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Rome_STI

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Posts posted by Rome_STI

  1. Yay, another tuner that doesn't communicate.

     

    Why bother? Do you really want him tuning your car?

     

    I have never had an issue with his communication. I do know that he's not taking on any new customers for 1-2 months while he catches up on correspondence and retunes required.

     

    To clarify, I service pre-facelift LGTs, and I do have valve bodies ready to ship within a couple days of receiving an order.

     

    So does the new built box you have spoken about work with a post-facelift with no other modification or ECU reprogramming etc. required?

     

    No worries, that was more aimed at the Australians. Have several shipments going halfway around the world next week.

    Australia: Where muscle cars never died out.

     

    What makes you say this :lol:

  2. Rome yes it is but the valve body from climber d is not ready yet

     

    Yeh but you had an issue with using a post facelift box in your pre, why won't I have the same issue with using the pre facelift in the post?

     

    Which one of you "Aussies" has "throttlehappy" email address?

     

    Has he tuned either of your cars and your 5EAT's?

     

    And yes both of us have had our cars tuned by throttlehappy

  3. A few guys have mentioned the issues of not being able to shift between gears. I have a 5EAT that is equivalent to an 08+ in the states, dr20t has a 5EAT equivalent to your 03-07 models. Both of us have an issue of boost/fuel cut when going from 1st to 2nd on high boost, afaik dr20t has the issue sometimes from 3rd to 4th as well occasionally.

     

    Both our cars are at around 340-350 whp, and both of our cars have set 12 second quarter mile times, his best being 12.21, my best being 12.55 but my time was set with this issue occurring between 1st and 2nd gear. This issue does not happen when I run my low boost setting of 18psi, unless it is a really cold night, our high boost settings are similar at 20-21 psi.

     

    This has been attributed (rightly or wrongly) to the HKS EVC that we use holding boost to redline, the car revving out too fast for the TCU to recognise it needs to shift, then the car hitting the boost/fuel cut limit and cutting power for that split second. The tuner is not able to taper boost with this boost controller. However, the perceived fix is that we use the HKS Ezy Writer which is software and a hardware unit that connects into the boost controller. It can be used to give the tuner flexibility to taper boost.

     

    I'm hoping that once these changes have been made the issue will be alleviated and I can finally get the low 12 second pass I've been wanting!

     

     

    In other news, I launched my car fairly hard the other night, but failed to hold onto the brake hard enough as my car crept forward while stalling up. This is very very bad and I now have what sounds to be a bearing noise upon light throttle in certain situations. Fairly certain I have done some damage to the centre diff. After countless launches at the drags and otherwise, I can't believe I was stupid enough not to press the brake pedal hard enough! Lax moment of concentration but the good news is nothing has broken, but it sounds to be on the way out!

     

    That is all, sorry for the wall of text!

  4. Agreed I could set up a tranny fund but I prefer to beef things up prior to adding too much power reducing the risk of major $$$ breaks later. The cost or rebuilding the tranny would be much more than upgrading the transmission first (were the upgrades available). Congrats on your tranny holding up with that kind of power, thats pretty awesome. But it certainly doesn't seem to be the norm. Plenty of folks having problems at a basic stage 2.

     

    I have current plans of a stronger stage 2 setup but for me a bigger turbo will be waiting.

     

    Yeh mine's been at least at stage 2 since May 2011! So that's over a year and a half and about 35,000kms (not sure how many miles that is).

     

    But yeh point taken, I just don't like to wait for things ;)

  5. This time last year I was hearing spring time. Just want an honest answer. Is it even being worked on? What is the actual progress on it? Not trying to be a bother, was just really excited for this years ago. My future upgrades have been on hold for a long time.

     

    Really? You have waited this long to upgrade your car just because of this? Why not just save ~$30-40 per week to go towards a new tranny and upgrade your car now.

     

    My car is running ~330hp at the wheels (probably more now) on E85 and tranny has held up fine for a couple of months, was running close to 300 before that for a couple of months. Basically I've been running close to a 20G turbo for 4 months and tranny is still fine, this has included a track day and about 20 runs at the drags. I've got money set aside so if anything goes boom I can afford to fix it. This is the risk we run when modifying cars. There is a risk my tranny might go, but there is also a risk my engine might go eventually as well.

     

    For now I have bought frank_ster's bronze bushings, might look at doing valve body mods in the future but next I want to upgrade the stall converter

  6. Took it for another run after switching to ethanol. I use E-flex which is available at the bowser and is about E71. Ran 12.53 @ 112.95 mph last night.

     

    Timeslip:

    http://s11.postimage.org/wyy9xy2sj/12_and_a_half_pass.jpg

    Dyno graph:

    http://i.imgur.com/Uk83K.jpg

    More Porn:

    http://i.imgur.com/o1J8e.jpg

     

    Event: Hi-Tech Oils Race 4 Real Wednesday

    Location: Sydney Dragway

    Date: 12/12/2012

     

    Ambient Temp: 21C (70F)

    Elevation: 70m above sea level (230ft)

    Weather: Clear sky

     

    Car: 2007 Subary Liberty GT-B STi

    Tuner: Matt (throttlehappy) from KiDo Tuning

    Track info: 1/4 mile drag strip: http://sydneydragway.com.au/

    Transmission: 5EAT

    Peak Horse Power at RPM: 237kw (322hp)

    Peak Torque at RPM: Unknown

    Fuel: E-flex (E71)

    Engine/Power Modifications: Tomei ARMS M7960, Plasmaman FMIC, APEXI CAI, Greddy Trust RZ BOV, HKS EVC5, SARD Fuel pump + reg, ID1000 injectors, Custom 3" dump pipe into K2 Gear Spec-neo Ti dual catback exhaust.

