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Posts posted by Roke
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I have Koni yellows. Front at 50/50 (soft/hard) and a quarter turn stiffer (because wagon) in the back. Prova springs. The drop is approx. 0.6 inch in the back and 0.8 inch in the front. Maybe the drop became a BIT more after a while. I posted the pics at the top of this page. Here's a better view of the current ride height:
http://myalbum.com/photo/9jo2afVb53oa/360.jpg
(225/40/18" tires)
Never had any problems during daily driving while there's A LOT of speed bumps here in the Netherlands. It's clearly stiffer than OEM, but still a very comfortable ride. I turned them all the way to full stiff for just one day. Annoyingly bouncy! NOT recommended.
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http://myalbum.com/photo/18GUFO8EK3ni/360.jpg
http://myalbum.com/photo/0M71m5r4dbM2/360.jpg
http://myalbum.com/photo/dLqqCthT6f1m/360.jpg
http://myalbum.com/photo/isiWbeIxxEIN/360.jpg
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Thanks for the link to your mod! I came across that topic while searching for exhaust options.
I used Hamerite heat proof paint. I'm also wondering if it will hold. I actually had to paint them because the previous owner did that too. I painted the back of the rusty muffler on my mother's Fiat Panda almost a year ago to test it. That still holds up fine. But I didn't paint the back of my stainless mufflers I had before because I thought that surface wouldn't hold the paint for long.
I had a Invidia Q300 catback for some years. That looked and sounded great, but since my Legacy is N/A it became way too loud, even with silencers in each tip. The fact that my Legacy is a wagon didn't help much either. I did try to block out some exhaust sound by isolating parts in the trunk and rear hatch, but that didn't help much. So I decided to go back to stock. I did that yesterday.
http://myalbum.com/photo/MThhSSp5RjwC/360.jpg
It's quiet like a walk in the forest now, but to be honest I like it. My wife likes it even more. I still have a bit of a rumble because I have the RalliSport Racing UEL header with Magnaflow high-flow cat. I sounds a bit like a classic VW Beetle or Saab now.
My stock mid pipe has a stainless straight through resonator welded inbetween, so that opens up the exhaust a bit.
http://myalbum.com/photo/6AZolukwDxeZ/360.jpg
But off course the factory mufflers block the flow greatly. Although, I can't say I really lost much power. Maybe 10-15% less torque. N/A cars like back-pressure, so I might even have some benefits over the 3" > 2.5" (way to big) plumbing after the ECU adjusted itself a bit.
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Thinking of modding your factory mufflers? They're pre-shaped. No options to put a tip on it you like. But it's quite easy. Just bolt off the factory tips and cut off the 'trumpet'. Patch mufflers up while your at it.
http://myalbum.com/photo/UvJIpipjZL6o/360.jpg
http://myalbum.com/photo/kz2KfZajNpSz/360.jpg
http://myalbum.com/photo/NAVW7IWFD59S/360.jpg
http://myalbum.com/photo/JNib2POeveSV_oFQnxv/360.jpg
http://myalbum.com/photo/jET2ISfbyFvK/360.jpg
http://myalbum.com/photo/1QGLbtQHRgKc/360.jpg
( ^ metric)
http://myalbum.com/photo/TEXcybXxYR6M/360.jpg
http://myalbum.com/photo/pJqOGV5HAE6u/360.jpg
http://myalbum.com/photo/HF54jHaxYwIE/360.jpg
More info? Ask!
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Beautiful car and great pictures! Thanks for posting!
Thank you very much!
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A friend of mine shot these pics of my car during the two day tour called 'Winding Road Challenge' we drove with 32 other Subaru's. Most of these pictures where taken at a abandoned factory in Germany. The last picture was taken at a quarry. I lowered the car on Prova springs since my last post.
