Tomkat1127

There have been no problems with any customers being able to hold their upgraded power, but I do not know if anyone has gone over 350whp. I am rather certain you would be fine with any of the common street setups (16G, 18G, 20G, 68HTA).

That's good but not for my wallet if the 08+ ever happens.

i thought cobb had single tips and sprank/infamous had dual tips (meaning the sprank/inf was a quad tip total)... not the walls?

I am not 100% sure. I have not seen the Cobb version. I do remember reading in the mSprank/Infamous/Stromung GB or GI thread that the Cobb system is single wall tips.

We both may be right! Doesn't matter, both (meaning any Stromung made CBE for Legacy) can not be bought new anymore and that is a shame. The Stromung sounds good but is probably louder then Borla. Not that is a bad thing, some may like the softer tone of Borla. I wouldn't say my Stromung has a drone but at certain RPM's there is some resonance. It can't be too bad or my wife and two small kids would have complained.

:lol:

 

Phone or drunk posting FTL.

Stupid phone predictive text (and very tired, so was lazy and didn't proof read). That's the worse one yet......

Next time I will blame it on drinking.....

I'm debating between borla and stromung to complete the turbo back, has anyone noticed if either of these have any drone at highway speeds? It's 100kms round trip to work and back everyday and I can't justify the price if my head is buzzing the whole time.

Unless you find and buy a used Stromung, they are hard to find. There is the earlier COBB version with single wall tips and the Spank/Infamous. Version with double wall tips.

My vote is for Stromung of course I may a little bias since I now own one. It's not quiet nor too loud. With a patted DP it has nice tone under acceleration and mellows out under cruise or part throttle.

I ran across a company the specializes in manufacturing injection molding and they do prototyping. They are in China, so price, quality, and communication could be poor.

http://www.hoda-mould.com/index.asp

I have a contact name and email, if anyone wants to PM me to get it. I personally do not have the time to dedicate to such a project.

Add Kia A5SR1 & AFSR2 to the list. Might also see the similar transmission valve body in a Hyundai Genesis RWD! Some of the Genesis modders are getting pretty into things, perhaps something can be learned about that TCU, or that of the Kia transmissions.

 

Basically, we drive a Kia shift box

I like to think Kia stole it from Subaru....

Occasionally in Drive if Drive flipped to background temporary Sport mode. Sport itself can be a little rough if you briefly hit the gas and make it think you're going to go quick, but then pull off the gas.

I'm pretty sure I get that with a stock 08+ VB. If the TCU/ECM thinks you are trying to accelerate and it thinks it needs to down shift or if you were on the gas hard and then pull out, then it sometimes shifts a little hard. Not the only vehicle I have driven that acts that way. I just make sure that if a I commit to mashing the gas I also have the room to let it finally shift under power whenever fully possible. IMO, it happens to me more in Sport # (Sharp) due to the quicker downshift and longer hold point before up shifting.

Which vendors can i can contact on here?

 

I have been so busy with my job that i havent even had time to research anything lately. Sorry guys but full-time job comes first. I was taking this on when work was a little slower but now it is ridiculous again. So, I will look into this more maybe next week if i can manage some time. Thanks all

It's no biggie. I think most on here fully understand the busy aspect all to well. I know that I personally do not have time to invest in any side projects that may or may be make me any profit. However, if someone such as yourself takes on a project I am interested in. I have no problem taking a few moments to inject any ideas or knowledge I have.

I had considered originally to order the JDM units not know how different they were. I also considered hacking the bump and creating two vent holes covered from the back side with some type of screen netting (like the gutter stuff people are using to make their DIY grilles), dropped that idea in fear it would look rice/ghetto.

if SSM can read/flash the TCU, then we can. I'm thinking about hounding the ppl over at romraider to investigate the possibilities....

Stop thinking about it and lets do it. We really need a solution to the 5EAT owners wanting better than stock performance.

