ElanS2

0pps I got the front and back mixed up. The side with the printing faces the tire.

That is an air deflector flap found at the bottom of the wheel arch where the running board ends just in front of the tire. They do not last very long when exposed to snow and can be broken off when backing up. I gave up trying to keep one in place.

Part of the Subi underbody air flow management effort.

The top attaches with a plastic rivet/pin and the bottom hooks over the bottom of the running board.

The smooth side faces the tire. The side in the photo is not the smooth side.

 

 

Hello Syd, I recently did the same job after similar researches on youtube etc. My car 2007, Legacy, Gt Ltd, Turbo, Wagon, 200,000 kms , 120,000miles lots of rust, Canadian roads. I was inspired by the youtuber that works smarter and faster than Subi. His trick was to leave the trailing arms connected  and swinging the sub frame down after having removed its 4 attachment bolts. He supported the sub frame on a transmission jack while lowering it. This was t allow suficien t space to remove the tank.

I was doing the job in my driveway on my back under the car and do not have a transmission jack. His approach inspired me however to come up with an adaptation.

I obtained 4 very tall jack stands and 4 threaded rods about 50 cms long and nuts with the same thread as the 4 bolts retaining the sub frame to the body. With the car on the stands I had good access to the underbody. 0ne at a time the 4 major bolts were replaced by a threaded rod and a nut. I then was able to lower the entire sub frame by turning the nuts and not the threaded rod. The trailing arms are attached to the body by brakets having three bolts each. I removed all of them so that the trailing arm bushings would not be over rotated and stressed.  This was a slow operation and I was able to observe what else required detachement before over stressing it. The brake lines and the ABS lines were detached as well as the shocks. A total of 12 major bolts were removed to allow the entire sub frame to drop staight down. I did not plug the brake lines. Some fluid did leak out and was caught in a plastic sandwich bag hung over the end of the brake line and held in place by a rubber band. The nose of the car was slightly down  due to the slope of the driveway so very little fluid was lost. I eventually had to bleed the brakes. That was no problem as the car was nicely in the air. I did not detach the hand brake line/cable as it was slack enough due to the way it is held in place.

I replaced the filler pipe and the steel vent lines that came with it. They were very rusted in the horizontal section under the car, over the sub frame. With the sub frame dropped as mentioned it was easy to access the rubber connections to the various pipes and tubes.

The old tank came out very easy with the help of a floor jack to control it's descent. I replaced the straps too after having painted the new ones and recycling/reusing the old rubber sleeves.  All of the rubber pads on the old tank were reused on the new tank.

The new tank went in very easy once I managed to get it under the car and onto the floor jack. I had plenty of space to work and excellent visibility with the sub frame about 8 " down from the body. Raising it into place and installing the straps was easy.

I had to fabricate two brackets to replace the rusted ones that support tubes at each of rhe rear "corners" of the tank .

Raising the sub frame was easy too. The threaded rod trick worked very well and was safe too.  I am extremely satisfied with how things worked out.

Fortunately for me I am retired and have the time to undertake such a job.

 

Sorry I do not have any photos.  Tank, straps, filler neck, threaed rod and various new nuts and bolts all cost me +/- $1600Can. The jack stands cost me $75 Can each but I now have them for future use.

Take it to any quickie brake shop and get it done for less than $500CAN.

That is what I did about 10 years ago. It was done on at Saturday morning.

The Subie grease had been applied less than 12 months before.

I had a pipe failure 600 miles from home about 7 years ago. Had it repaired at a Midas muffler shop a Saturday morning for less than $400Can. Obviously it was not a replacement with OEM bits from front to back, but it did get me back on the road to home.

 

I thought car repairs were cheap in the US compared to Can. I get an alignment for $75Can before 15% of tax. $129US is ridiculous.

It is getting hard to find stuff for a 2007. Will have to buy an entire starter to change the armature. The one I have is Denso, the problem is that to replace the armature I need one that turns CCW. CW armatures are easily found but not CCW. Subaru is special !!

I have a starter in need of only the armature.

Is there anywhere that just that item can be purchased ?

Sub, Leg GT, 2007, Automatic Turbo.

Another question:

On startup the valve must be closed to do its job of creating turbulence that improves fuel vapourisation. Does it open gradually ( moderation ) or is it on/off. If it modulations that would explain the tapering off of the noise at the end of the sequence, but it will not explain the abrupt disapearance of the noise 5 sec after initial start up. There is perhaps a click when the valve reaches full open and also at full close. I will have to listen attentively now that I know what is going on. If I can hear both clicks that will be great.

I will also try and hear it on each side of the engine.

Will a 2007 GT have a TGV ? Answer Yes !