    Driveline Modifications: None

    Suspension Modifications: Cusco Zero 2-E coilovers, STi front strut brace, STi front lower arm bar, cusco front swaybar and endlinks, cusco front h-brace, cusco transmission tunnel support, cusco floor braces, cusco rear swaybar and heavy duty sway bar mounts, cusco 4 piece rear under brace set, cusco rear strut brace, cusco brake stopper, cusco radiator brace, j-speed front lower arm bushes.

    Other Modifications: Prova air guide, cusco oil catch-can

     

    Had an issue shifting it into 2nd, 1st gear over-revs and even if I try to manually shift the auto it still hits the rev limiter and cuts power for a split second. I think this is costing me some good time as my half track time is similar to previously, but it is putting on an extra 10mph in the second half of the track compared to previously!

  7. All I needed was a retune :) you just need bigger injectors, larger fuel pump and preferably a fuel regulator, all of which I had installed before my initial pump fuel tune.

     

    I got 237kw atw (320ish hp) but that was on pump E-flex which is only E70 and still had a quarter of a tank of regular fuel in it so I recon true figure is now somewhere around 250 kw or 330ish hp...as I said tuner has the car shifting quicker so really excited to see what I can manage at the strip now! Will be going this Wednesday if the weather holds up!

  8. Timeslip:

    http://i.imgur.com/0SYoy.jpg

    Dyno graph:

    http://i.imgur.com/Qqtng.jpg

    Porn:

    http://i.imgur.com/y7UrK.jpg

     

    Event: Hi-Tech Oils Race 4 Real Wednesday

    Location: Sydney Dragway

    Date: 03/10/2012

     

    Ambient Temp: 18C (64F)

    Elevation: 70m above sea level (230ft)

    Weather: Clear sky

     

    Car: 2007 Subary Liberty GT-B STi

    Tuner: Insight Motorsports

    Track info: 1/4 mile drag strip: http://sydneydragway.com.au/

    Transmission: 5EAT

    Peak Horse Power at RPM: 208.9kw @ 5700rpm (280hp)

    Peak Torque at RPM: Unknown

    Fuel: 98RON

    Engine/Power Modifications: Tomei ARMS M7960, Plasmaman FMIC, APEXI CAI, Greddy Trust RZ BOV, HKS EVC5, SARD Fuel pump + reg, ID1000 injectors, Custom 3" dump pipe into K2 Gear Spec-neo Ti dual catback exhaust.

    Driveline Modifications: None

    Suspension Modifications: Cusco Zero 2-E coilovers, STi front strut brace, STi front lower arm bar, cusco front swaybar and endlinks, cusco front h-brace, cusco transmission tunnel support, cusco floor braces, cusco rear swaybar and heavy duty sway bar mounts, cusco 4 piece rear under brace set, cusco rear strut brace, cusco brake stopper, cusco radiator brace, j-speed front lower arm bushes.

    Other Modifications: Prova air guide, cusco oil catch-can, defi cr oil pressure and boost gauges, innovate wideband o2 sensor, various cosmetic upgrades

     

    Recently retuned on E-85 and netted a substantial power increase and tuner made it shift a lot quicker...heading back to the drags to see what it can get :)

  9. A thermostat would be a good idea. You won't notice any problems from overcooling. It will most likely only lower your mpg from the torque converter staying unlocked longer when it's cold. It won't damage anything, just mess with efficiency.

     

    My car's performance is more important than my fuel efficiency lol!

     

    Basically once the fluid and torque converter has warmed up it won't be an issue at all?

     

    PS looking at mounting the tranny cooler up in the top part of the engine bay where the top mount used to be as all that is up there now is an oil catch can!

  10. In terms of the comments on here that a transmission cooler will sometimes overcool which could be a bad thing...

     

    I have a Zero/sports transmission cooler yet to be installed. Given that Australia doesn't really get as cold days as you do in the States (the coldest nights in my area in winter would be around 5-15 degrees Celsius, or 41-59 degrees Fahrenheit), would I really experience much of this problem?

     

    I would say the temperature I would be driving around in would typically be from around 15C-30C, sometimes getting up to 40C in the summer (59F-86F, up to 104F).

     

    Thoughts would be appreciated

  11. Why does my car hold 1st gear on occassion when I WOT from a standing start in auto mode? It will rev to redline, hit it once or twice, then shift into second. It doesn't do it all the time, only sometimes, and it almost never does it if I WOT from a standing start in manual mode

     

    Why does my car shift itself before I can when WOT in manual mode. It will also register my shift so what ends up happening is it revs to redline, shifts itself, then because I had already shifted it up, it goes into 3rd almost a second later

  12. well we need to determine if its the new or old style. i don't know if there are any external casting differences between 05-07 and 08 + types. other than that a photo of the valve body inside of the cover would be a way to determine. it

     

    I THINK mine is the new style, it's a post facelift or series 2 in our market, the pre facelift or series 1 would be the old style?

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