Right, I totally understand your Hex F1 is solely a mechanical change. You state that a software mod could do similar or better. In my mind (and that's a deep dark place that even I avoid) the ultimate would be a combination of the two. Mechanical mods to improve line pressures, spring changes, opening up (drilling), etc and any beefing up that can be done given typical available parts (not including custom parts). The electrical/software mods to improve transmission strategy for things such as the crappy shift timing, RPM points, etc.

I agree that the programmer (he better be a damn good software engineer) must also be a transmission expert and quite possibly a electrical/hardware engineer of some type. IMO, if the ECU can be cracked, so can the TCU. It's going to take someone above me to do it! Our problem stems from demand. All it takes is enough demand from a group for a company to invest in the R&D to do it. That or a talented and dedicated DIY'er from one or more of the occupations above.

2008 OEM VB ordered direct from Subaru. Shipping direct to Hexmods.

 

Good luck Climber. Hope my money is well spent.

THANK YOU, THANK YOU, AND THANK YOU. I will repay you by buying a CNT DP and misc parts that you can make some profit on, when/if this used Stromung deal goes through.

Sorry, but I don't exactly follow here. What is the overall goal of running this program? Is this the tool we use to re-flash the TCU after someone has broken the code (kernel) to change the programming.

Not that I can add any value to this. I am interested in possibly electronically changing the TCU for my 5EAT (along with a ClimberD HEX F? / Transgo / whatever mechanical mod for 08+).

Hello hello,

Legacy is home safely and running well. Total charge was one dollar less than their estimate - $2,364.00 vs $2,365.00. Cute.

 

Anyway, here are the pics of the door seals after installing the rubber tape insulation. The pics are hard to caption individually so here is the flow:

 

- driver door open- front fender interior visible

- driver door additional pics

- rear side door, driver side

- rear door stamp in bodyshell

- rear door hinge - btwn the drivers door and rear door

[the car is filthy inside. Thankyou for not mentioning...]

 

PICS HERE

https://picasaweb.google.com/thburkart/SubaruSeals?authuser=0&feat=directlink

Yea, I guess that would have to reduce the noise. I can now see why you have 10+ rolls on there. Must be soft enough the OEM door seal still makes full contact or the noise would have increased or water leaked.

I will not be doing that to mine at this time. Maybe, around the trunk. IMO my stock 08 is the quietest car I have owned. Much more so then the 05 Corolla I had. Then again I am accustomed to old trucks with drastic wind noise and other noise. I put 60 lbs of RAMMATT in the old 97 F150 when I upgraded the radio, that really helped. Still, it is hard to quiet down a brick flying through the air.

Whatever works.....

Hey thburkart...Could you take pictures of your door setup with the rubber tape? I think this also is the biggest issue across all Subaru models

In for pictures of it on the car.

I'm having trouble picturing where this was installed too. Inside the door or around the outside edge. I'm thinking this is around the outside edges like a secondary weather seal. Wonder if it binds the door from closing at all?

good to know, what gasket maker do you recommend, i work for honda and was going to use honda bond, good idea?

Not sure what Honda bond is exactly. I recommend a product by I believe Permatex called RIGHT STUFF. It sometimes comes in a caulk gun like tube. They may make smaller tubes. Get it at most auto parts stores.

At this point I wish someone had something more for the 08+ 5EAT then the engine. Of course I'm still very very early in the mod process for my Sube.

No matter what I've come to realize nothing will ever be perfect....which pisses me the HELL OFF!

Cholmes, I think thats a pretty good idea actually. The guy tried to use clay but it didnt work out apparently. He is not making it a mold, the method he does is to CAD it and then "print" it using a 3D printer. Hence the labor/time/material of just building a prototype.

 

He has told me it may be best to source out an ABS company and have them make it and he can try and make a mold but i have no idea where i can source one? I mean do i just google ABS company? lol. How do i know their quality of work and whatnot? Anyone know if there are any vendors here that can build one?

