JMack

Well, I have been gone a while, but I bought a 2009 Legacy 2.5i sedan (not running) to part out and replace some bits for my 05 wagon.

On a side note, if anyone is in or near Ohio and needs something specific (interior is trashed), let me know!

Thank you!

They are the stock wheels, the ones designed by Porsche for the Blitzen.

Color me jealous... I like those!

it looks almost like an alignment pin for installing wheels that use bolts instead of studs with nuts (think VW and Audi), but those are normally threaded. It could be the shank of a bolt that someone cut to use as a punch. I make tools at work all the time out of old bolts or screws.

GL, listening and paying attention for a bit wouldn't hurt, but I think that you are good!

That permatex valve grinding compound is good. We use it at work (but not for valves, lol).

If you really need a new hose for your compressor, just go down to Walmart, they normally have a selection of hoses to pick from!

not today, but last night (super late).

Replaced RH front LCA (B-Spec style aluminum with poly bushings), inner and outer tie rods, hub/bearing.

Found out that my car (no real list of what has been done) has Epic Engineering Springs on all 4 corners (thanks everyone who has tried to help with that) with Koni Inserts, solid adjustable Front Sway bar with solid end links, bar stops, everything... Someone has put some money into it. Oh, it also had whiteline tie rod ends and LCA to knuckle ball joint (ALK, both of which were pretty well shot).

The heads themselves are not crazy expensive. It's all the additional labour that adds up to thousands it seems.

That is probably correct. Sorry...

The gold wheels look nice with the blue!

I'm trying to decide if I want to powder coat the original factory (5 spoke) wheels or mount the gold ones. Both have some curb rash and need to be repaired, but I am already working on that.

Those seem short for the photo…were they cut? Maybe it’s just me…I’d get some new ones if/when possible in there and get rid of the helpers. Never seen that in these cars...spacers, yes. Helper springs…yikes.

I have NO idea... Fun times getting a used car. I am looking at all of my options for suspension. I have 3 main ideas. 1 - New Koni inserts with H&R springs. 2 - Coilovers (almost the same cost as the Koni inserts and springs. 3 - go Bilstein. I am leaning toward the Coilovers (ISC's).

I'll try unplugging the combo meter today, but for clarity, this is fuse number 7 under the dash, not in the engine bay. I did check the dome lights, they are fine just burnt out. I also found some aftermarket BS tapping the mirror for power and ending in a phone jack? Removed that and fixed the wires. Didn't help, but makes me hope there is some addon garbage elsewhere causing the issue.

I just assumed the R167/i102 was a firewall connector (I work on Jets for a living, not these cars). When I see disconnects, they are normally because of a replaceable unit or a physical obstruction (firewall or bulkhead).

I would try the Cluster, or the BIU first. They both suck to get to, and may make it difficult.

In the 90's on jets, there was a similar "phone jack" type of electrical connector used. They could be for something like an old Radar detector or something similar.

Can you unplug the Combination meter? The wiring goes from FB-17 F/B Fuse #7 through the fire wall and plugs into A1 and A2 on the Combination meter. If the current draw remains, you will have something on that side.

After that, or possibly before, does the tach / trip stay on when the key is off and the door is closed and / or open? If I remember correctly, some cars had the trip / odometer turn on if you opened the door. I think this was so you could get mileage without the key?

Fuse #7 goes straight from the FB in the engine bay to the fire wall disconnect R167/i102 and then to the Combination Meter. The logic / path in the book shows that it goes into the power circuit and then the micro computer. then out a couple of ways (or distributed).

**Edit

Upon looking again, the wiring from Fuse #7 also goes to the TPM control module (if you have that). The security / immobilizer light. The wiring is simple but they complicate it by adding in the Combination meter logic information in block diagram form.

The top spring is what is known as a helper spring. This keeps the spring perch seated and in contact with the lower spring while there isn't any load on it. Not sure if this answers your question though. It should be known that other than two fairly rusty springs, I have zero idea of what spring/shock combo I'm looking at in this photo.

