Gator GT

Anyone know of a good automotive machine shop to resurface the flywheel?

interesting hatchetman. I tilted the pass seat back and checked all connections and didn't see anything loose.

 

I did look into the LED status circuit board in the maplight console, but couldn't test any of them. Looking at the vaca pics for that part of my "trip", I did see that the signal goes through the LED before terminating at the ABS Control module.

 

With the range of temps we're experiencing here in CO now (-35*F to 53*F), it is NOT consistent in it's operation. Sometimes the "OFF" light won't illuminate, sometimes the "PASS AIR BAG" light won't illuminate...all regardless whether or not my wife is in the pass seat.

 

When it gets warmer out and I have more time, I'll take a look at the R150 Connector (harness that plugs into the LED status circuit board) on the CAR side, versus the board side, to see if the female connectors are stretched and loose.

Ditto. Been having the AIRBAG light on and off just as O/P noted. I haven't modified anything on the car for over a year now, and it just started about 1 month ago.

So, I'm still looking for a good place to get a vehicle inspection. No emissions testing in El Paso County (except for diesels).

Bump...where's a "good" place to get inspected in the Springs.

 

1. will notice that I have at least 1 cat

2. will respect my ride and know how to handle someone else's vehicle w respect.

 

thanks.

Thanks. I'm probably going to go with the AVO's. Now, increased caster or not?

 

Absolutely. Both of my bushings were the offset type, which increases caster.

Dave (@ RalliSpec) or Jodi will get back to you...they always have with me, for sales or just tech questions.

 

I swapped out the OEM specB LCA bushings I had for AVO versions. Not looking back, that's for sure.

^ Agreed. If you can't handle a few diodes and wires, and very clear instructions, you probably shouldn't be modding your car at all.

 

Well, I don't know about that...maybe some people aren't electrically "comfortable" but can turn a wrench blindfolded. Who knows?

 

But, if you meant that if he can't handle a few diodes and wires and very clear instructions, he probably shouldn't be ELECTRICALLY modding his car at all...well, I'd agree.

привет, соклубнику Решил наконец здесь зарегиться...я коробку всё таки купил и как я понимаю, кардан с любого 4АТ Легася мне подойдёт, так?

 

Well, this is what Babelfish had to say...

"regards, [soklubniku] did decide to finally here [zaregitsya]… I box all after all it did purchase and as I I do understand, Cardan joint from any of 4[AT] Of [legasya] to me [podoydet], so?"

 

....naw....not much help.

Great list...I may be moving to the CS area.

Very good whitetiger! I'm one of those who really didn't "need" the front helical LSD, but went for it anyway (couldn't pass up the deal I found at RalliSpec). NO REGRETS on the LSD!!!

 

I love the low maintenance and seamless characteristics of the helical unit. And having stepped up to 225 PS2's, it shines through that much more.

 

....now I just need to wait for this flippin' humidity to pass through so my stage2 can let me push it that much more.

 

Thanks again whitetiger!

+1000000

 

x1000000

 

well, maybe not x1000000, but definitely x100000

on my 07, yes

not too shabby sir....

 

...you sure no 30pk of cold ones afterwards was even hinted at?

... but I found a guy who will do spark plugs AND a compression check for $50 of labor

 

What, did you have to get all the prep work done...oh, like getting the battery and airbox and coil packs out of the way??

Anyone have vacation pics from the Forest....er, uh, from '03?

unclemat...that sti site is NUTZ!! wall to wall eye candy!

 

This is interesting...a "OEM" GrpN LCA bush. I've got the AVO ver2 LCA bush and I'm pleased with it. But, due to it's design of "slipping" urethane "hats", I'm curious as to when they'll wear out of spec or eat themselves for dinner. I've got Marine Grease slathered around and in them...but that just holds on to dirt and little rocks for dear life.

 

If it was a graphite urethane, well, I wouldn't add any lube....but straight up urethane needs SOMETHING.

 

Cool findings none the less.

I don't have a non-OEM clutch or LWFW, but I have upgraded the tranny crossmember bushings to urethane, the 6MT mount is hardened, Kartboy front and rear shift bushings, TiC linkage and pivot bushing upgrades, Kartboy 6MT (spec-B) SST and replaced the OEM pitch rod with a Function 7 aluminum/graphite bushing piece....my cabin is a flurry of noises from the tranny.

 

It was freaking scary when I had an Exedy stage 2 cerametallic clutch installed in terms of noise! The chatter, and whine from decceleration was very overwhelming...sounded like the tranny was breaking by just letting off the gas!