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Grotefoto-UBGQ3PE7-G.jpghttp://www.mijnalbum.nl/Grotefoto-GL3EMJRE-G.jpg
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Grotefoto-6UUS38TI-G.jpghttp://www.mijnalbum.nl/Grotefoto-4BG7QJLU-G.jpg
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Grotefoto-D7IZ8XQP-G.jpghttp://www.mijnalbum.nl/Grotefoto-IWPNTPB8-G.jpg
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Grotefoto-7DELSTKZ-G.jpghttp://www.mijnalbum.nl/Grotefoto-MKRRAN36-G.jpg
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Grotefoto-3HJINB6N-G.jpghttp://www.mijnalbum.nl/Grotefoto-7IRC3BE3-G.jpg
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I've started maintaining my own cars since I got this Legacy 5 years ago. I have done and learned a lot. (As always the biggest lessons where learned from mistakes.) But there is still much more to learn than I know now. Still feeling noob-ish. It's great fun though...most of the time.
This thread has been VERY helpful for me.
Good luck on tracking down your mysterious issue(s).
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Yeah, I found out today the technique I found is totally unnecessary. The nut is high enough to simply use a pass through wrench. Excuse me for polluting this thread by posting something before actually trying it myself.
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Hi,
I did this install I while ago, but I recently swapped the springs from Vogtland to Prova.
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-CJOC3AP7-G.jpg
While looking for a good way to torque the front upper strut nuts, I came across a great idea in a Saab forum. It's described in post number 7.
http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=230476
Until now I just torqued it while the car is on the ground. The shaft spinned a little until there's some resistance from the shock / spring / tire, but it works. There's some flex, so that influences the torque specs. That's why I kept looking for a better solution.
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Shot some quick cell phone pix during sunset yesterday. These moments keep reminding me 'm still very much in love with QSM (called Urban Grey Metallic here in Europe.)
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-JWWR3ERW-G.jpghttp://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-XBAFDN4A-G.jpg
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-PPZHGC3Z-G.jpghttp://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-EQX7VMJU-G.jpg
(Please don't mind the front wheel gap. The ground wasn't level.)
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Does this trick only work with HID's, and does it screw up the light cutoff like it looks like it would?
Sorry for the late reply.
With halogen bulbs there's no use in doing this. I did this to change the direction the 'rod' that's running alongside the HID bulb is facing. That rod casts a shadow if mounted without this mod. (A halogen bulb doesn't have this rod.)
The light cutoff didn't change. I simply rotated the bulb. Nothing else was changed.
Maybe the bulb is tilting a little bit out of center because by cutting the bulb base you lose one of the 3 dents in the metal. (I can't find words to describe this better in English.) But I can't imagine that causes any major problems. The light image projected on the road looks a lot better since I did this.
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Here in Europe this color is actually called Urban Grey, but that doesn't really matter.
Some pics. Some new, some old.
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-UYQ7BR37-G.jpghttp://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-6CBIG6YS-G.jpg
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-IEYWEDWC-G.jpghttp://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-8H3YM8X6-G.jpg
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-AD6I7NCD-G.jpghttp://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-ESGLTTON-G.jpg
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Thanks for posting these with pics.
You basically rotate the bulb? You cut the lip of the bulb, so, it would fit the housing? Did you do both side or just driver side?
Indeed you simply rotate the bulb with the 'rod' facing downwards. (No interference with the light coming from the top and the sides of the bulb, which is projected downwards and sideways.)
I used a good pair of pincers to cut the bulb base. I fits very well; it can't rotate.
I did both sides.
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I think I can contribute to this thread! I've tried and done a lot of things. Some of them are already gone, but here goes:
Wrap chrome grille 'bars'. Remove grille > remove bars by unscrewing them > spend some quality time at your kitchen table. I used black 3M di-noc, but you could use silver carbon look, aluminum, heck, even gold.
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-LVXHTDXJ-G.jpg
Wrap interior parts:
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-RGNZOUZO-G.jpg
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-LACVXKNM-G.jpg
Wrap strip above licence plate:
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-IYPGTIEE-G.jpg
Plasti-dip weathered bumper protection plate. (Don't have better words, I'm Dutch.)
