LegacyGTurbo

I was using mobile1 5w30 and saw on here that it wasn't recommended.

Thanks for the recommendation

Sorry for asking this question but what oil would you recommend now that I'm installing a 16G TDO5 BNR turbo with the Imfamous oil line.

I tried to search for the recommended oil thread on here but wasn't able to find anything. If you can just link me to the thread that'll be fine too.

Thanks again

So i received my turbo from BNR today as well as my Oil lines from Imfamous Performance. Thanks guys!

So anyway, as far as the gaskets between the turbos, i'd assume i'll be needing new gaskets as well right?

And I also assume that I can use the stock gaskets too? Can somebody confirm that please? And again, i do apologize as i am a newbie. Thanks for all the help and knowledge. This is quite a learning experience.

Thanks!

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q174/truthyaj/Subaru%20Legacy%20Issues/IMG_2496_zps737ad25c.jpg

I think part of it is that Bryan has been blaming turbo failures on oil starvation due to failed OCVs. You might want to take it up with him.

Yea, i called and talked to Bryan about it and he suggested that i get a brand new OCV as well.

But he did suggest that I buy an oil supply line from Imfamous

well you guys ARE the expert here right? haha

And FYI - If you took it extremely easy on that 1 hour ride you MAY be OK....

 

My 1st Turbo went south in NJ and I drove it back to CT without ever boosting more than 2 PSI and there were no engine issues.... 2nd the car was shut down immediately....

 

But you definitely need to at least pull the oil pan and inspect for metal shavings (at a minimum)

 

And I feel like my saving grace is that I run Amsoil, there's less risk if you are running a good synthetic:p

 

It's really car/case specific if the Turbo takes out the engine, but there is some hope:redface:

Yea i wasn't driving it really hard on the way back home. It was a winter storm in the middle of April!!!!!! hahaha

So i took it really slow because of the weather. I drove back at 35-40mph or even slower to get home. There was no boost what-so-ever.

Just curious, how would I know if it was a blown head gasket or not?

15 gallon oil flush? did you mean 15 quart flush?

hahha... wow that's a lot of Oil to put in. Can the engine even hold that much oil? haha....

Speaking of the Banjo bolt... i just pulled it out and this is what it looks like. Do you guys think this is clean or should i replace it anyway?

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q174/truthyaj/Subaru%20Legacy%20Issues/banjobolt1_zpscef06939.jpg

I called and talked to Bryan at BNR and she said that i should replace the OCV. But here ya said

Pull the OCV's and clean them.

You could theoretically drop the oil pan and check whether there are any shavings in there. Maybe take off the valve covers and check for scoring on the cams too. Neither one of those is an easy task, though, and if not put back together right, will result in oil leaks.

 

Also, make sure you clean the OCVs (on top of the heads at the front corners of the engine) and remove the banjo bolt filter.

I'm assume dropping the oil pan and check for any shavings in there would be the easiest of the 3 huh.

An HOUR? Good luck with that. Start saving for a rebuild.

Ok so i should haven't have done that. My bad. But How do i check it to make sure it's still good before i install the new turbo?

The stock oil line does not flow enough oil to properly lubricate the MHI CHRAs that BNR uses.

 

 

 

As I said, there are less-expensive options. E-tune with open-source is the least expensive at $175, but requires a bit of technical aptitude, and a laptop with a working battery, and a fair amount of time. The $800-1200 is for a dyno tune with a Cobb AP.

 

 

 

I think this is the site I was thinking of:

 

http://www.6starspeed.com/reihivftusul.html

 

 

 

 

If your turbo blew, don't forget to replace the oil cooler (the piece the oil filter screws onto). Also, did you drive on the blown turbo at all? If so, you may want to start setting aside funds for an engine rebuild (although engine failure is not guaranteed if you didn't drive on it more than a few miles).

Unfortunately i did drive it but it wasn't too long and too far. I'd say i probably drove it for about an hour. I was lucky i made it home safely. But i'm not sure what the condition of the engine is as of right now. How do i check it to make sure it's still good before i install the new turbo?

I was able to start and run the engine the next day so I'm hoping that the engine is still ok.

I was able to safely remove the turbo and was able to start the engine just to check. I didn't run it long though. Just for a few seconds just to see how it sounded like.

I think this is the site I was thinking of:

 

http://www.6starspeed.com/reihivftusul.html

I just called them and they only service Non Broken turbo Shafts. And they do not have any remanufactured VF40/46s available.

If your turbo blew, don't forget to replace the oil cooler (the piece the oil filter screws onto).

how do i replace that?

There will be more questions to come along so please be patient with me.

But so far, I appreciate all the information so far.

