Prod

I was doing some 4-wheel drifts thorugh a slalom on r-comps; it's to be expected.

This picture better captures the body roll when you have r-comps and 100% stock suspension.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v232/Prod238/ownagewagon.jpg

Gramlight 57pros

They aren't available in black; they were custom painted.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v232/Prod238/autox/DSCN0470.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v232/Prod238/autox/wdcr_06_rk_sm_249.jpg

Pardon the body roll.

Gram Light 57 pros

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v232/Prod238/autox/DSCN0470.jpg

Ok, I'm thinking about getting an AP. I have a few questions:

1.) I understand that the dealer can only void your warranty if they can prove that the modifaction caused damage. I also understand that SOA is pretty tyrannical in it's liberal use of the "void" stamp. I would like to ensure that my powertrain warranty stays with me for 60k miles. I undertand that there is a limit to how many base flashes you can do, though this limit is over 100. My question is that if I get an AP, and I want to maintain complete stealth, can I just use a real-time stock setting to fool the dealership or should I reflash the base back to stock? I'm probably too worried about this, but I want to be sure no one can tell I did anything to my car. My mom paid for my car because I got full scholarship through college. She doesn't believe in certain things: (1) used cars and (2) modding cars.

2.) I ALWAYS get 93. Should I play it safe and use 91 anyways and just use 93 when I get to the track or use 93 all the time?

3.) Can the AP load a custom tune map?

4.) If I went EcuTek instead of AP, the only advantage would probably be a small amount of hp? My understanding with this is that I go to a shop that does it, they throw my car on a dyno, tune it for optimum performance and they call it a day. There's no way to flash back to stock, correct?