Dispatch20
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Posts posted by Dispatch20
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Not a recent hicksta story but related:
I had bought Hicksta's car from him back in 2014 or so. I sold it a year later to a teenage girl. Well, I saw it pop back up on Facebook marketplace 5 years and 40k miles later with a blown engine. Bought it for $1500. Kind of sad really.
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I recently replaced the starters on my two 4th gen 3.0Rs. The 3.0R starters have a different part #s than the LGT, so I attached the starter part list. I also was lucky enough to find qty 2 of the correct starter for like $20 ea shipped on Ebay. Pics attached.http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5c169e10c014f/starters.pdf
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I believe it applies to all Legacies with Nav back to 06. The 06 Spec B had it. Here's the nav hacking stuff from way back then:I'm wondering if this is specific to the 08-09 legacysI'm surprised an 06 Outback factory Nav didn't.
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If you choose to do it that way, then yes. You would need to buy the harness that would have ran to your mirror and you'll cut it up and connect your 5v regulator to it. This is an alternate way that isn't shown in the pics from then 1st few posts. I think Vern posted some pics of it later on.Thread resurrection. I have a wagon without dimming mirror. It appears that I have just the male plug but not the wiring harness. I think I'd have to buy the harness just to get the female connector to put the voltage regulator wires into. Is my understanding correct?I'm sure you could buy just the connector and contacts somewhere out there for cheap but the search would take some time.
You could also probably splice or vampire tap into the harness that is in every vehicle near the dome light.
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My wagon was built may 2004. I think it was Nov 2016 that the dealer replaced everything, it was like a 9 hour job.
Subaru of America and Subaru Of Canada often take different stances on what they decide to cover on vehicles that are out of warranty. SoA is generally more generous (or more afraid of liability).
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A local technician attending a Subaru training on the Ascent today posted some pics of the Ascent turbo.
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I was cutting off my front swaybar endlinks with an angle grinder...and I accidentally cut half-way through the inner tie rod.
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Interesting, but per CovertRussin's post that lead me to order these in the first place, didn't the pic always show a steel arm but it arrive as aluminum? Or did RockAuto switch to a diffrent OEM for their house brand arms and thus they are now steel?
Good question. I recall the picture for the Ultrapowers having aluminum arms last time. I ordered a set back then and I still have them in a box. In the new pics the bushing has voids like the stock bushings, too. If I wasn't lazy, I'd call up RockAuto and ask for clarification.
So wait the ultra power arms that are steel in the picture are actually aluminum?How do I keep doing this the hard way. Got ball joints first,as I knew I needed them right away, then saw I need bushings so just got them delivered. Now it's seems I could get aluminum arms, with everything installed for cheaper then all the parts I need and have bought.
I don't mind doing the work to rebuild my current arms but kind of like the idea of the aluminum, even though it has little effect. Just nice to add it to the mod list.
Oddly, with everyone using these, what's happening to all the stock worn out/older aluminum arms no one wants to rebuild? I would be ok with rebuilding a pair. There is a few JDM shops around but their asking price for used and needing a rebuild arms is $160/pair which makes no sense. Maybe I'll see if they will go dumb cheap if I show I can get them much cheaper fully built ready to go.
I think most people just give away the old steel arms to scrap collectors. Shipping them is a little expensive considering how cheap replacements are.
I wouldn't be too upset about using a steel arm vs aluminum. I've seen an ultrapower aluminum arm get bent due to a pothole. It's entirely likely they are lower quality and structurally weaker than the Spec B aluminum arms they attempt to copy.
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The pics now for the Ultrapower show a steel arm now. The part number is the same as the aluminum one i bought months ago. Hmm. Either way it seems like a good deal.I finally put on my Aluminum "ULTRA-POWER" arms on last week. Have to say the solid rubber bushing has a MUCH better feel than the OEM SpecB bushings with the voids in them. Turn in feels quicker, and things take less time to "settle" into a turn.After installation toe was -0.51* out on both sides, so it looks like these arms are just SLIGHTLY longer than the stock ones.
Also the Ultra-power arms are back down to $39 each, less than the cost of a ball joint or replacement bushing.
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I am not associated with this seller, but I think his product is good. Here is part of my email correspondence from when I bought his 12 pin Gentex mirror cable. $50 seems like a lot but it saved me a bunch of time.Dispatch20I just picked up a 2011 Legacy homelink mirror with the display (Gentex)
Question for you:Where did you get the harness with the 12 pin connector for video and wire it in? I've been looking around this evening but not finding much to go on.
Thanks
"Our harnesses for the GHSHL4 mirrors include the mirror-to-vehicle jumper harness (12 pin to 3 pin), plus an RCA cable and camera power and ground wires.* The RCA cable & power/ground wires are all part of the harness and are long enough to reach the bottom of the dash (approx. 9 feet long).* That way, once you install your camera you'll just bring the camera video cable & power/ground wires to the under-dash area of your vehicle and then plug the camera's video cable into the RCA female cable on the mirror harness & splice the camera power & ground wires to the power & ground wires on the mirror harness.* That way you are not tapping into any of the vehicle's wiring at all, and all of your connections are inside of your vehicle away from dirt & moisture.
