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GTPpilot

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Posts posted by GTPpilot

  1. Please carefully examine the relay schematic (should be on the top or side) to ensure that it has a protection diode in it. It's not mentioned on the Autozone site for that part number.

     

    Subaru had to replace quite a few fried ECMs under warranty because one of the cooling fan relays from the factory didn't have a protection diode built in.

     

     

    Looked at the relay schematic. You are correct. No diode.

     

    Thank you !!

     

    Stopped at dealer and picked up an OEM unit. 82501AG05B

     

    Only $7. Go figure.

  2. Interesting. I am having almost exactly the same problem. Most of the time it works fine, but sometimes for not apparent reason, just starts blowing hot air. It feels like the compressor is kicking in, but I need to investigate that further.

     

    Thanks for the A/C clutch relay tip. Will have to double check that, as well as the actual clutch on the compressor.

     

    My outside air temperature display is working fine.

     

    I did have the system leak checked and recharged which improved it's performance when working, but didn't solve the problem.

     

    It's been intermittent for awhile, but it's starting to happen more and more often.

    Completely random. Sometimes at startup, sometimes after driving for awhile.

    Sometimes only for a few seconds, sometimes for a couple of days. Weird.

  3. Thread resurrection.

     

    Add me to the list that has had 2 low beams burn out at same time.

    Happened to me last night. Checked bulbs this morning. Both burnt out.

    Replaced and all good now.

     

    The weird thing is that I had 2 different Sylvania model bulbs installed

    at different times and they died together. Being 2 different bulbs may

    somehow have contributed to this ? I guess, I will just keep spares and

    a philips screwdriver in the car from now on.

  4. Yeah, I had very little trouble with the plugs once I found out I could move the motor with a jack handle just enough to get the ratchet on and off if needed. Only needed to do that on one plug though. Threads were pretty dry/tight and couldn't turn the extension by hand.

     

    I also will keep my OEM pump. Seems fine and looks good and clean.

     

    Only weird thing I have going on now is I have kind of whirring/whizzing sound at idle and only at idle. Tap the gas even slightly and it goes away. Sounds like its coming from either the alternator or the a/c unit or somewhere along the top driver side of the motor. Hard to pin it down further than that. Wasn't hearing that prior to changing the belts. Played around with accessory belt tension a bit, but not sure it made any difference. I guess I'm ok with it as long as it's not coming from the timing belt area. Sounds kind of like the supercharger on my old Pontiac.

  5. FWIW, I had to replace my Gates water pump after 20,000 miles because the shaft seal was leaking, I went with a OEM pump.

     

    aw man...now I read this. I just put a gates kit in yesterday. All went pretty well, just hope my waterpump holds up. I did use an OEM gasket though. I also used the Grimspeed pulley bolt removal tool. Worked awesome ! Pulling the radiator out was very easy. The vise grip method of locking the pulleys also worked out perfect. All the old parts looked great. Only part that seemed a bit shot was the a/c idler pulley.

     

    Thanks to all for information posted here !! I also found the meaty youtube video to be very helpful by making it look so easy. It kind of was. I still think changing sparkplugs is much easier than the timing belt service though....

  6. Changing the intake O-Rings finally cured mine.

     

    aaahhhh.....so much better now. Sitting at stoplights

    and in stop & go traffic used to be nerve wracking.

    Always thought she was gonna stall when the motor would

    randomly feel like it misfired.

  7. I know the feeling. I seriously think mine is going to stall sometimes, but it never does. I've kind of started to not worry about it anymore. Sometimes while sitting

    at idle it will give one big drop in rpm and go right back normal. Under very light throttle such as when stuck in bumper to bumper traffic is another common time for it

    to act up. Completely random though. My idle appears to be about 650rpm based on the factory tach. Seems a little low to me. What kind of rpm does everyone else idle at ?

     

    My car is completely stock. Also, the a/c compressor kicking in and out really sounds and feels extreme. Lights dim, etc.,. I think they even dim if the a/c kicks in at highway speed, but at least I don't feel it.

     

    I like the recent discussion of dirty butterfly valve or something. Seems plausible.

    Looking forward to hearing the results of cleaning that.

  8. ^^^ u ever go to mathies pond? sorry off subject, i saw a car like yours there once haha.

     

    Yup, I go there just to walk around once in awhile. Must have been really cool to have that house as a weekend retreat, eh ?

  9. Same here..cleaned MAF and all good now...so far. I'm not too excited yet, the problem was pretty intermittent but I have been in bumper to bumper traffic a few times since and that was when it always happened. Even with A/C on, no stumble.

    The IAT sensor was pretty dirty.

     

    You did tell me to do this along time ago MAX CAP but for whatever reason I kept putting it off til a recent roadtrip where it really pissed me off.

  10. Changed out the plugs this morning. Didn't need to jack up the engine. Whole procedure went pretty well thanks to all the tips here. I really only had to take the 3 bolts out of the air pump so I could move it a little bit to take the plastic pipe off it.

    Just rotated the pipe up and ziptied it out of the way. One tip I saw on another legacy gt forum was to use the handle from a floor jack between engine and frame rails to move the engine over a c.h.,. This saved alot of time getting ratchet on and off the extension on the passenger rear plug and to help get the socket and extension out of the driver rear. Seemed to be no danger of crossing threads. Plugs just slid in and started threading with no trouble using a little anti sieze. Was a different story on the '87 GL I had years ago. Mangled one of those plug holes !!

     

    So glad this is done and that it went so well !! Big thanks to all who contributed to this walkthrough. I hope the timing belt change next year at 105k goes as well.

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