jams20

Car was sold outside of forum for $3k.

Price drop

Thanks Boxita. Really enjoying your wagon btw. Hope your BRZ is treating you well!

Price drop.

Year, Make and Model:  2006 Subaru Legacy GT Limited

Color:  Obsidian Black Pearl

Miles: 201,650

Transmission: 5 Speed Manual

Title: Clean

Lien: None

Location: Portland, OR

VIN: 4S3BL676966200037

Seller's email address: mossj01@hotmail.com

Asking Price: $4,500

Selling my sedan that I’ve owned since Jan 2010 w/ 65k miles. Lived its life on the West Coast so no rust, non-smoker car. Only reason I am selling is because I purchased Boxita’s wagon at the end of last year.

 

Engine Upgrades (April 2020, 194k miles– COVID project)

Cylinder Compression at time:

1.       139

2.       130

3.       143

4.       140

BNR 18G Turbo w/ direct oil feed line

Perrin Turbo Inlet

Grimmspeed TMIC

Grimmspeed Boost Solenoid

Grimmspeed Up-pipe

Cobb High Flow Fuel Pump

AEM Adjustable FP Regulator

Cobb XLE BPV

Cobb Catted Downpipe

Cobb Accessport V3

Grimmspeed Turbo Heat Shield

Tuned by PRE in Portland (Dynojet 301 HP, 326 ftlbs on pump gas)

 

Suspension Upgrades

Ohlin Shocks/STI Pink Springs (4/17)

Whiteline Front/Rear Sway Bars (4/17) & End Links (12/22)

AVO Turboworld sway bar reinforcements (12/21)

Refreshed all Front LCA Bushings w/ Whiteline (Oct’22)

 

Aesthetic Updates

Cobb Short Shifter

STI Pedals and Dead Pedal

AVO Turboworld Mesh Grill

STI S402 Trunk Spoiler (have original winged trunk as well…have not transferred badging yet)

Wheel Spacer Front and Rear to make wheels flush w/ fender (2/22)

Jazzy Aux-in update

 

General Maintenance

Oil Changes every 3-4k (last one at 201.3k, 3/23)

Trans/Diff Oil @196k

Power Steering/Radiator Flush @201.3k

Valve Cover Gasket @201.3k

PCV Hose Replacement 201.3k

Oil Seal Replacement between Trans and Drive Shaft

Brake Fluid Flush @199.1k

Accessory Belts @189k (9/19)

Oil Cooler Gasket @193k (2/20)

Tires have 6k miles

Spark Plugs updated during engine work

Timing Belt @139k (12/12)

Starter replaced 125k (1/14)

 

Let me know what other questions you have.

I just took off my passenger side rear door card to find a part number. What i see is 94223AG show up in the upper left (looking at the inside) and again mid-panel on the right side. Do you see the same on your right passenger rear door card?

Interested in rear door cards but need them to be 2005. Let us know the year

I had a similar issue on the car I just bought. Rattling from transmission tunnel when decelerating in any gear until it got below 2k rpm. No noise on acceleration or when in neutral. Turned out to be a loose bolt on the trans crossmember. The long horizontal piece closest to the front of the car. (Needs to be at 103 ft-lbs I believe) Found it by banging it w a rubber mallet. Made a clank of metal on metal. 

Anyone removed this before and can provide insights? I saw a video on Briansmobile1 for a WRX and looks like you remove a-pillar covers then pull up but I am getting a lot of resistance where it is closest to the windshield. Thought I would ask before breaking something. 
 

trying to fix a vibration.

Crossed a milestone recently. Replaced rear main seal to celebrate. Also purchased a wagon. Need to get the sedan ready for sale.

 

4 hours ago, Pleides said:

If you stick with a 5-speed and don't 6-speed swap (the 6-speed without a hard trans mount feels about as nice to drive as the 5-speed with the Group N mount) then I still recommend doing the mount just because of how much better than transmission feels with the mount, but if you absolutely detest cabin noise then you gotta skip it. For me, the tradeoff was worth it but if I had to do it again I'd skip the urethane crossmember and all the other subframe/diff bushings to quiet it down and hopefully have the best of both worlds. 