Picture of the kit is attached.
Cost of the adapter harness & installation hardware is $59. If you do not need the wire cover shown in the picture, take $10 off the total (if you do happen to need the wire cover, check your mirror's mounting bracket as the GHSHL4 mirrors came with two styles, one which is a regular wedge mount and the other with an extended mount that is still a wedge mount, but there's provisions to mount a connector on the mount.* If yours is the regular one, the wire cover will work; if yours has the extended mount, then the cover will not work - sample pix of mirrors with the standard mount and extended mount are attached).* Prices include shipping & insurance.
Thank you & have a blessed day!
Best Regards,
Bob Prim
Bob's Automotive Mirrors & More LLC
7697 Forest Lawn Road
Three Oaks, MI 49128-9558
219-575-9220
Philippians 4:13
http://stores.ebay.com/bobsautomotiverearviewmirrors
http://www.facebook.com/bobsmirrors
twitter.com/Bobs_Mirrors"
I also was able to find the connector part # for the 12 pin connector, in case you wanted to make your own.
TE part #: 1318774-2 (and then file down a couple plastic fins and it will plug right in). Of course, you'll also need crimp contacts, crimper, wire, etc. The gentex 12 pin pinout is out there on the web somewhere.
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It's just as safe. You'll be relying on the fuse for whatever circuit powers the mirror (dome light circuit, perhaps). It may larger than ideal for the camera, but close enough.Will it be more unsafe using this method since I am not putting in a dedicated fuse for the dash camera? Or does it draw so little power its ok? -
I never found that particular wire. It was easy enough to route the reverse signal from the tail light since I had to route the video feed anyways. It just wasn't worth the effort to dig around in there.So the reverse wire is in the passenger side kick panel I assume a tester was used to check whatever had 12v to it when in reverse? -
Unless you just like wasting time and money, do not "fix" a problem you haven't diagnosed. Pulling the code is the only way to start. With a little savvy eBaying, you can get a dirt cheap price on a Launch CRP123, or hook up with a local automotive Facebook group or forum to find someone who'll let you use their scanner.
P.S. a good scanner is an investment you'll never regret.
Fortunately, 95% of the cases for the Legacy SRS dash light can be diagnosed very easily. If the overhead/map light "airbag on/off" lights don't illuminate normally (i.e. half-dim or only half of the lights on), then it's 100% certain the issue is the solder joints in the map light, which requires 15 minutes and $0 to repair. Nearly every Legacy made from 05-09 will see this failure at some point after 7+ years and 100k+ miles.
But if those lights always act correctly and display at the right brightness, then I agree that they will need to read the code to properly diagnose it. But for those 95% of cases where it's easy to diagnose, I think it would be a waste of time and money to bother investing in or tracking down an SRS code scanner.
However, some recent examples of the SRS throwing a fault that required a code scanner are gimpydingo's example above, and another person who had messed up something with the steering wheel clock spring when they were swapping the steering wheel.
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2010 w/ 121k for $8500. https://syracuse.craigslist.org/ctd/6169740864.html
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Pasting my reply from the other thread. I think what Max is referring to may be different than what you are experiencing.
Paste:
When I bought my 09 Outback (H6), I had a vibration during 1st/2nd gear acceleration. I noticed the vehicle had two front aftermarket axles.
Removing those axles was nearly impossible. I had to use two pry bars, and enough force to chip some of the trannys aluminum castings (including "sundial") adjustments. It took me at least an hour to remove them, along with a lot of swearing. I must have been applying 100+lbs of removal force but the axle cup is hard to pry on. Somebody must have pounded them in with a sledge 15k miles ago. Normal axles slide in and out easily other than the solid shove (via single whack with mallet on striaghtened axle; like Max described above) to overcome the circlip force. Normal axles pry out very easily with a small bar and small force. The only thing holding the axle in should be a circlip spring.
I put in 2 OE axles from a salvage yard, and my vibration went away.
Also, the dust shields usually need to be swapped from your OE axle to aftermarket axles. They won't cause an immediate leak if you don't have them, but they keep the seal area clean.
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I believe all Prodrive wheels in the US are imported from Japan. After seeing your set and missing the ones from my old LGT, I went and bought a set on Yahoo Japan auction. They didn't have a single +47 offset 5x100 18x7.5, but there was a lot of +48 offset.
Anyways, you've got the rare +47 that fit Brembos. Everyone else needs 1mm spacer.
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Shawn, I absolutely love those gc-0101e wheels on your car. Beautiful!
How did you come across them? Buy them used somewhere? You definitely keeping them for a while?
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I get this light every winter... but I just learned when the light is on ALL airbags are disabled. Get this fixed ASAP! If you cannot solder then get a replacement overhead console.
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Can you post your source for that info? I've never seen anything definitive but I definitely want to know!
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The 2012 DIP is listed on car gurus and has more pictures. It has a yellow writing on one the taillights which probably means it was a replacement part from a junkyard.
