010. I am actually getting one this weekend for my GT.

I have a clunk in the front left from specific types of bumps that showed up after installing the Konis and 13-14 springs. I've tightened everything and cannot seem to fix it, although it doesn't seem to happen much in warm weather. I don't think that the koni and 13-14 combo is the cause, but merely makes it noticeable, since it is stiffer than OEM and 10-12 springs. I suspect that the OEM stuff absorbs the energy before it is able to cause the clunk in most cases.

Man, I wish would have had that deal when I bought wheels. I'd have considered selling mine now, if this deal wasn't over.

I never knew this was a thread:rolleyes: Age: 26 or so Male Occupation: Mechanical Engineer/Test Engineer Other interests: Home/vintage audio equipment, woodworking, car stuff Current Cars: 2011 Legacy GT, 1973 MGB, 2005 Camry (complete with Camry Dent!!!! from previous owner) Past Subarus: 2010 Legacy 2.5i, 2000 Legacy L wagon Mods: XRT tune Koni inserts with '13 springs boomba shift plate perrin brass bushing 18x8.75 +33 XXR 530 and some 245/45R18 tires E-bay "v-limited" lip (soon to be installed) Whiteline adjustable rear LCA (soon to be installed) Some stiffer RSB (soon to be installed)

I need some graphite doors if they are in good shape... hmm Whoever buys it, let us know!

Damn, that is a fantastic price for a great car with low mileage, and in the right color, too.

So I just stumbled across this exhaust. I can't seem anyone but the manufacturer that sells it for our cars. I really like this sound, and would love to find something that sounds similar, or find a cheaper place to buy this one. Does anyone have any other experience with this exhaust or something that sounds similar?

But as I said, the clunk simply does not happen with the stock suspension on my car. That suggests that something (the LCA bushings, according to others here) is not designed to work with the stiffer suspensions that we are putting on our cars. Anyway, does anyone know if DOHCLGT ever installed the AVO bushings? Did they end up solving it?

Seriously. Had I known this was going to happen, I may have reconsidered... But anyway, it isn't a lowered suspension problem, it is a stiffer suspension problem. I'm on stock 13-14 springs with the Koni struts, and as I turn the koni stiffness down the clunk happens less frequently.

I forgot to respond to this thread. I took the strut out and checked to verify that it was bottomed out and that the nubs were properly seated, which they were. After reinstalling the koni assembly, the pop seemed to happen less frequently, but still happens. Now, it could be coincidental or I am avoiding bumps more, but either way it is still popping. So what is everyone else doing that is having this problem? Is everyone just living with it? Don't I risk further damage the more I drive on it?

After a couple days on the stock strut and spring, I have heard no popping. The only way I could see that it would be some other part of the suspension is if the stiffer strut/spring combo is putting more stress on another joint somewhere. I think I am going to swap top hats from the stock assembly to the koni/'13 spring combo, and see if the pop goes away, since that is the easiest and free-est option. I don't believe that the strut was cut at the wrong location, but who knows. How could I identify whether or not the insert is properly bottomed out? I don't recall exactly why too long of a housing causes any problem. What exactly prevents it from going in all of the way? I have mine shrink wrapped to keep water out, so I'd prefer not to cut it off if I don't need to.

Hello everyone, sorry for bringing this thread back from the dead, but it hasn't been inactive for that long:icon_bigg. I am on Konis with '13-'14 springs, otherwise stock. I recently noticed a sort of pop coming from the driver's side front when hitting certain types of bumps, usually raised patches of blacktop with gentle slopes. This pop has gotten worse over the last few weeks and I would like to figure out how to fix it. Last night I replaced the front left koni strut assembly with my OEM strut and '11 spring, just to see if it eliminated the noise, and it did. I drove over the same bumps that had been making the koni assembly pop without pops today. So now I am wondering what to do. I would assume the only things it could be are a bad top hat or an insufficient press fit between the insert and the housing. The housings were cut right on the money, so I don't think it was an issue there, but the inserts were used, so it is possible that the little nubs were worn down a bit. If the insert IS NOT tight enough in there, what can I do about it? What are your thoughts?

Right, but at 15k, that would have been a bargain! There wasn't a reserve, it seems

Do we know who's car this is? I can't believe it didn't get a single bid in that auction

Winter is coming, it's time to make money on AWD cars

Looking good, guys! Someone will appreciate it down the line. And that red one with 30k miles has to be a scam, right?

Actually, come to think of it, it would probably be in our best interest to also include some key information, in the event that the picture and the link get removed or something. Year, mileage, price, title condition, etc. would be helpful for people looking to get an idea of the market history

Can we include the link AND a picture. Without the link it is hard for people to actually look at the ad.

Fellas, I was going through the instructions again before the installation, and I noticed that in the 4th gen instructions thread, step 12 shows a lock washer for item D. I did not get split washers with my front inserts, but I do have the deformed top nuts that are designed to lock. Do I need split washers up front? Or did the 4th gens have a normal top nut?

Compressing auto springs is something that terrifies me every time I do it, especially with the handheld rental compressors. MGT, do yourself a favor, if possible, and find someone with a wall mounted compressor. It will at least make it a little less unnerving. I have access to one here, but I would assume you don't want to drive all the way to Cleveland to use it.