Thank You

You're going from the frying pan to the fire here. Here are your options, in increasing order of cost:

 

1. Rebuilt VF40. You can get one with a 0 mile CHRA from someone out west, but I don't remember who off the top of my head.

2. VF52. Stock turbo in the 09+ WRX. Requires the tune, but not the oil line. This can actually be more expensive than 3 if you get a new one ($1100).

3. 16G (BNR or otherwise). Uses stock housing and stock fueling. Requires tune and oil line.

4. Bigger stock housing turbo (e.g. BNR 18G, BNR 20G, BNR HTA68). Requires injectors, fuel pump, probably exhaust mods and intercooler to do it right, tune, oil line, etc.

5. The turbo you posted. Requires high-dollar exhaust parts, high-dollar rotated intake, custom FMIC, etc. as well as everything listed above.

6. Bigger rotated turbo. Same deal as 5, but more power.

Hmm then where and how can i get a rebuilt VF40 with ZERO miles on it? I hope it's not gonna cost an arm and leg hahaha....

Like i posted earlier, found a USED VF46 for $350 but it's a risk not knowing what the previous user has done with it.

With that said, something tells me that i SHOULD buy a New or Rebuilt/Remanufactured turbo charger that will bolt up easily w/o any further Modifications. I just want to get back on the road again so that i don't have to rely on public transportation. hahaha

Oil line is $175. Tune could be as low as $175 or as high as $1200, depending on how you do it. The easiest way is to get a dyno tune with a Cobb AccessPort -- that's the $1200 option (although it is possible to do it for $800ish, depending on the kind of deals you can score). The cheapest way is to use your own laptop and a VAG-COM cable off eBay to do an e-tune with someone like Infamous1 or Cryo, but if you say you are not a "tech head," that may not be the best option.

I probably have missed this part somewhere while reading.... but why would i need a new oil line? Can't i just use the old one?

And it's about $800 just to do a stock tune? Seriously?

I was thinking it was a swap turbo for turbo and get back on the road.

Will This turbo work for my Wagon to replace my VF40?

Source Link: http://www.fastwayracer.com/Forced-Induction-Turbo-Chargers/c1_2/p2637/Universal-GT2876R-Turbo-Charger/product_info.html

Specs:

Brand new GT2876R turbo charger.Max up to 480HP.

Inlet: 4.0 Inch.

Outlet: 2.5 Inch.

Turbine Flange: T25 Flange.

Downpipe Flange: T25 5 Bolts Flange.

Type of Bearing: Wet Float Bearings.

Cooling Type: Water and oil cooled only.

Exhaust Trim: .86AR.

Turbine Wheel Diameter: 46.75MM/53.80MM.

Compressor Trim: .70AR.

Compressor Wheel Diameter: 57.89MM/72.95MM.

Instruction is not included. Professional installation is highly recommended!

Item exactly the same as picture shown.

http://www.fastwayracer.com/images/TC-GT2876R.jpg

Which one of these turbos will be a good stock OEM replacement for my VF40?

http://www.fastwayracer.com/Forced-Induction-Turbo-Chargers/c1_2/index.html

And yes, I already saw this thread. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/bolt-up-turbocharger-upgrade-vol-1-closed-119177.html

But it doesn't give me any other options besides BNR turbos.

Any suggestions besides BNR turbos that would bolt up directly w/o any further upgrades?

You will need an oil line and a tune for the 16G too. Keep those expenses in mind.

How much is that gonna cost?

Sorry guys, i'm not so much of a Tech Head like some of you guys are. I'm just a average joe with a Subaru Wagon with a turbo charger. I'm not into all these crazy upgrades that you guys do so i do apologize if Im such a NOOB.

My turbo blew so I'm contemplating between getting a used VF46 or a brand new entry level BNR EVO 16G/TD05H.

(Thinking out-loud)

What advantage and disadvantage would i get if a used turbo versus a brand new turbo?

USED VF46

PRO

- Less expensive / Cheap

- If it doesn't blow up again, then it would be a good buy.

- This guy i know is selling his turbo for $350 for a used VF46. It had about 56K miles on it when he upgraded his turbo. I don't know if that's a good buy or not.

CON

- Don't know the longevity of it. I'm afraid it might blow up again considering turbos seem to blow around that range of miles.

- Don't know if the previous owner abused it or not

- No warranty. As Is

Brand new entry level BNR EVO 16G/TD05H - I'm assuming this will be a direct bolt on replacement of my VF40.

PRO

- Brand new. Nothing to worry about

- Warranty

- upgraded turbo with wastegate actuator

CONS

- $750 - a bit out of my budget but i might have to fork it.

Any thoughts? Help me make a better decision.

Thanks for reading.

