amirz

The screw is a good idea, but, keep in mind that the motor housing has to be sealed tight against water and/or moister. I recommend to use both a screw and a glue or silicone on the housing edge and on the screw.

Excellent, did you find the exact motor or did you had to manipulate it ?

Hi crzcar,

 

The 6mm dia rod will slide out once you verify that you have removed ALL of the screws connecting the motor unit AND detach the dual V shape arm from it's location.

Hi chrisay,

 

I have also made the modification you have mentioned and it works perfectly, however, i have used the new motor shell since the magnets there fells to be stronger, and i had a problem closing up the original motors.

 

In any case i send a quote to the guy that sold me the motors on ebay, since he is selling a replacement motor, can he sell ones without the shafts since we are using the original ones.

 

P.S. can i use some of your photo's to share on our local Subaru forums ? (of course you will get the credits).

 

Thanks.

I don't think that the Mabuchi motors are the main problem, the motors are installed in vast variety of car manufactures. I'm guessing that the shit load of grease which entered to the motor shorten it's life. I'm looking for a seller who ship international cause some of eBay sellers only ship in the US only.

Even better, found it on ebay.. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MABUCHI-FC-280SC-20150-DOOR-LOCK-MOTOR-REPAIR-ACTUATOR-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1c1648c341QQitemZ120632951617QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Hi teK..

 

Found the company which produced that motor . i have looked over the specs http://www.mabuchi-motor.co.jp/en_US/cat_files/fc_280pcsc.pdf . I will try to send a quote to them, not sure they deal with small amount.

 

Amir.

Thanks to Chrisay's suggestion I opened mine up today and repaired successfully. The motor is in a sealed plastic case which can be fairly easiy split open by running a craft knife along the seam.

 

It's a poor design on Subaru's behalf. Motor sits at the bottom of the case where molten grease collects (and there is a LOT of it). Hopefully with all the excess cleaned out now I am good for another 6 years.

 

I wrote up a DIY:

 

http://forum.liberty.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=10479

 

Hi teK.. Thanks for this excellent DIY, i follow it step by step and indeed my motor was greased like hell. clean it as you specified and reassemble.. unfortunately i think it was already too much for the motor.. it does not have the power to rotate the spring cogwheel. You were right by stating "poor design". why the hell they installed this strong spring, when it's purpose it only to return the cogwheel to it's starting position. my guess is that what's "killing" the motors. I'm thinking of taking the motor to a shop for re-wrapping.

Here is an online store that sale an OEM actuator:

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=214857&Sectionids=0,2763&groupid=51895&subgroupid=2378&componentid=&make=32&model=Legacy&year=2006&graphicID=7523635&callout=12&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0

 

It's pricey, and i don't want to be on the same situation again. So i was wondering if a standard actuator can be inserted in the door and can make the same job, cheeper and more reliable.

I'm afraid i have the same problem, it appear that the motor is too week to pull the cable. I took off the door cover and checked the cables and also noticed grease on the actuator unit. The unit seemed to be sealed tight, did you clean it from the outside or were you able to open it ?

I have the same problem with the rear door door lock actuators on Legacy 2006, the rear left door is not working at all, and the rear right door actuator sometimes lcoks the door.

 

I have noticed that the rear right door actuator sometimes move only half of the way, so pressing the central locking system twice does the locking.

 

It appear that the actuators are working on both doors cause i'm hearing the sound of them moving and sometimes it's sound like they are missing couple of notch's on the weel.

 

A friend of mine told me to check for the resistance on the cable pushing the locker, it might be the issue.