Texan

Mostly clean, debadged, window tint in the next week or so.

 

http://i.imgur.com/6TUJ47b.jpg

Incredibly frustrating.. no one here is promoting not wearing a seat belt. It's for the times when you're sitting in your car and not driving, or backing it down the drivewar for a second, etc... Let's be constructive and not throw unwarranted self righteous comments out there.

 

On to the real issue.. I tried the seat belt clicky thing it worked for 2 days then blam right back on. I tried the taking apart the buckle, and I too could not get the seat belt to click in until I forced it, which of course undid the slider.

 

I will do the under the seat disconnect and report back if I have any issue.. Now we've got to find a good system to disable that passenger side!

 

Just be careful not to unplug the connector for the airbag!

Took my car to the dealer last week for the seat problem. The driver's seat pops and squeaks. The dealer special ordered a part (they say). Car was at the dealer all day and they called "We fixed it!". I had to pick up the car a little later after the service department was closed. It is exactly the same. I am not even sure they did anything at all. I may tear the seat apart myself and fix it. I did that with a BMW I had and fixed it myself.

My new ones, with 235/45/18 General UHP's.

 

Nice. I never see red ones here in the Sacramento area.

drag dr-31s 18x8 +48 on bfg gforce super sport a/s 225/40/18

 

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r254/ggar015/fa8e47be.jpg

 

That's a good look. I like it.

WTF? I thought I was being picky with my seat. The driver's seatback creaks and pops when I go 'round corners and my weight shifts. Can't exactly hear it, but I feel it behind my shoulders. I am 6'0', 175. I am not crushing the seat I don't think. I bought the car one month ago (2009 SE with 20K miles). Guess I am going to the dealer, since it is CPO, and the squeaky rear brakes they "fixed" are squeaking again after 600 miles.

 

Here we go.

I finally got this done today, but with what another person here did. Use a female/male disconnector after I cut the wire off. Seemed like the easiet way and the most time saving. MUCH better without DRLs.

 

 

Well, duh. I shoulda done that, or throw in a .99 Radio Shack rocker switch. Oh, well. I'll do that on my next Subie (Outback) for my wife. But, she loves DRLs.

I have an 09 Legacy SE. I pulled down the under dash cover, and up against the firewall left of the steering column is a little black box (among many) with a blue label with the words "Cont Module DRL". Pull down the white connector. In that tangle of wires, look for the blue wire with a black stripe. That is the one. Other people are right; it is a pain to pull out. The wire is held in place with a locking tab, and this is the pain. You'll need a very small flathead screwdriver to push down the locking tab. You will have to mess around with it to get it out, and you can try pushing the wire into the socket a little to release some pressure on the locking tab. I ended up using a pair of small needlenose to hold the wire, while I pushed the tab down with the tiny screwdriver. I have found that swearing a lot helps, too.

 

I am Irish, so my temper is about .02 seconds longer than an Italian's. I was this close to just cutting the wire, but it came out after a few minutes of stubbornness. Wrap the end in tape, and put your dash back together.

For me, I did the 20 click in 30 second method. I am a little apprehensive about unplugging stuff without knowing 100% that it will not affect airbag or other safety equipment operation. I may tear out the dash one day and annihilate the little speaker. For now, the click method works, and it is Subaru 'approved'.