 

From the 2007 service manual:

 

A tumble generator valve is provided on each engine bank, between the intake manifold and intake air ports. The right bank tumble generator valve has butterfly valves for the #1 and #3 cylinders and the left bank tumble generator valve has those for the #2 and #4 cylinders. The two butterfly valves in each tumble generator valve are fitted on a single shaft that is driven by an actuator.

The tumble generator valves are controlled by the ECM according to the coolant temperature and the time elapsed after start of the engine.[/color] When the engine is started, the butterfly valves are moved to the closing ends. In this state, the intake air flows at very high speeds passing through narrowed passages in the directions determined by the individual intake air ports in the cylinder head. This creates tumbling air motions in the cylinders, which enables lean mixtures to be ignited and thus harmful exhaust emissions to be reduced during engine start. The tumble generator valves are fully open when the engine is operating at an ordinary driving speed, allowing intake air to flow without being changed in direction and velocity.

 

That certainly sounds like my situation.

Now I have to find out what my tuner did !

 

Monkey Thanks again for getting me onto the "TGV"

I am now a donating member thanks to you !

Will a 2007 GT have a TGV ?

Thanks again. I now remmber having seen that somewhere !

Sounds like it causes turbulence to the flow, perhaps to improve fuel/air mixing.

Can I reach it with the rod on my stethoscope ?

 

Is it behind the alternator ?

There is a device/connector there that is buzzing when the ignition is on and inaudible after starting.

 

I will try and see if the buzz remains once the engine is warm.

That will have to wait until I finish changing some heat shields

Cannot find a list of abreviations !

What is TGV ? throttle gate valve ?

And where is it ?

I think I have heard a click when the noise restarts but I cannot identify where it comes from other than possibly the driver's side under the intercooler maybe.

Monkey, Thank-you for your interest.

How long is a bit ?

The sequence is:turn ignition switch to on and wait +/- 15 seconds to allow gauges to stabilize, engage starter, immediately as engine starts loud roaring/growling noise and 2000rpm, less than 5 secs and loud noise disappears for +/- 3 secs and then returns to taper off and disappear for good over less than 30 secs as rpm decreases to +/- 1500.

Happens only when engine cold.

This has been happening since May meaning over the warm season here ( Sept-Iles Quebec along the north shore of the Gulf of St Lawerence ). We are about to enter the cold season and I am wondering what is in my future. Cold is down to at least 0ºF. Jumping to 2000 rpm does not sound good to me. Using 100% synthetic.

NASIOC comments indicate that there is something called "stratified start up" going on that should be disabled to stop this. Anyone know what that is and if it affects a 2007, Legacy GT, 5EAT ?

Instead of replacing a seized secondary air injection valve on the drivers side at an abusive cost and with no guarantee I had the entire system disabled. The pump was removed, the drivers side injection valve removed and a cover plate installed, and the air piping to the other side was disconnected. The passengers side valve remains, although it is not operating, and the electrical connection concerning the atmospheric pressure sensor is supposed to be still operational.

During the job I was sold on the idea of installing a 3" catted downpipe which was done 2 weeks after the removal/disabling of the air injection apparatus. At the time of the DP installation the tuning was modified in a manner that was not explained to me, "you wouldn't understand".

Now I am plaged with strange noises on start-up that disappear, then reappear before trailing off to a normal engine sound. The timing of this sequence repeats in a manner that indicates to me that it is controlled by something. None of this happens when the engine is warm at start-up, only on a cold engine. The rpm at start-up is just over 2000 and trails off to +/- 1500. The noise seems to be coming from the drivers side on the top of the block below the intake manifold. The timing chain and the AC pump have been ruled out. I have heard a click preceeding the final trail-off but I have not been able to locate it's source although it is on the driver's side below the intake manifold ( not in the center) where visibility is poor for my old eyes.

The experts that did the work have not been able to hear the noise because the engine is always warm when I get there and I am 600 miles from them so I do not get to the shop very often.

My question is this: Is there a start-up routine controlled by the computer that could be behind this ? My experts say no, but I find that hard to believe. The sequence is so consistant I doubt their statement.

2007 Wagon GT, turbo, 100,000 miles, no oil consumption, daily driver. I love this car.

I have been looking for something similar to my problem without sucess here. I also searched NASIOC for something with a little bit of sucess, but I am not able to get back to it. It seems that some people have experienced a simliar situation after a DP/tune.

Where is the boost control solenoid hiding ?

Is it easily accessible ?

Midas spliced inside the car under the seat.

Same thing happened to me two years ago on a weekend, No Subi open so I went to Midas.

Cost me 350$Can, 80 for parts and 2 1/2hrs labour.

The guy didn't waste much time being careful when removing the interior door trim and I had to put it back properly myself some weeks latter. The original pipes were well protected by a plastic sheath however the plastic was removed at each fixing clamp and that is where it corroded. Lousy fabrication. Made for operation in the desert.