 

I replaced it with an OEM STI piece and am very happy with it. Had I a little more forethought, I would have gone Exedy Stage 1 organic and probably would have been just as happy, but with a stout clutch.

 

OT: clutch is up for grabs!

 

Point: In the never ending search for a more direct and positive shifting experience, upgrading bits and pieces will really connect you with what's going on in the gearbox by feel AND sound.

 

 

EDIT: I still hear the deccel gear noise (like bad meshing) in 2nd and 3rd between 2k & 4k RPMs. Part of me wants it checked out by a tech....part of me hears things similar to this post and say it is because of all the upgrades I've done.

anything out there concerning alternators?

 

Mine is whining.

upper rear diff bushings for the R160 and the R180 for LGT

 

bump AGAIN.

bump

 

upper rear diff bushings for the R160 and the R180 for LGT

upper rear diff bushings for the R160 and the R180 for LGT

can you swap a front LSD into a Spec b using the stock spec b tranny ?

 

Yeah. I already had RalliSpec do it for me. OEM 06 STI helical. Works AWESOME!

Yeah, front LSD upgrade is likely $1000 + labor.

 

No, leaving center diff "open", does not mean "35:65 and that's it". DCCD does NOT change torque split, it changes locking rate. Leaving it "open", means just that - it will become an open diff. Well, except 06+ STI tranyn where portion of the center diff is actually "mechanical", and it cannot be left completely open (and default split btw is 41:59).

 

Another alternative is replacing STI DCCD center diff with a viscous one, or clutch type one (like Cusco, I understand). Replacing center diff is much simpler than front diff, does not require cracking the transmission open.

 

Btw, how did you like the JDM 6MT, especially now compared to the tall geared SpecB 6MT? Also, was it 3.9 FD? (like SpecB)

 

According to my research all USDM STI trannys have wacko gearing:

 

04-06 STI: short 1-4 (like JDM), medium 5-6 - the 4/5 gap is considerable and annoying according to pre-07 STI owners

 

07+ STI: tall 1-4 gears (like SpecB), medium 5-6 (same as 04-06), now the 4/5 gap is short (1k rpm dif) and some end up skipping 5th gear when shifting

 

Looks like SpecB gearing is just right for a highway cruiser and with evenly spaced gears. If only SOA did not cheap out and put a front LSD there

 

 

First, I never got to try the JDM 6MT as I had to kill the project...it was getting out of control money and time wise. Yes, it is a 3.9 as I had an open R160 3.9 geared diff to take the R&P out of to put in a WRX R160 LSD for the swap. I still have the R160 3.9 R&P (actually I have the whole diff pumpkin)...LOW mileage too (22k miles). Out of a 2000 BE 'L' 5MT.

 

2nd, across the board, all 1st gears in 6MT's are, for the most part, the same, 3.636; regardless of year or market.

 

3rd, how are the 1-4 gears on the 04-06 6MT's short, and the 1-4 gears on the 07+ STI (Spec B too) tall? They are relatively the same ratios....just better spaced on the 07+ STI (spec B).

 

You are correct....nearly no one has liked the gearing of the USDM STI from 04-06 above 4th gear. I'm sure there are a few kids out there that do though.

 

And yes, it'll be 35:65 and that's it. That statement did not mean it'll be a VLSD or that a working DCCD changes torque split, it means that it splits the torque 35:65 and is an open diff when a controller is not functional or hooked up.

 

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...highlight=dccd

 

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...highlight=dccd

 

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1005217

 

And, as for the center diff, you do need to open the tranny, as the tail section needs to come off to gain access to the center diff. Granted, that is next to the easiest thing to do to the 6MT (replacing the rear oil seal is probably easier ), you still need to break the seal and crack the case at that location.

Unclemat, you are correct, the gearing in the JDM boxes are shorter when it comes to the 5th and 6th gears.

 

There is an added cost of around $2000-$2700 to add an LSD to the SpecB tranny.

 

You could just add the STI tranny to the LGT and be done with it...not need a controller. It'll just default to 35/65 and thats it. It'll be like having a non-STI 6MT in there anyway.

 

Talk to Stephen Clark at Innovative Automotive Performance in Arizona. I purchased a JDM Ver8 STi motor (7k miles) and a JDM Ver7 6MT (22k miles) from him a couple years back. When I dealt with him, his products were the some of the best import quality. Very clean and low mileage. He's a VERY patient man when it come to asking him questions.