Paul1017

They're a bit short for USDM wagons, as you say, but fit perfectly on USDM sedans. GLWS!

I'm been getting the airbag light 80% of the time in the past couple months. This weekend I took the overhead panel apart and soldered the little board back together. No light this morning on the way to work!

 

Edit: I snapped a few pictures while fixing mine, for anyone who worries this repair is beyond them.

 

1. Remove the map light cover (pry on the sides with your finger nails)

2. Remove the two philips screws holding the panel to the roof.

3. Remove the panel (it has 3 prongs that hold it against the headliner on the front edge)

 

4. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v252/crazy_pilot/2008%20Legacy%20Spec%20B/IMG_1214-1.jpg

 

5. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v252/crazy_pilot/2008%20Legacy%20Spec%20B/IMG_1213.jpg

 

6. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v252/crazy_pilot/2008%20Legacy%20Spec%20B/IMG_1210.jpg

 

7. Re-solder any other components you feel like. I did D1, R1 (the 511 guy), and all the resistors on the other side.

 

8. Put back together!

 

You don't need much experience soldering to take care of this, I've only done it a few times myself. Let the iron heat up, melt a decent amount of solder onto the tip, shake/tap to remove the excess, and then place the tip against the joint you want to fix. Once the board heats up enough the solder will flow down. I basically filled the corners with a nice little dot of solder on each one.

 

Second edit: I'm sorry if that last picture is sideways, Photobucket shows it straight and then upside down if I use the "rotate" function. Meh.

 

 

This did the trick for me!

No posts here for awhile, but I'd like get some more info added (as if there isn't enough already).

 

I have found limited info in the thread from users who have just cut out the bottom of a gasket instead of using the washers. Does anyone have info/experiences to share on how this compares to the washers or a quieter aftermarket muffler?

 

That's what I ended up doing, but I also went with two gaskets per side. It was harder to cut than I thought it would be because of the metal ring in the center, but worth the effort to reduce the risk of bending the flanges. Sounds more aggressive, but I don't think it's too loud. Not sure where this would fall compared to washers in terms of noise.

 

Saving up for a CBE now since I do like the extra rumble, but don't like the soot darkening the flanges. Also, when I have the seats folded down, I can hear a whistling/whooshing sound at WOT on the highway.

Could be 1psi difference because the spec.B rear diff is heavier. Not sure why the lower pressure though. Could be the RE050 has stiffer side walls than the RE92

#1) What tire are you offering for review (size, model, type (summer, A/s, winter, race, etc), price paid, miles driven on tires, etc):

235/40/18 Michelin Pilot Super Sport, Max Performance Summer, $180 each, $70 rebate on a set of 4, less than 1000mi so far

 

#2) What is your geographic location:

Houston, TX

 

#3) What types of driving events if any (Track, AutoX, Commute , etc):

Spirited commute

 

#4) Percent of highway vs. city driving:

70/30

 

#5) Tires used previously:

Toyo Proxes 4, Bridgestone Potenza RE760Sport

 

#6) Your review and personal comments (Dry, wet, and snow, if applicable. Also, please compare to other tires used):

Incredible dry grip and traction. I can go around a roundabout at 40-45mph, compared to about 30-35 on the RE760s, and get on full throttle a lot earlier on any corner. Car feels a lot lighter and more responsive.

 

Have only driven on the highway in the rain, so not much info there yet. Was very stable even up to 80mph.

 

The tire shop filled it to about 32 psi all around. I tried running 35F/43R for a bit, but the ride got pretty hard. Back down to 33/32 for now (as recommended by the driver door sticker). Ride quality is a lot like a 911 C2S I got to drive a while back. Firm, but not harsh.

Wheel brand/model: Rota Gravel Hypersilver

Wheel height/width: 18x8.0

Wheel offset: +48

Clear Brembos: Yes

Tire size: 235/40/18 Michelin Pilot Super Sport

Camber F/R: Factory specs. Will post more once I add more negative camber

Modified Guards: No

Miscellaneous Suspension: Pink wagon springs, Bilstein HD.

 

 

 

Rota Gravels 18x8+48, 235/40R18 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pink wagon springs, Bilstein HD.

I'll take more pics after getting an alignment to dial in more negative front camber. These were taken at factory settings.

 

 

 

Have: 07 spec.B winged trunk (DGM) + $100

Want: DGM wingless trunk (with lip spoiler is ok)

 

Location: Houston, TX

Ended up doing an 8ga solid copper wire only on the driver's side. Sorry for the crappy drawing, but it should give the idea of my set up. It's actually pretty subtle. Sounds pretty much like stock, but with a little more bass and rumble. Wife couldn't tell the difference in sound when inside the car. Might go ahead and do the passenger side too and see how I like that

Anyone who did just one washer per bolt on only one side of the exhaust care to upload a video?

Want to keep it subtle, so only one washer per bolt instead of two, and only on one side. Just wondering if there's any difference between doing the passenger or driver side. Hoping to eventually move to the Legacy STI quad tip mufflers, but this will have to do for the time being.

I've been thinking about doing just one washer on the driver's side, to get just a little bit more volume. Any difference between doing just passenger vs driver side?

Thanks! Don't have a tape measure at the moment, but I'll try to borrow one and measure ground clearance. What do you mean by front and side fascias?

I pretty much agree with what others have said about the pink springs. Ride quality is not too harsh and handling feels a lot tighter with less roll, squat, and dive. There is still some body roll during very hard cornering, so I might upgrade by rear sway bar, too. My buddy here recommends the Whiteline roll center correction kit, which I'll probably do also. I do recommend getting the wagon springs (part # ends in 1010 front and back) for even fenderwell gaps all around.

 

This is my first mod to any car, so I can't really compare to other brands of springs, but I'm very happy with these. Want to stay OEM with this car, so didn't really have any alternatives, haha.

Here are the before and after pictures:

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/165590_10100367942023155_12437060_61506737_3832362_n.jpg

 

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/217047_10100641985537755_12437060_63282356_7024018_n.jpg

 

Edit: More pictures here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3360953&postcount=20

I'll hopefully have time Thursday to get some pics taken and uploaded. Sorry for the wait

Finished installing last night. Front fenders went from a 4 finger gap to 2 finger gap. Rear fenders weren't really affected. Something like 2 finger gap to just a bit less than 2, maybe 1.5 finger gap. Pretty happy with it! Getting an alignment today, then hopefully getting some pictures soon

My pink springs arrived from Japanparts a week or so ago. Ordered the wagon MT springs front and back

 

Front: ST2033021010

Rear: ST2038021010

 

Two orange paint dabs on each spring. I know they sometimes mess up orders for these, so can anyone confirm that the orange paint dabs match up with these part numbers?

 

I'll be posting before and after pics, so it would be good to have accurate part numbers in the post for anyone interested in installing pink springs sometime in the future.