TbirdMan

850's are about as big as you can go with sidefeed, but I've found them to be troublesome on mine- inconsistent fueling and poor idle so converting to top feed and 1050x's. Those seem to be the goto and would leave plenty of headroom for e85.

as for the pump, I have a dw65c and have had no problems with it, drop in install.

 

 

I would rather avoid having to convert to top feed if possible, and I am not really looking to run e85. I am not trying to max out this setup really, just trying to make sure it can make a safe power level without leaning out.

So my brother was driving my car and it broke down (burned piston). He called for a tow and told the dispatcher it was an AWD car. He ended up leaving the car for the tow driver to pick up as the car wasn't running and it was a very hot day. The car showed up at the shop being towed two wheels down, the shop was smart enough to get pictures to prove this. My question is, how screwed is the trans, and what should I look out for symptom wise? I plan to go after the tow company for repairs, but don't know what that will be until the engine is fixed.

Hey guys, my GT burned a piston recently and I am having a new shortblock put in. I suspect the cause may have been a clogged/stuck injector from sitting for quite a while thanks to COVID.

 

 

When I initially had it tuned after I bought it with mods and no tune, the tuner said i needed bigger injectors and fuel pump but I couldn't afford it at the time so he did what he could to make a "safe" tune. it ran fine on that tune for several years so I doubt that was the cause of the burned piston but correct me if I am wrong in that assumption.

 

 

 

Since the engine is out and it is in the shop, I wanted to go ahead and get the fuel system taken care of. What i want to know is if these injectors:

 

 

https://www.fiveomotorsport.com/750cc-jecs-side-feed-fuel-injectors/

 

 

would be a good match for these mods:

 

 

Cobb CAI

Cobb 3 port BCS

Cobb SS Downpipe

 

Perrin turbo inlet

AVO TMIC

TR billet TD05-18G

 

 

For fuel pump, I was looking at a Walbro 255l/h, that should be ok, right?

 

 

I plan to get it tuned afterward, anyone know a good tuner in the Charlotte, NC area?

Ok, another update on this project. I have a CAN to USB converter. If I have time this weekend I will see if I can tap into the CAN lines at the NAV unit and try reading it with RR.

Ok, so it has been a while, but I have made progress. I switched to the original heatsink and added a 70mm low profile fan to it to make sure it stays cool. I may need to make some room in the mounting area for it, but we shall see. I have the Waveshare 7" touch screen and the UP2 mounted in the housing, I was originally going to leave the chopped up stock PCB with the connector in place and just solder to the pins I needed, but PCB's are so cheap and easy to design these days that it just made sense to roll my own. This will give me a place to mount my Meanwell 12V-5V 6A DC-DC converter and some level shifting circuitry for the IO as well as a convenient place to put an FFC connector for the front buttons (via a longer cable).

Got my new screen, it works great so far. I am gonna look into getting my 3d printer working again to make some brackets to fit it into the housing securely.

 

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What made you decide to change what main board you were going to use?

 

Big jump from the odroid to the UP. But I guess it makes sense if you had it laying around.

A couple things. Like you said, I had it on hand(To be fair, I have ALOT of SBCs on hand, I have a bit of an addiction.) , and I also have some experience programming in visual basic, so the option of windows 10 is interesting to me. The odroid is nice, and I may still go that way if there is a problem with the UP. it also has more io options including USB 3, M.2 for wireless, and SATA III. Also, it is about the most powerful SBC you can fit in there. Like I said, it is still fairly early in the project, so these things can change.

 

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Had to order a different screen that should fit a bit better. The ODROID one has no Windows drivers for the touch control. I ordered a Waveshare 7" HDMI 1024x600 5pt capacitive touch screen, basically the same thing as the ODROID one except it claims to support Windows 10 and it is slightly narrower so i will have an easier time fitting it between the AC ducts.

Did some work to fit the UP Squared. The heatsink and standoffs come from the metal chassis kit for it. It looks like it will just fit in the stock housing after I trimmed the bracket and circuit board that holds the RCA and 4 pin tubular connectors. If I need more cooling I may need to squeeze a fan in there somewhere.

