protivakid

If you read the thread I detail how I can share them.

I too hope he passes the baton instead of taking the site to the grave. Sad when it stopped being updated

Did you PM me already?

Did you already send me a PM?

Send me a PM with a google drive link

Uploading now. Please take a backup of the files to your local PC so if I delete to conserve space in the future you don't lose the updates.

If you check the link above and go through the revisions of the TSB's they detail what each fixes. I haven't seen a consolidated list though.

This site used to link them. For example I searched for my '16 WRX https://www.nhtsa.gov/vehicle/2016/SUBARU/WRX/4%252520DR/AWD#manufacturerCommunications The problem is after Subaru started locking down their TSB's to only tech net subscribers what seems like Summer 2018 the above link is no longer updated as frequently. Still worth a check.

If you can't PM, share a google drive link and the exact firmware you need

I assume you hooked it up to the radio directly? I used a cheap battery charger when doing mine but yes the update supposedly checks for high / low voltage and backs out if there is an issue. Lucky it didn't brick your unit.

Like I said in my post, PM me with a google drive link

What's the number on the face of your radio? And does it match any in the PDF?

Take a look at the PDF page I shared. If a radio model# on that page matches the model# on the face of your radio you could try the update. No promises it will work and won't render the unit unusable so weight the risks.

The instructions say if the voltage rises above 14.5V the update will abort. My original idea was to keep the car on but after reading that I decided against it. You got very lucky that either that is untrue or you had enough load on your alternator that it didn't rise. Had it aborted you may be riding around with a bricked HU. Either way glad it worked. Glad it worked out, I read everything 2-3 times and really crossed my T's and dotted my I's. I didn't want to be buying a new HU if the update failed.

Yes I was able to get the full service manual. There is a checkbox on the left for service manuals the same way you search for TSB's. Check that, fill out the Model & Year, and a PDF should come up. They are a good size.

I obtained them right from the official link in the STIS TSB document. It required me to login with my 3-day pass.

So the forum limits PDF attachments to 1.22MB but I was able to find the latest revision of 15-205-16R dated January 30th 2019 and attach the first two pages outlining the fixes as well as the software versions here. I tried having the dealer flash it but they seemed completely incompetent. First telling my they couldn't find a TSB for my car, then when I shared the specific number they said they found it but when I checked they had downloaded an old version from August 2018 that didn't fix my SiriusXM issue and sent me on my way. Thinking that returning to them would be another circus I started digging online and found the documents / updates! You all can access this too from the Subaru Technical Information System website which looks like it's run by SOA: https://techinfo.subaru.com/stis/#/ For $35 they allow users 3-day access to all of their technical documents! This includes TSB's, Head Unit Updates, even the dealer Service Repair Manual! I registered and spent the weekend downloading as many PDF's & Updates as I could for my Subaru. In the TSB is a link to the download page for the software updates. I'm pretty good with computers so feeling I could probably do a better job than the average mechanic I dug around myself (thinking about it, shouldn’t there be at least one computer tech at dealers to work jobs like these and not the guys doing the wrenching?). The update was successful and my SiriusXM issue was fixed. Part 1 takes 15 minutes to download and 2 minutes after reboot, Part 2 takes 10 minutes to download and 5 minutes after reboot. You need a 2GB min - 4GB Max flash drive which I had to buy on eBay since I had nothing that small. They recommend a battery maintainer so that the voltage doesn't drop while updating. I used my generic one on the 12V 2A trickle charge setting which maintained 12.3V through the update. You can't just leave the car running as the TSB says the update will abort if the voltage rises above 14.5V which my alternator would spike at 14.7V. You don't want a bricked HU. If you chizzlers are too cheap to pay $35 for the software directly from SOA and this forum allows I did download all of the Jan 30 '19 files for each year / model. I will only respond to a request in a PM with you specifying the EXACT software version you need from the linked PDF (ex OU9312) as well as a link to a shared folder on YOUR google drive so that I can upload. PLEASE ALSO MAKE SURE PERMISSIONS ALLOW GUESTS TO UPLOAD. If you are unaware how to do this you probably shouldn't be flashing the updates in the first place . Once you get the file take a backup to your local machine so that if I clear older files to free up space you don't lose the updates. I make no promises that these updates will work and take no responsibility if you brick your HU. Mon-Thurs I am at my computer 9-6pm. If you msg me outside of that expect a delayed response. 15-205-16R_013019Pg1-2.pdf

I know the firmwares haven't been shared, but does anyone have a link to the updated TSB pdf?

Looks like this will help me check a map - For injector o-rings I read you spray a little carb cleaner around where the injector meets the head while the engine is running. If the idle changes you know there is a leak. This accurate? This test also looks like it will tell me if the injector is firing Last I ordered a cheap OBD2 to USB cable so hopefully with my laptop and some software I can grab some good live data. My cheap handheld scanner only gives a few things.

Thermostat seems to be working properly. Temp is fine and coolant seems to be flowing great when it opens up. Filter has been replaced. Will crawl under and check for exhaust leaks but not hopefull. Will a bad injector show signs of running lean on the plug? I've seen people do a test by holding a screwdriver to it and listening for when it fires. Any way to check a MAP?

I got the car in 2010 w/ 120K on it. The code started in Feb 2014 when I had ~ 185K on it. With this I know the sensor that came with it was at least good for 60+ thousand miles. And it would also seem strange for the new sensor to be bad right out of the box producing the same symptoms as the old. The new sensor was direct fit plug wise just like the one I removed. For an intake leak my 01 legacy only has a MAP no MAF so unless I am mistaken my only point of leaks would be from the air filter assembly onwards where vacuum / small air hoses start to connect. Everything prior the filter is plastic ducting only. Taking off the manifold seems like a pita. Any easier way to check the gasket? I'll try to check out the TB one as well. If by odd chance it was a bad cat, is there a good way to tell? I live in the salt belt so things get pretty bad under there but I don't hear any loud exhaust leaks.

The front sensor was a BOCH that was on there for YEARS without a problem. I put in a new BOCH and still have the same problem. Given the old sensor ran so well for so long without any CEL and after the new one the car is doing the same it sounds like I have an issue someplace else. I have heard a few mention using a defouler but I would really like to fix the issue if at all possible and not just mask it. The price of a cat is steep but if that's really my issue I can eat it. I just dont want to throw in a new cat to have the same code pop up.

I am chasing this down in an 01 legacy w/ the 2.5. As part of general maintenance and trying to solve this I have changed the following since the code started: -Alternator -Battery -Upstream O2 -Downstream O2 -Spark Plugs -PCV -Fuel Filter -Air filter -Radiator Coolant -Regular Full Synth Oil Changes -Ran Seafoam through Oil & Gas -Timing belt job w/ water pump -Headgasket job Problem started a year ago before doing any of the above and if I clear the code it will come back in 1000 - 3000 miles. Watched this video where a guy talks about this code on a 3.0 I tried logging some O2 data but the numbers seem to be different than the values in the video. I am not sure what's left to check and suspect I may actually just have a bad cat. I guess I could pull the new plugs I threw in during the fall and see if there are signs of running too lean.

What all did you buy to jack it up like that?

Whats up w/ the 2 radios?