leighos

New wheels = Happy [emoji2]

I asked about the rear since there is the rear apron body pop known issue with a tsb, but is fixed properly with a drill and a welder rather than their bullshit fix.

 

I said ball joint before, but sorry, I meant to swap back the OE tie rod ends.

What's this body pop? I have an odd noise coming from the rear that wasn't there before I lowered it, I assumed it was a bad rsb end link and making a knocking type noise with a bit too much preload on it (sorry for the thread highjack OP).

A little update, I put back the LCA and got the car aligned. I needed the car for a mini family trip this weekend so I couldnt wait for the bushing to come in. Anyways, driving the car all day today and I gotta say, i DO NOT like this whiteline roll center kit thing. My steering feels so twitchy. Every decent bumps and my steering would jerk. It was not like that before this kit. Even when I was lowered on H&R springs. Is this normal or am i missing something here?

That doesn't sound right, it should improve the front end noticeably, are you saying you are getting bump steer? What did you set your toe to? If you zeroed it all round you will notice it is very twitchy and less stable in straight ahead, turning response is awesome though so you just get used to the twitchyness!

Hi sir

My car is 2013 SUBARU Legacy wagon 2.5i.

Could I use KONI inserts parts , the parts No. is 8610 1447(fort) and 8010 1053(rear) because my car’s original shock brand is KYB. Thanks a lot.

No those part numbers suit the 4th gen (BL & BP)

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All the OEM bushings I mentioned are bonded solid rubber with internal steel sleeve.

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So just after you have done your spring install, go around and undo every nut/bolt that hold a bushing.

On the front, its just the LCA front bush. On the rear you have 2 on the UCA, 3 on the LCA (plus sway bar end link),2 on the trailing arm and one on the toe link (that would get done on alignment anyway).

Tighten them all up snug, but NOT torqued.

Put the wheels back on and car back on the ground, drive forwards and backwards a few times to let it all settle, I usually tap the brakes a bit to allow some compression.

Now the hard part, with the car at kerb weight, drive it up on some ramps (I drive mine up on a car trailer) and go around and torque them all up!

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Yes bushings, when torqued at the factory they are zeroed at kerb weight, allowing a few degrees of arm deflection in either direction. When you lower your ride height the bushings will require re-zeroing so they can again have that same range of deflection, if not done they will be fighting against the weight of the car and suspension travel wearing out faster or even tearing.

Its especially important with the rear given there are so many bushings, 8 per side compared to only 1 at the front!

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My Experience with the Koni and H&R combo...plus a lesson learned.

This may be more relevant to you non-USA 5th Gen owners, and perhaps more about the springs rather than the Koni's, but what the hell I've posted mostly in this thread so its an update to all that have followed.

So the Koni's are pure magic and I love them, the inserts were easy and everything about installing was straight forward. Many thanks to GTeaser for his info!

My issues have been with the H&R springs, specifically the rear. Outside the USA you get one choice for the 5th Gen - part# 29167-2, advertised to be suited to both BM & BR.

Immediately upon install I noticed a pronounced rear up rake which I did not like (just ask GTeaser!). Now the EE20 up front is slightly heavier than the EJ, so I expected a little nose down, but looking at every one else's photos the front gap is actually about the same.

Fast forward 3000km, the rear settled more but still not level (or 8mm lower as per FSM) with the front and rake still very obvious.

GTeaser and I came to the conclusion that due to BM & BR rear end weight difference, there is no 'one size fits all' regarding 29167-2, better suited to BR for sure.

Since I was looking to realign camber at the rear, I bought some Hardrace LCA's that have additional hub mounting holes for even lower ride height, fixed the rake problem straight away and got my camber back too.

Now for the lesson, after installing the springs in the first instance, I reset the bushes as I've done in every car I've ever lowered. But, since the drop was minimal I didn't think to reset again after the springs began to settle. They had been in tension nearly the whole time and effectively jacking the rear up! Man I feel stupid.

After all this drama, the net result is my happiness right here....

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161127/7aa33f45ec66877501bf844edef2c348.jpg

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Can I borrow that front end? Kthx

 

I would do a JDM grill and bumper swap if it didn't require the hood as well.