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-MSHL6SNL-G.jpg
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-MOFSC68G-G.jpg
Cut your expensive aftermarket HID bulb for better light image on the road.
Before mod: (check out dark spot on the left and overall light)
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-QYZJN637-G.jpg
After mod:
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-SHX3PAKZ-G.jpg
Mod itself:
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-8QM8IGNP-G.jpg
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-HSCWBAZU-G.jpg
(Red dot = 'rod' that runs next to bulp, again lost in translation.)
Exhaust too loud for you or you won't get wife approval? Fit silencers and 'Paint it Black'.
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-DKDTM3FY-G.jpg
(Invidia QS 300 with Ulter Sport NX70D tips. They fit perfectly. Silencers from eBay; 60 mm meant for motorcycles. Google 'em!)
For those who are interested.
Sound without silencers: http://youtu.be/iDqPMk5ueTI?list=UUXPjMPsgbYUrtsPFzOu1dkg
Sound with silencers: http://youtu.be/DLHueRhOaek?list=UUXPjMPsgbYUrtsPFzOu1dkg
Questions? Feel free to ask.
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Finally some sun!
Shot 2 pics of the newly painted rims by sunlight.
Finally the tiny amount of 'copper' mixed through the graphite comes out a little.
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-PVFFSY3E-D.jpg
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-HJUH4G3F-D.jpg
These are the last pics of these rims I'm posting...otherwise it could get anoying. ;-)
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What was your paint process?
I'll try to sum it all up for you.
It was my first time by the way.
mark weights (not only on tire, also on a piece of paper)
remove weights
deflate tires (for cards and less risc of hitting tire with sanding paper)
cleaning with rim cleaner
cleaning with water and soap
degreasing
sanding 240
cleaning with water
sanding 400
sanding 600
cleaning with water
wet sanding 1000
cleaning with water
24 hours of drying (no water between rim and tire)
degreasing
3 coats of black primer (about 15 minutes between coats)
24 hours of drying
sanding 1000
decreasing
4 coats of metallic paint (about 15 minutes wait between coats
1 hour wait
3 coats of clear coat (about 30 minutes wait between coats...should have been 4 or 5 coats, I underestimated this final clear coating process)
48 hours of drying
putting weights back on (with 3M tape for the flat ones inside the rim)
some more drying
infate tires
mount wheels
shoot pics and enjoy!
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nice color. how many deck of cards did you use.
I used 5 decks.
1 deck while spraying the black primer. But that was a mess!
So I bought 4 more decks for the rest of the process.
Used about the half of them twice. (flipped 'em)
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As promised:
Self-painted stockers by daylight:
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-4AUGPKC7-D.jpg
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-8DFRBIN4-D.jpg
Really love 'em. The car also stands out more than it already did here in the Netherlands.
(The Legacy is a real rarity here...)
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Finished painted my stock rims (that was monday actually) and mounted them tonight.
The color is custom: gunmetallic with a sniff of copper since QSM contains some copper chips too. I quessed that would look good...and luckily I guesed right.
I think they look awesome! Some pics:
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-HGR6NJKI-D.jpg
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-CR6SUIPE-D.jpg
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-UCCRIDMD-D.jpg
http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-3VJGT6UV-D.jpg
I'll shoot some daylight pics tomorrow.
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Here in Europe Quartz Silver Metallic is called 'Urban Grey Metallic'.
I am painting my stockers at the moment. Had a hard time picking a color.
Made myself a video out of a lot of pictures I found in this thread.
It helped me pick the right color. (Gunmetallic with a slight touch of copper)
Since they are your pics you should enjoy the video too:
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NQxh8hvraFw]Wheel color options QSM / UGM Subaru Legacy IV - YouTube[/ame]
Do not hesitate to let me know if you want to have your pics removed from the vid. :-)
Official Quartz Silver Metallic Thread
in Legacy Photos (2005-2009)
Posted