What exhaust do you have? And do you have a sedan or wagon?

I am a new owner of a wagon. (started w/ a sedan) On it i believe is an OEM sedan exhaust. It terminates a couple inches before the end of the bumper. I have the HKS Silent Hi-Power exhaust for the wagon i mistakenly purchased for the sedan. Looking to install this but apples-oranges when it comes to noise level vs stock. 

Thanks for this! Gives me a check list.

1) check mounts

2) try different exhaust ( current setup is inside lip by a couple inches)

3) cargo Bay insulate

4) doors to make the radio sound better when I turn it up to drown out what doesn’t work

i will keep this updated with results. All others feel free to share as well.

Nice. Thanks!  Exhaust, headers and intake are OEM. Any major culprits on the bushings? All are upgraded. (Ignoring motor, trans and pitch stop - i need to check those)

 

Sound deadening - is trying to get under carpet of the footwells low ROI?

I have a "new" legacy in the family and hoping to crowd source feedback on upgrades folks have made that negatively impacted cabin noise most - road or engine/transmission vibration. Basically looking to take it from a track focused to road focused. What are your experiences?

I'm also looking at the Sound Deadening FAQ.

Looking forward to getting to know the wagon side of the Legacy affliction.

Thanks for the time in prepping the car for the driver and all the background/walkthru. Really appreciate it Boxkita!

I snapped one of my torsion bars and purchased a new set to replace. Unfortunately it's not correct - trunk still slams and won't pop up when unlocked. Seeing if anyone w/ a 4th gen sedan can tell me the orientation of the sway bars or send a pick of where my setup is off.  Pics below of my torsion bars today. 

Thanks in advance!

 

9 hours ago, NORULZleggy said:

just an FYI grimmspeed will not just sell you a silicone coupler, you have to send them proof you own the TMIC, a picture of your car with it on.  I mean I was like take my money. I needed the throttle body hose because I have a small tear in the top part and I think that is the problem with it popping off under boost. Plus I got the kit used off here, and they said parts just get old and warn.

Getting my nameless 3 inch pipes put on, paired with my fujitsubo mufflers. this should sound so good. can't wait.

I had to get a random piece of silicone hose for my air intake. Shop in Portland actually stocked such things.

https://rallitek.com/

I would call and ask to see if they have what you need and if they can ship it. 

Mine does this too randomly. Following this thread.

This is the one I used. I started w a Cobb DP tied to stock exhaust then upgraded to 3” exhaust. Works a charm as long as your current donut gasket is in shape.

You run into fueling and air issues before exhaust becomes a bottleneck. 

You will need a harness or a lot of work on your own. Check out “legacy odds and ends” website. He makes great harnesses for this. I believe you will need a post face.

 

Not sure about compat for your first question though. I have an ‘06.

 

 

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Sti rack is worth every penny.

 

 

+1 favorite non-HP upgrade so far. Very practical

 

 

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I disagree. They should know their capabilities and have guided you elsewhere. If I was a GM of the shop I would want to know what my employees can/can’t do.

 

Take the pics in w your story and give them the opportunity to make it right.

 

 

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Yep, the rings are tired. Cold tests gave 95 PSI and 7% leakdown on all cylinders except #4 at 100 PSI and 4%. Apparently it doesn't know the rules.

Sending a VF40 core off to JmP and will stick to stage 1 until I'm ready to rebuild.

 

 

Education for me. These results look positive no? Isn’t >20% where you have an issue or is the concern cylinder doing its own thing?

 

 

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<jk of course >

 

 

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Great point. Basically an oil change every 3k. 500 miles better than my current interval

 

 

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Thanks for the 101. Is there a general consensus on acceptable oil consumption per 1000 miles? (>1 qt you are in diesel territory)

 

 

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