trevorno

Well now I am freaked out! 

I get a shuddering sound and vibration when turning the steering wheel. It happens when I'm stationary or moving. I replaced the return hose o-ring already, which helped with the ps whining sound, but I still get this shudder/slight vibration. Plenty of fluid and I've done a couple of locked turns in either direction.  I've just ordered a new return hose.

The car is an 09 Legacy AT with 140K miles. I bought it 1.5 years ago. 

What should I look at?

The pretty red arrow is pointing to a digital voltmeter i just installed. it is blue, but considering its so bright out, it isnt showing.

http://imageshack.us/a/img21/9891/x38f.jpg

Looks like you are going Back...to the future...

I took the SS on a little 300 mile road trip. It's a fun cruiser and performed flawlessly. AC compressor doesn't work at all now and it was 95 out but not too hot with the windows rolled down.

 

Trevorno, sorry to hear you had to sell it. 20 year old cars can be a constant pain.

 

Thanks Monkey. Lesson learned not to buy a non running car sitting for 9 years. One thing after another. The wife was the happiest to see it go.

Sold my SS. Little sad but its been more of a headache than its worth.

Pulled the last trim piece needed from the 'yard. I caved today and took it to the mechanic to address the CEL and AC issue.

I pulled a few misc trim pieces from the pull n save. I replaced the knock sensor, but still have the cel code 22. Looks like maybe a wiring issue, which i am not looking forward to attacking. I was going to fix my non-functional ac, but I think I'm going to sell the '94 instead.

^are you sure it isn't a power steering pump leak?

 

No, could be that to. I'll keep an eye on it. I also reset the ECU. Now I've got a knock sensor CEL. Always something new I guess.

Found oil puddling on top of the passenger side of the block. I had my SS for sale at the time. A self proclaimed "subaru guy" showed up and declared the block had cracked... HUH! He then said he could make me an offer. No thanks. I did some research on BBS and thought I'd try re-sealing the oil pressure sensor. I pulled the alternator off and teflon taped the threads on the sensor. I then saw the crankcase breather hose had become loose on the fitting on the block. It was still somewhat attached but the hose end had stretched and didn't fit tight. It was pointing toward my new oil puddle. I put a new hose on it with a screw down clamp for good measure. I degreased everything and sprayed off the engine at the car wash. Now to drive it for a bit and make sure my puddle doesnt reappear. Also need to head to the junkyard for a new hood latch and some interior trim pieces.

Put in a new CV axle today. The old one about disintegrated when I pulled the hub out. No more clickety-clacking.

Got the dash all put in today.

I (almost) got the dashboard pulled off. The previous owner had someone steal his car stereo with an axe. I pulled one from a TW a few months back. I ran into a few stubborn electrical connectors under the dash and ran out of patience. My plan is to get it all swapped over tomorrow.

Replaced the broken turbo resonator with a spectre intake pipe, 3" to 2.5" reducer, vacuum line fittings, and jb plastic weld. Also replaced the ailing turbo coolant hose with a new one. Now, to get the new dash put in.

I fixed a coolant leak to the turbo by using hose clamps instead of the spring clips. I also cleaned the MAF and found the glue I used to attach one of the plastic nipples to the air box had come loose and had a leak. I was pinched for time, so I used some 5 min epoxy to put it back together. I need to gather some courage and do the coffee cup mod.

 

I went to the Junkyard and got some extra screws for the air box. I epoxied one of the nuts in place to the back of it. I also discovered the earlier mentioned nipple fix had failed so I tried it again with more epoxy. I also found some bolts to secure the bottom of the back seat and screws for my license plates.

So, the cam was seized in the bolt-on collar on the front of the head. I pulled it off, took it back to the machine shop, where it was re-honed and liberally lubed before installation. Got it back on and started the car. Drove it about 10 miles before it seized again. Not in the collar this time, but somewhere in the head itself. I can turn it very slowly, but something is jammed up. So back it goes. Wondering if I need a new cam altogether?

 

It also ripped the cogged roller out of the water pump and chewed the timing belt. Good times.

Walked by the '94 SS sitting dead in the driveway in disgust... almost kicked it. Hopefully I'll get the head into the mechanic on Monday.

Thanks Monkey. Pulled the covers off today and the driver's side cam has all-but-seized. I can turn it very slowly with a wrench. I need to call the shop that rebuilt them. I'm hoping I can get that head off without pulling the motor again. Yikes.

I superglued the plastic nipple back on the purge valve, same treatment to the nipple on the large airbox between the filter box and the manifold. Looks like it's holding so far. Got everything back together and fired it up! Ran great for 10 seconds before it banged to a stop. Sounds like the timing belt slipped. I turned the crank with a wrench and could feel the teeth on the crankshaft hopping over the belt. I'll try to pull it apart tomorrow and see what's what. I hope my newly rebuilt heads havent seized.

Installed new exhaust gaskets in the lateral pipe across the bottom of the motor ($25 each at the stealership). Then noticed one of the sensor plastic connectors broke off of the wire. Awesome.

Pulled the motor from the '94 SS today. I ended up tearing apart the exhaust heat shield on the driver's side like an old tin can. The bolts were all rusted and fused together. My brother in law was helping me and discovered when I put the timing belt on, I had left the pin in the tensioner. I've only driven about 300 miles, but lucky for me I guess. I pulled the heads off and found a little bit of milky in the risidual oil left in the block. A lot of corrosion on the head bolts too. There was a ton of oozed oil on the back of the motor from the separator plate. Kind of a pain to tackle it all, but it'll be worth it when its done.

anyone know why someone would disconnect the hill holder? I was cruzin down the block one day when all of a sudden no go?? popped the hood at the light and noticed it wasnt connected turned it the other way and drove away. tied it off with some tie wire and it seems to be fine. looks like everything is there but disconnected.why why why??

 

Some of us appreciate the challenge of using a clutch and right foot braking like real men... Just kidding. I ended up leaving mine disconnected after I put my motor in. The hours spent getting my clutch cable threaded and re-connected relieved me of all my patience and ability to work in cramped spaces. That, and I am a real man...

Pulled a used dash board to replace mine (car prowler ripped the old one apart stealing the stereo). I didn't realize when I started that I needed the whole frickin' dashboard. I also had a mechanic listen to my tick who confirmed its an HLA. That's a big load off my mind. Now to summon the courage to tackle replacing the dash.

Put vacuum lines in, vacuumed out 9 years worth of crud, took off the car phone antenna (yes car phone), stripped out a bunch of old speaker wire. I drove it around town to warm it up, then got it passed emissions testing! I'll get it registered and insured tomorrow.

My bro in law and I replaced purge canister solenoid (relocated to intake manifold), both temp sensors, and fiddled with door glass. I've got to put the new longer vacuum lines in today, hopefully no more 35 CEL.

FIRED IT UP! Got the alternator tensioner bracket on. Found a matching (almost) rear door from a wagon to replace my dented one. I bolted it on and it looks like the window is different. I'll be swapping window, door handle, and glass soon. I drove it around the block a few times. Seems in pretty good shape. Not bad for sitting for 9 years.