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TheOneDoubleN

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Posts posted by TheOneDoubleN

  1. Neither of those are going to solve your "losing contact with the ground" issue over a hole, that's a damping problem which can only be solved by, replacing your dampers with something like Bilsteins (which are still not yet in production).

     

    That being said, a RSB makes a big difference on these cars. You can also use a 19mm STI RSB and save about $100. A front strut tower brace is ok, GT Spec is another option, Whiteline is good too, neither are going to make much of a noticeable difference (although that being said, I've usually ended up putting front strut tower bars on my cars because it's a cheap 5min mod that makes the SLIGHTEST of differences in initial turn in response).

  2. when you say the rate is 10% less does that mean the RCE's are firmer? I think i understand that even though you end up lowering your car a little you actually increase your ground clearance because the firmer springs dont allow the same amount of travel at lower speeds or need greater force to fully compress?

     

    Yeah ive never seen the RSB available on their site for the last 6 months.

     

    Yes and yes

  3. Well, there are a number of places I drive where the entrance to the parking area is very steep - I've already scraped the bottom of the bumper once, and would care not to do it again - taking an inch away from my road clearance would be bad news... (also don't want to have to take extraordinary measures to prevent scraping on things)

     

    This again...... :rolleyes:

     

    http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/official-5th-generation-suspension-thread-163275.html?p=3428184

     

    Here, read page 4 of this thread regarding actual ground clearance vs oem.

     

    If you're already having issues scraping with the stock suspension you may want to slow down.

  4. you need to lift the engine for the front swaybar, not front strut tower brace.

     

    The strut tower brace shouldnt take very long to install with simple hand tools.

     

    I still don't feel that a strut tower brace is worthwhile on these cars though...

     

    I noticed a very small improvement in turn-in responsiveness with the strut tower bar, but that's about it. To me it's worth the $150 though, even if it is just a small improvement in handling, especially when I'm shelling out the same $150 per tire anyway, which last me maybe 10,000mi if I don't totally thrash them in the canyons.

  5. Advice Needed!

     

    I just picked up my 2010 LGT on Tuesday and drove it 1600 miles to my home in the west. Tremendous highway car stock, but a quick drive on my favorite twisties tells me some suspension work is needed.

     

    Here are my requirements. I'm moving to a small town where it snows and there are lots of dirt roads, so I don't want to lose much height. I just want to reduce body roll and float. And money is definitely an issue.

     

    My thought is to start with a rear anti sway bar and front strut tower brace. I'd like some advice on brands. I read here that changing the front brace requres lifting the engine...I'd like to avoid that expense.

     

    If that is not enough, I'd probably swap springs. I'd like input on which ones are good that don't give a severe drop.

     

    I'd only swap out the struts if the stock ones don't work with the springs.

     

    I love this site. I used to lurk here in '05 when my wife OBXT 5speed was new. She's 62, and loves blowing Mustang GT's off the line in her station wagon!.I just sold my BMW M3, so I am used to a great handling car. All your help will be appreciated.

     

    My current setup:

    RCE "Functional" Lowering Springs (0.75" drop F&R)

    19mm 2010 Subaru STI RSB (stock is 16mm), $75 for the bar w/ bushings

    GT SPEC Front strut tower bar

    Pirelli PZero Nero M+S tires (36f 34r)

     

    IMHO, this is one of the best setups if you want to improve handling while actually improving ride quality at the same time. This is not a super aggressive setup, it is meant to be a daily driver in LA, but also meant to be driven like a maniac in the malibu canyons on the weekend. The springs are tuned to work with the stock struts (and they do so quite well). This is how the LGT should have come from the factory IMO.

  6. I wish I can explain the comparisons and their past relationship regarding the 2 said companies, but since I don't represent Swift, I can only be nice and express my personal opinions. :) About RCE's black springs for 5th gen, they do have a nice market for those who wants an improvement while keeping more stock-like clearance.

     

    For moderate drop with 2 finger gap F&R, Swift would be a great choice. I understand it may not be the more appropriate drop for all, but it would great for most and believe me when I say that their springs are very well engineered/tested while working with data acquired from Subaru's engineers. Swift's manufacturing/quality control are also very strict. For example, if the spring-ends wind up to +/- 1mm, it is not good enough and they won't even ship it.

     

    Swift's aftermarket business is only about 10% while the rest is all focused on various racing industries throughout the world, so you'd never see them in the forums. But from what I know and in my opinion, I know they test/analysis all competitor's products and has tons of data about them. Swift uses a superior material that allows very consistent data on the dyno. It produce fast coil response, less unsprung mass, and it does not have the break-in sag. To be honest, if Swift didn't make springs for us, I would definitely have gone with KW-V3 and swap out the springs to Swift, but that'd be too much $$$ for a dd.

     

    Are you sure you don't represent Swift? :lol:

  7. Same here, I bottomed out hard twice at this spot right after exiting the fwy near my place on the OEM springs. I purposely drove over it after getting Swifts and it was smooth. I braced for it right before and my face was like :icon_neut, then afterwards, it was :).

     

    Yeah, the OEM springs are just way, way too soft. I think that's why now with the RCE's the car feels so much more planted, because it's not pogo-sticking and bouncing all over the place, or rising and falling like a ship at sea. Did I mention I get sea-sick easily? :rolleyes:

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