Thanks, that was what I was looking for. I know the struts are Koni inserts. The springs didn't look like anything that I have seen for this gen LGT, and I just had no ideas where it started at.

I would like to get into AutoX, but the wife is not happy about that idea right now. Long story short, I want better than stock. I already bought the hubs, so I am just going to do them, but I think I am going to order the CV boot rebuild kits as well (just to knock it out and not worry about them too much).

My end goal is 350+ WHP, and semi daily for it (I only live about 10 minutes from my workplace). Hoping to upgrade the turbo, TMIC, and injectors soon as well.

No panic. No Stage 2 maps either... they are all Stage 1 for USDM, why don't you look again? For ADM you can find the Stage 2 maps and they should be the same but they may not load depending how smart the AP is... either way, would be good to find the original maps from an AP for the WRX before they stripped all the Stage 2 maps

Ah, I didn't see that the stage 2 was not available... Wow... Glad I already downloaded the Stage 2 stuff for my car. I have only had it for a little while too, that sucks.

Anybody have any experience with the OpenPort 2.0 for cheap from the Amazons?

Earlier APs came with all the OTS maps ready to go. I have them backed up from the AP for my 05 AT GT Wagon - but my MT was pro tuned and the tuner cleared all the OTS maps before I made a copy. I am poking around trying to gather what maps I can get right now - what I am looking for is the Stage2 Maps for the 2012 WRX - I bought the AP in January for that car and the Stage 2 maps are not included...

They still show available for free on Cobb's website... What is the panic about?

Copied over from the suspension section.

Hey all, been quiet on here for a bit. I haven't been driving the car. Had some type of incident with the LH rear tire (worn already), and it went flat with a hole (kinda large) on the inside sidewall.

Anyway, I have been having some clunks in the front end and all my bushings are quite worn. I am replacing the control arms with Mevotech aluminum bits, and I am dabbling with replacing most of the front parts. Wanted to hear other opinions about it.

My idea is replacing both control arms (includes the ball joints), both bearings/hubs, and rebuilding the CV boots and grease while everything is apart. Also replacing the inner and outer tie rods. Wanted to get the front knocked out before replacing the tires (needed, and think I have it narrowed down) with Continental Extremecontact DWS 06+ (open to other suggestions however).

I'm honestly not sure if there are any issues with my CV axles (no popping or clicking really that I have noticed), but I may have the RH front leaking / torn (I know this is pretty common on them).

Any thoughts would be appreciated!

Hey all, been quiet on here for a bit. I haven't been driving the car. Had some type of incident with the LH rear tire (worn already), and it went flat with a hole (kinda large) on the inside sidewall.

Anyway, I have been having some clunks in the front end and all my bushings are quite worn. I am replacing the control arms with Mevotech aluminum bits, and I am dabbling with replacing most of the front parts. Wanted to hear other opinions about it.

My idea is replacing both control arms (includes the ball joints), both bearings/hubs, and rebuilding the CV boots and grease while everything is apart. Also replacing the inner and outer tie rods. Wanted to get the front knocked out before replacing the tires (needed, and think I have it narrowed down) with Continental Extremecontact DWS 06+ (open to other suggestions however).

I'm honestly not sure if there are any issues with my CV axles (no popping or clicking really that I have noticed), but I may have the RH front leaking / torn (I know this is pretty common on them).

Any thoughts would be appreciated!

Paint stripper shouldn't touch it since it's used all the time in aviation. Hence "aircraft paint stripper"

 

Planes are made of aluminum, and have been for the better part of a century now. Good luck!

 

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Little known fact, that "Aircraft Paint Stripper" isn't made for aircraft. In fact, it states right on the container "not for use on Aircraft", or at least it used to.

To answer the question though, this stuff works pretty well. I suggest roughing up the surface with a quick hit of sandpaper. The remover will "pop" the paint up, or gum it up (depending on type of paint it is touching".