Over here it seems all the 09-12 have this type of grill and the 13-14 has the 'flat bottom' grill like you guys get. I thought all ours would be JDM styled, even if they were 'NZ new' like mine was.

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http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161125/abfc8cb87634669d9142ffcf3c2b0e0d.jpg

The BMD on a rainy spring day (NZ) [emoji6]

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I have some free time today, so I was going to cut up my donors.

 

Do Koni's really not come with a set of instructions on how to modify the donor struts?

Mine came with instructions

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161010/9f7888893ac4e7112c9e8ec1b0b78d38.jpg

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Koni front inserts done and installed! I'm a very happy Fifth Gen owner now [emoji2]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160902/7d690265bef28e331512f784873e2854.jpg

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Koni rears went in tonight, set to full soft the car feels amazing already, can't wait to get the fronts done.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160816/ba30565bf2c87198e287091b572dfae2.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160816/8d601d07bc01b0b7513931c537cb241e.jpg

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The shipping would be less if you cut the struts open and pull out the internals.

 

leighos, I have a set of struts sitting in my garage that I could cut and drill for you, all ready for you to bolt the Konis in. I am in California, so the shipping might be even less.

That would be awesome!

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He's in either AU or NZ I believe.

NZ, PM sent!

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The tophats arent cracked but they have soem rust which can be cleaned up. I just happened to have a pic of the whole set but yes, the rears are worthless.

 

The entire set is pretty worthless to me being lowered so hopefully someone else can put the to good use.

I'd want those front struts, but shipping to where I am will be a killer!

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Sounds good, but I also want to paint the empty struts before the inserts go in. We have a fairly strict vehicle inspection system here (called warrant of fitness) and I wanted to keep the install looking tidy and matching the rears to keep the inspectors happy, we actually need a modification certification here for coilovers but I think inserts are acceptable (hard to find definitive answer) but just in case they don't like the idea of me hacking into my struts, I thought I'd attempt to make it look like they were Koni strut assys, even with the little decals ;-)

And yes, have ordered new top hats as my legacy has done 200k km (125k miles)

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Big shout out to GTeaser for posting all the info about the Koni's. I bought 4 last night and can't wait to get the suspension dialed in!

2nd that! A wealth of knowledge that's given me the confidence to tackle a job I've never done before.

Just waiting now to get a set of donor front struts so I can build up and swap without too much down time on my daily, cant seem to find anyone with a worn out set for sale (here in NZ) and I don't want to spend a fortune on new just to cut up!

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Ah thanks for explaining that, makes sense now

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Thanks GTeaser, yes I will be patient and record how much it settles over the next few weeks.

I still don't really understand the function of the inactive coils that are constantly compressed and in contact with each other, even unladed (vehicle empty and half tank of fuel).

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Well here's that rake. I put the H&Rs in just on the OEM shocks for now. The front is a nice drop, but those rears don't look right at all, I guess they will settle a bit, but not by the amount in really needs.

No surprise though when you look at the inactive coils, they're just acting like damn packers.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160729/af08f8c4c9dab9f1d131e4d5c9d77ead.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160729/76aa03c3bb124000d94c2fd3b19ea407.jpg

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Yes, tophat spacers would work if you need them to level things out. I believe that's the part number for the EDM spec DIT Legacy Wagon, but a quick search on Ebay says it fits both BM and BR.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/H-R-lowering-springs-for-29167-2-Subaru-Legacy-Kombi-fits-Subaru-Legacy-Kombi-3-/381533267727

Correct, that eBay link is even the same supplier I used - Tunershop in Germany

I tried to do my research before ordering, but I seemed to be the first guy in the world who wanted to put lowering springs in a BMD! My concerns of engine weight on the front springs seemed quite valid after reading the issues you guys have had with the heavier 3.6 engines and the pronounced rake.

Assuming the EE20 to be heavier than the EJ255 that most of you guys run, I just couldn't find actual figures to back that up.

I contacted an engine importer and they said no difference in shipping weight between those two, only the 6 cylinder engines are much heavier.

So hopefully when I get them in I don't get that awful rake.

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