 

Or if someone can CAD it up and he can print it? It is just he has so much stuff to worry about right now and economy is tough so he is trying to get bigger projects for himself that he wont be making very much money off each piece and it is time consuming to build these.

 

-Scott

That would be very time consuming if each piece was 3D printed. Each piece takes hours sometimes. I could see doing 1-2 sets for R&D of a master mold. I am not sure the exact process but I know there is a step or software that takes it from CAD (probably more like Solidworks or some other 3d modeling tool) and sends it to a CAM type program. Anyway, no one cares about that detail.

Try searching for injection molding company's. I would think about any plastic would be fine in this application.

.

Interested and subscribed!

Waiting on final cost if this ever happens.

Ok 08+ guys, I need my car, sorry its been 3 weeks without it and important things have come up

ClimberD has been working hard but it is completely different then the 05

 

.blackgt. has contacted his dealership and a brand new 08 VB would be $827.16 Is there any interest for donations? I have not spoken with ClimberD about this and ultimately it would be his final decision. When ClimberD ships my VB back he will not have a 08 VB to work on

Aghhh....this sucks! Wish more good had came out of the 3 weeks he had it. Someone has to know more about this 08+ 5EAT and how to upgrade it

Why worry so much about rev-matching in day to day traffic? Just slow down and let the 5EAT downshift on it's own, or wait your downshift until the revs are low enough so it won't load the transmission when you shift.

This is what I do and have always done. So, what or how do I do this rev-matching downshift stuff on my 08?

I was laughing bacause its true(a young...er mechanic by trait) the old guys are horible to deal with but they know every trick in the book!

I know, I was only playing it.

This applies in may areas and professions, IT included.

The pros become jaded and mad at their clientelle as time goes by, but they love what they do, namely engines, etc. so they still put their heart into it.

Yep, agree 100%. For some reason IT and automobile have been my two career/hobby path's. Not a big future or pay in either. IT gets simpler and easier for every idiot to use and the pay went down. Automobiles get so complex, it takes a special tool to check your tire pressure...

Sorry for interruption....Thread is now back on track...

Need to sell something to get in on the GB. Then hold on to those until a kit comes out.....

:lol::lol:

Your laughing....I wasn't kidding....

Here's why I think that.

One of the best engine builders (not for imports) is a 60-70 old guy who seems to be mad at the world. Give him your block and $ and what you want it to do (HP for drag's or TQ for pulling) and you will get all that you paid for plus some no cost tricks he might throw in if he likes you.

Further to that. The two best (and completely independent) body shops around me, are run by father and sons teams. Not the cheapest but they can lay some paint....

There is exceptions. I am younger (30) and know a little about a lot of things. A family member knows about as much on motorcycles and amateur to semi-pro racing then many Pro riders that never touch there own bikes. He can dyno tune, rebuild dirt bike to Street bike and Rotax motors (but hates working on cars...to much trouble he says) Currently raking it in at a large Harley Dealer and he's 25.

Any good trans specialist with good reviews should be able to do this super easy. Just avoid low cost chains. Some of them lack accountability and integrity. That can be said about anything, but I think you'll be hard pressed to find an example where the most knowledgeable rebuilders work for aamco. Anything beyond a simple rebuild or flush may be out of their service list.

Maybe, it was luck and I mostly agree that the chain stores of any type can be this way including AAMCO but my father had a complete rebuild done there on a Ford E4OD (older sister of the 4R70W, younger and stronger then the AOD or AODE). At that time (5-7 years ago) his AAMCO shop encouraged him when he asked for a TRANSGO or B&M shift kit be installed. I think it had 3 levels, he went with the stage 2 setting, 1st is not worth doing and 3rd level is too firm.

A 302 in a regular cab longbed and a fresh tranny with shift kit made that truck fun to drive. The open rear differential was the problem....one wheel wonder at the site of gravel or wet grass.

Pick a shop with an old guy that is grumpy...but not the one that is set in his ways and hasn't touched a tranny made after 1982....