 

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Well, I am looking into different options for the main computer. The one I am leaning toward is the UP Squared. I am mostly leaning that way because I have one (the top of the line $319 dollar unit) that I am literally doing nothing with. It runs an Intel Pentium N4200 quad core x86 CPU, 8GB RAM, 128GB eMMC and I have a 128GB mSATA drive for it. For OS, I can run anything from Windows 10 to Ubuntu to Android or even my own custom Linux build. It has a mPCIe/mSATA and m.2 2230 expansion as well as SATA III, USB 3.0 a 40 pin GPIO 2 UARTs. I should be able to use a m.2 4g cell modem to get GPS/4G, the GPIO to reintegrate the front buttons and maybe some other goodies, and the UART to read CANbus with a protocol converter. The hard part of that is gonna be sorting out the CANbus data Has anyone ever stumbled across Subaru CAN id's for our cars? I have found ones for "subaru diesels" but I doube they will be the same.

Nice, I was thinking about doing something similar at some point. Figured I would start with a nexus 7 and get that's setup with all the car related additions and then build the next version similar to what you've started with "on the bench".

 

So your phone will be used for internet connectivity, GPS, phone etc I assume? Which will need to be plugged in via USB correct?

Initially, but I have something in mind that might let me forgo that.

 

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Interesting.

 

Are you planning to run BtSsm on this "headunit"?

Likely, though for gauges I would like to pull data directly from the CANbus.

 

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So I got the head unit gutted and started fitting up the screen. It looks like it will fit wit room to spare. I had to cut one side of the bezel out to clear the connectors and circuit board. I plan to reuse the stock connectors on the back for power, accessory, backup (I plan to add a backup camera) , park, ignition, and i may even be able to tap into the CANbus and speed signals.

 

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So I have wanted to do this project for a while and finally got my hands on a spare navi screen to chop up for it. I plan to use an ODROID C2 and Vu7+ to replace the origional screen and hopefully retain the functionality of the physical buttons using either the GPIO on the C2 or a microcontroller to act as a USB HIM. The screen is the right size, however the placment of the HDMI and micro usb power could possibly make it tight to the ac duct. Let me know what you think and bug me to keep on this project so it doesn't die like so many of my other projects have.

 

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Zues, you might want to add a mention that 05 LGT brakes (12.3" front and 11.3" ventilated rear) will work on our cars with 17" wheels.

 

It hasent been actually DONE, but my research indicates it should work.

I might consider a brace, maybe ill make my own.

I wouldn't say I changed my mind, I still think the stock MC would work fine, just that the WRX one is bigger bore. I suppose it would shorten the pedal travel some since you are increasing the volume of fluid you move, but it would also reduce the mechanical advantage since the multiplication of force of a hydraulic system is a function of the difference in diameter of the pistons.

 

As for the caliper brackets, if I can get them for the right price I think it would be worth it, $40 vs $20 or so, and all I would have to do is clean them up and paint them. again, all depends on if they will sell the brackets separate and for a good price.

one tip, it looks to me like the later impreza calipers (as on my 04WRX ones) have the brake line notch in the right place for our cars and it should bolt to the 3rd gen legacy bracket (aka "H6"). I think I am gonna stop by a local JY and see if he will give me a deal on a set of brackets.

Upon researching, the WRX does have a slightly bigger bore MC then the legacy, however, the 3rd gen is the same.

I wouldn't recommend a different MC, from what I can tell, at least for the 2nd gen GT, the calipers piston sizes are pretty much all the same as the WRX and 3rd gen legacy (all 3rd gen leggies have the same upgraded rear brakes, nothing special about the H6)

 

when a company designs the MC they match it to the calipers, since these are all OEM calipers, and all pretty much the same, the OEM MC's should be about the same, the big differences are in the rotor diameters.

Something to add, the 4EAT in the legacy GT has a 4.44ratio.

Does the Di-Noc behave similarly to this? I am considering vinyl for some accents. (inside hood scoop, grill opening, and interior pieces)

"Tastes like crazy alcohol rainbow pig." - Musclesglasses

 

from:

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eah23WvLYsQ]YouTube - Chili Four Loko - Epic Meal Time[/ame]

"Oh, but you can't expect to wield supreme executive power just because some watery tart threw a sword at you" -Dennis

I live in boone, but my 99 GT LTD is from FL. couldn't find a rust free one here.