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sumfoo1

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Posts posted by sumfoo1

  1. E85 works because it has a higher octane rating then regular 91 or 93 unleaded gas. Meaning that it resists pre-detonation (knock) better then pump gas. The need for more E85 then gas is only because E85 has a different Stoich then gasoline. Gas being 14.7 parts air to 1 part fuel, and E85 being 9.7 to 1.

     

     

     

    Yes you're exactly right... the by-product is more fuel is more fluid phase changing to liquid. It basically works as an octane boost & water/meth injection.

     

    I mean with meth injection do you shoot 30% more fluid in??? nope....

  2. Trying to find aftermarket DP with stock everything else, maybe upgraded Y. Anyone can help?

     

    [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JpDs7HSpbp4&list=UUezQEZza0xzZezlWUHtkZZQ&index=2&feature=plcp]2005 Legacy GT with Race Ready Exhaust Cutout - YouTube[/ame]

     

    TRS cobra has this video with stock catback and with an exhaust cut-out. Half the vid is with the cutout open, half is with it closed.

     

    on a catless downpipe

     

    If that's not good enough i'll do mine fore you sometime this week although i don't know how well an iphone does with sound.

  3. ok... my GMS inlet trick..

     

    SHOVE inlet through with turbo off, adjust turbo and TIP to get them aligned...

     

    clamp them down .... while turbo is still off... wrestle with bypass valve connection

     

    Wrestle turbo onto up pipe... bolt down then proceed with misc lines...

     

    it was a bitch but i felt it was nearly impossible any other way...

     

    it seems like it was made for a jdm car with no tgvs or something.

     

    not gonna lie after wrestling with the inlet pipe i was about to swear off gimmick but their copper gaskets work damned well.

  4. anyone have any tips with a friggin gimmick turbo inlet ??? WILL NOT BUY AGAIN (couldn't afford anything else though since it wasn't really by choice that i'm replacing it... the turbo sucked in a piece of plastic from it.

     

     

    I swear i can either get the inlet on or get the oil drain lined up, if i replaced the oil line with one ~2" longer would the S it makes restrict oil flow too mucht?

  5. well the UP i got also had stripped studs so i was going to have to rig up something on that end too which i didn't really want to do.

     

     

    Speaking of which if anyone wants an up pipe i spent hours removing the studs from (could be bolted or tack-weld some bolts to the bottom of it) for cheap lemme know.

    i think i got $50 and 1 hr labor in it.

  6. Are there any less invasive options for getting a larger oil filter?

     

    In other news - more feedback:

    You mention gutting the up-pipe cat.... My reading (and experience) lead me to the conclusion that this is a serious operation. The up-pipe cat isn't a ceramic model and doesn't smash and drop out easily like other ones... I spent a couple of hours on mine before giving up and buying an aftermarket piece.

     

    I had an aftermarket UP that i got off nasioc that i was going to use, but i like the heat shields on the stocker... so i told myself i'd spend some time tying to poke the cat out of the up... and it took about 2 hours. And that was only using my cordless drill and a dremel.

     

    http://webpages.charter.net/baraboo_halls/auto/wrx/up/uppipe_fix.html

     

    just make sure to do the wire wheel part because there was lots of metal debris stuck on the edge that had to be polished off to make sure it didn't go through the turbine.

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