Ok type in PW TMIC or a FMIC" in any search engine & you will get your answer.

 

http://images.search.yahoo.com/search/images;_ylt=A0PDoKrlOn9RBSEAcDiLuLkF?p=PW+TMIC+&ei=utf-8&fr=ush-mailn&fr2=sfp-img&y=Search

 

http://images.search.yahoo.com/search/images;_ylt=A0PDoYA4O39RswsAw0GJzbkF?p=Subaru+FMIC&fr=ush-mailn&ei=utf-8&n=30&x=wrt&y=Search

 

Search engine are your friend.

I got it! haha... Front Mount and Top Mount intercoolers

I did a search on it in here but all i got was a bunch of TMIC and FMIC but didn't explain what it was. But yes, i should have done a search on Google instead. haha...

Nope, unless you have a PW TMIC or a FMIC. This will not fit LGT stock TMIC. Plus you'll need new tune at a min. to work right on the car.

 

Read here for info. on turbo upgrade. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/turboi-wiki-twist-178684.html

Sorry for being a NOOB here but what is a "PW TMIC or a FMIC" regarding to? I think TMIC is some kind of inter-cooler.

Can anyone verify that this turbo will replace my VF40 turbo? I think it does but i just wanted to double check that it does. Thanks for looking and i appreciate it much.

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q174/truthyaj/Subaru%20Legacy%20Issues/Screenshot2013-04-29atApr2931510PM_zps8f23e9c9.png

The link to the eBay is this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/160513486717?item=160513486717&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:X:AAQ:MOTORS:1123&vxp=mtr

Can anyone verify that this turbo will replace my VF40 turbo? I think it does but i just wanted to double check that it does. Thanks for looking and i appreciate it much.

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q174/truthyaj/Subaru%20Legacy%20Issues/Screenshot2013-04-29atApr2931510PM_zps8f23e9c9.png

The link to the eBay is this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/160513486717?item=160513486717&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:X:AAQ:MOTORS:1123&vxp=mtr

Btw; does anyone know where the 2nd Banjo bolt is located? I can't seem to find it to replace it. I found the one that is by the turbo but can't seem to find the other one.

thanks

IIRC 26ft.lbs. for all the 14mm bolts & nuts, but I set mine at 30ft.lbs. where I have to use an swivel socket & extension.

 

Mike

Thanks again Mike. I will keep that in mind when putting it all back together.

I'm somewhat mechanically incline but i haven't done enough of it to get it all but this is my first time replacing a turbo with the guidance of this thread.

Thanks for making it available. I will continue to use this thread for references.

Now I do have a question regarding my turbo and engine.

I'm assuming that replacing the turbo and the banjo bolt will get me back and running again.

But my question is, ... is my engine still good?

The aftermath of my situation is a blown turbo. But i'm uncertain if my engine is still good or not.

What i found was that the coolant and the engine oil some how got leaked into the turbo and the intercooler. I also notice that the oil in my engine was gone even though i just changed it. So some how some way the oil is leaked to the turbo system.

I just wanted to make sure that a head gasket problem isn't an issue also.

So prior to installing the new turbo, what step should i take to check the engine before installing the new turbo?

Any ideas and thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

The bolt is the same size as all the other UP & DP bolts (14mm). For removal of that bolt. Use a 3/8" drive-14mm swivel socket & 10" extension to break if free. Then I use a 1/4" drive-14mm swivel socket & 10" extension to remove the bolt. It very tight spot, 1/4" works a lot better for removal.

 

Mike

OMG, thank you so much!! I couldn't have done it without your help. I was able to get it out without a problem. I was able to break loose of the bolt and remove it all in one. Again, thank you much!!

So as i was reading through this thread, i didn't see anyone posting Torque Specs when putting the turbo back together.

With that said, does anyone know what the torque specs are when putting back the turbo?

Dude, i've been trying to think of the answer for you but I can't remember. Is there a bracket you have to remove first, something else in the way?

It's the bolt to the right (looking into the engine from the front) of the banjo bolt that is facing up. It's so cramp in there i dont' know which wires to move to get to it. And i don't even know what size the bolt is.

Look at the arrow here and it's below the arrow.

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q174/truthyaj/Subaru%20Legacy%20Issues/VF40screw_zpsf712ffff.jpg

Things got a bit sketchy here with my pics. I was in a rush to get out of the rain.

 

We need to get back up top in the engine bay. There are three nuts/bolts to be removed to loosen the turbo from the uppipe. The arrow points to the third not shown in the picture.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v334/wcbjr/DSC00451.jpg

Ok how do you take the bolt that's not shown off? i've been trying to get to it for the past hour but was unable to. Please help