I interpreted that yellow as just a reflection off the tail light rather than wax crayon. In any case, despite the scam-looking ad, it's definitely a legit sale. Putting some stalker skills to work, the username on Cargurus is an actual person with a LinkedIn account. They work in Syracuse for the Air Force stationed at Syracuse Hancock airport. The pics were actually taken at the airport with aircraft in the background. Radio station is set to a Syracuse station (107.9).
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Nice "aluminum alloy" steelies
Not sure why the owner pasted some generic marketing ad material for his Craiglist ad. And he didn't say whether the snow tires/wheels in the pictures were included along with the OE 18" wheels.
It's a Syracuse car all its life, and the salt here is pretty bad. The car was undercoated when new, so maybe that would help?
Here's the Carfax maintenance records just in case it helps anybody. I sure hope they were changing their own oil occasionally or taking it to a place that doesn't register the service with Carfax.
11/03/2016
76,851 mi
- Maintenance inspection completed
- A/C and heating temperature control checked
- Body electrical system checked
- Engine checked
- Engine/powertrain computer/module checked
- Oil and filter changed
04/15/2016
- Maintenance inspection completed
- Brakes checked
- Differential serviced
- Light bulb(s) replaced
- Oil and filter changed
- Emissions or safety inspection performed
04/14/2016
69,233 mi
New York Inspection Station
- Passed safety inspection
- Passed emissions inspection
- View what was inspected
11/30/2015
65,214 mi
- Maintenance inspection completed
- Brake rotor(s) resurfaced
- Brakes checked
- Oil and filter changed
- Rear brake pads replaced
05/26/2015
58,110 mi
- Maintenance inspection completed
- Engine checked
- Engine/powertrain computer/module checked
04/02/2015
56,432 mi
- Maintenance inspection completed
- Recommended maintenance performed
- Brake rotor(s) resurfaced
- Brakes checked
- Four wheel alignment performed
- Front brake pads replaced
- Light bulb(s) replaced
- Steering/suspension checked
- Emissions or safety inspection performed
04/02/2015
New York Inspection Station
- Passed safety inspection
- Passed emissions inspection
- View what was inspected
10/16/2014
New York
- Registration issued or renewed
- Titled or registered as
- personal vehicle
- Passed safety inspection
09/30/2014
46,309 mi
- Maintenance inspection completed
- Brakes checked
09/12/2014
45,591 mi
- Exterior light bulb(s) replaced
03/06/2014
37,056 mi
New York Inspection Station
- Passed safety inspection
- Emissions inspection performed
- View what was inspected
03/06/2014
37,054 mi
- Maintenance inspection completed
- 30,000 mile service performed
- Brakes checked
- Emissions or safety inspection performed
08/07/2013
26,519 mi
- Maintenance inspection completed
- Brakes checked
- Oil and filter changed
04/15/2013
18,269 mi
- 15,000 mile service performed
- Emissions or safety inspection performed
04/15/2013
New York Inspection Station
- Passed safety inspection
- Emissions inspection performed
- View what was inspected
01/31/2013
14,089 mi
- Electrical system checked
01/09/2013
13,202 mi
- Electrical system checked
11/02/2012
10,453 mi
- Oil and filter changed
- Tire condition and pressure checked
- Tires rotated
10/17/2012
New York
- Registration issued or renewed
- Titled or registered as
- personal vehicle
- Passed safety inspection
09/13/2012
New York
- Registration issued or renewed
- Correction to record
- Titled or registered as
- personal vehicle
- Passed safety inspection
07/11/2012
3,868 mi
- Oil and filter changed
04/30/2012
11 mi
New York Inspection Station
- Dealer had vehicle inspected to
- prepare it for sale
- Passed safety inspection
- Emissions inspection performed
- View what was inspected
04/30/2012
10 mi
- Pre-delivery inspection completed
- Undercoating/rustproofing applied
- Washed/detailed
- Emissions or safety inspection performed
04/30/2012
New York
- Registration issued or renewed
- Titled or registered as
- personal vehicle
- Passed safety inspection
- Maintenance inspection completed
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I never got a restock email after my first refund. I simply placed another order a week later and I got lucky.
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The one you listed is the type that bolts on to your license plate. I find that style less visually appealing than the smaller ones that bolt underneath the area above the license place. For example, this one looks just like the one on my outback:
To answer your question, yes the one you listed will work.
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Subbed for future reference. Nice walkthrough!
Thanks!
A few things I've learned since I wrote this:
Use a dremel (or similar) to cut a small notch in the license plate bulb black plastic area to give clearance for the backup camera cable. You don't want to pinch the video and power feed in that spot because vibration will cause the cable to chafe and eventually fail. I made this mistake and noticed it when I replaced my failed backup cam.
The Nav screen works OK for the backup screen, but I much prefer the displays that are embedded in the rearview mirror. In my 09 Outback, I installed a Gentex rear view mirror from the 10-12 Legacy/Outback with the embedded video display. It's much brighter in direct sunlight light and overall crisper than the 4th gen Subaru Nav screen.http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160912/6ab4a0d83f5dd072962e785d3491dba8.jpg
what did you hicksta today ?
in Fourth Generation Legacy (2005 - 2009)
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He was def a good guy, though. Was quite a legend around here.
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